ALL
satin
ICH Elements 9
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Keste - Kazakh embroidery
Keste - traditional Kazakh hand-made embroidery with colored thread and needles or hooks (biz/ilgek/ilme) and hoop (kergish). A Kazakh word keste means 'a scheme or painting'. Direct analogues of colored woolen threads embroidery are found in artifacts of the Berel burial in East Kazakhstan, dating from the IV. BC. The embroidery is often made on velvet, plush, cloth, felt, velveteen, cotton and silk with woolen, cotton, silky, golden, silver threads and spun gold. Gimp, beads, coral, pearl beads, silver details are frequently applied. There are about 40 kinds of complex and simple Kazakh embroidery: biz keste - tambour embroidery created with a thin awl-hook; tizbek tigis, shyrash tigis, tyshkan iz, kұs izi (a “bird” seam) shynzhyr, shym keste (tight cover seam without gaps), koykusak, kigash, albyr keste (distichous seam) are the names and versions of tambour embroidery with needle; oraypek/oraypa is a kind of albyr keste; kebeke is a seam similar to Russian embroidery on canvas; zhorme, zhormeme, orys keste, aykas tigis is a cross-stitch embroidery; kereghe bas tigis is a “goat” seam. Baspa is a couched hemstitch technique and shyralzhyn is a simple one. A satin stitch with bedding bedel keste creates relief forms. A columnar seam zhormeu makes zigzag weave. The techniques can be used in combination. Embroidered products are made for domestic purposes and various ceremonies, which led to the species diversity. In festive men's and women's clothing: shapans, dresses koylek, flared skirts beldemshe, sleeveless jackets beshpet, hats, scarves oramal; in interior items: tablecloths, korzhyn etc.
Kazakhstan -
Regong arts
Regong Arts mainly refer to Buddhism formative arts such as Thangka, mural, barbola, sculpture on which Tibetan and Tu folk handicraftsmen depend to pass on their making knowledge and manual technical skills. The content of Regong Arts consists of Tibetan Buddhism, mythical stories, epics and traditional knowledge. And the main painting materials include painting cloth, painting brush, dyestuff, prepared Chinese ink, red soil, silk and glue. Thangka, mural, barbola, and sculpture are widely used in Tibetan Buddhism temples and farmers’ or herdsmen’s houses. Every handicraftsman has his own fixed place to make material objects. Regong Arts have originated in 13th century and stemmed mainly from Tibetan Mantang school. After they were introduced into Regong area, Regong Arts have formed an important distinctive school of Tibetan Buddhism arts. Regong Arts have various forms with unique features. 1. Thangka, the pronunciation of its Tibetan counterpart, refers to religious scroll paintings which are used to worship Buddha, myths and figures who invented some useful technology after being mounted with colourful satin. The main technological process of making Thangka is as follows: first, the fine white cloth or coarse linen should be stretched on a wooden embroidery frame; secondly, base powder and thin glue sheet are used at the bottom and polished; thirdly, according to the content, the painter draws an outline with charcoal pencils made by himself about religious figures, birds and beasts and flowers and trees, etc.; fourthly, the painter puts the glue into various natural minerals and animals or plants dyes, and then he uses these painting materials to draw the picture with the special painting brush; finally, the finished picture is mounted carefully. Thangka is famous for its sophisticated workmanship, contents and bright colors in the world. 2. Barbola is a kind of Thangka made from silk fabric. Its main forms are Barbola Thangka, Barbola veiling, Barbola column ornaments etc. It is made from silk and brocade where pictures, figures, animals and plants are accurately cutting and sewn. Its techniques and effects take place in two forms: soft relief which combines folk embroidery and filled relief; and pasted and patched soft fabric which are cut to make different forms. Barbola has the strong stereoscopic image. 3. Regong sculpture comprises clay sculpture in addition to wooden sculpture, stone inscription, brick sculpture etc. Clay sculpture takes place in two forms: multi-colour and single-colour. Its process includes selection and finalization, clay processing, keel structuring, filling in, outline shaping, partial adjustment and inlaying gold lines or colour painting etc. Rafters, vaults, sunk panels, column ornaments, and tubular lections in temples and door curtains, credences, tea tables and lection cabinets in farmers’ or herdsmen’s houses are all sophisticated wooden sculptures. Stone inscription is that lections are imprinted on the slates or figures of Buddha are made in an intaglio plate. In addition, there is relief used in the stack of lection stones. After being created, Regong Arts are passed on generations by generations. Regong Arts are manual skills grasped by some villagers. Based on the special art forms, they combine traditional knowledge with history memory and come the Arts down. The art forms are widely recognized by dwellers in Tibetan communities and traditional craftsmen in China. At present, 520 folk artists engage in the artistic creation of Regong Arts. Passing on the Arts mainly takes place between fathers and children, or between masters and apprentices. Inheritors can be monks or folk artists. When learning Thangka, Barbola or sculpture, the painters must strictly follow the Buddhism painting book Lection of Measurement, starting from line-drawing, figure shaping, colour matching, pattern design and sizing. Regong Arts are featured with the unification of Tibetan Buddhism and traditional culture. Its influence can be found in surrounding provinces such as Tibet, Gansu, Inner Mongolia, Yunnan, Sichuan, and even South-eastern Asian countries.
China 2009 -
Sajik Daeje (National Rite to Gods of Earth and Grain)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea In olden days, it was customary for the founder of a kingdom to hold a sacrificial rite for ancestors and then a rite to the deities of earth and grain, praying for a good harvest. Upon founding the Joseon Dynasty, King Taejo built Jongmyo Shrine to the east of Gyeongbokgung Palace and Sajikdan Altar to the west of the palace to pray for the peace of the people and good harvests. He also erected Sajikan Altars in the provinces. At Sajikdan Altar, mortuary tablets were placed at the north, and altars for deities of earth and grain were placed on the east and the west. A sacrificial rite was held regularly in February and August on the lunar calendar. A rite of praying for rain was held when there was a long spell of drought. Nowadays, the sacrificial rite is held in the following order: Jeonpye (offering silk satin as present), Yeongsillye (greeting the spirits), Choheollye (first obeisance), Aheollye (second obeisance), Jongheollye (last obeisance), Eumbongnye (partaking of sacrificial food), Mangye (burning of ritual paper). Sajik Daeje is an event that features a combination of music, dance, food, robes, and ceremonial utensils used in a formal sacrificial rite. By 1894 (the 31st year of King Gojong’s reign), Sajik Daeje was replaced by a rite named Singwanje. In 1908 (the 2nd year of King Sunjong’s reign), Singwanje was brought to an end. In 1988, Sajik Daeje was restored based on testimony made by the late Yi Eun-pyo, who retained the skill needed for carrying out Jongmyo Jerye (Royal Ancestral Ritual in the Jongmyo Shrine). The rite has since been held by the Sajik Daeje Committee within the Jeonju Yi Clan Association.
South Korea -
Chaesangjang (Bamboo Case Weaving)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea Chaesangjang refers to the skill of making a basket of diverse geometric patterns with thinly cut and colored bamboo skins, or to an artisan with such a skill. Colored bamboo baskets were loved by women at the Royal Court and of the noble class since the ancient period. Toward the late Joseon Period (1392 – 1910), they became popular items even for commoners as necessary articles for marriage. They were chiefly used to contain clothes, accessories, sewing supplies, and precious items. The first thing to do in making a bamboo basket is to peel off the bamboo skin in even thickness. The skin thus peeled is soaked in water and then trimmed, dyed, and spliced. The edges and corners are wrapped with blue or black satin silk. The designs made on the surface of a bamboo basket are mostly letters or patterns associated with propitiousness.
South Korea -
Seokjeon Daeje (National Rite to Confucius)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea This rite is held at Munmyo Shrine. It is also called Munmyo Daeje or Seokjeonje. It is presumed that such a rite was first held during the Goguryeo Period following the Chinese practice. This is based on records showing that Taehak (The National Confucian Academy) was established in 372 (the 2nd year of the reign of King Sosurim of Goguryeo). Seokjeon Daeje is held in February and August every year to honor the scholastic virtues of Confucius and prestigious Confucian scholars. The procedure for the ritual is as follows: Yeongsillye (greeting the spirits), Jeonpyerye (offering silk satin as present), Choheollye (first obeisance), Gongak (playing of music), Aheollye (second obeisance), Jongheollye (last obeisance), Eumbongnye (partaking of sacrificial food), Cheolbyeondu (overturing of ritual dishes), Songsillye (bidding farewell to the spirits), Mangnyo (incineration of prayers). The ritual is carried out to the accompaniment of music (Munmyo Jeryeak), which includes both instrumental and vocal music, and dance. Eight instruments for court music are used and are played by two groups of players (Deunga and Heonga). Seokjeon Daeje is held as a national event in a solemn atmosphere. It has characteristics of comprehensive art that includes music and dance.
South Korea -
Traditional art of needlework
The unforgettable cultural heritage of the nomadic Mongols which has long been developed, transmitted and inherited to our generation is the art of needlework. The art of needlework is a result of the great deal of meticulous labor, delicacy, patience, and perception of intellect, hands and eyes at the same time. Traditional art of needlework consists of general techniques such as sewing, stitching, quilting, sewing with a forward stitch, single or double stitch and hemming stitch, and more than 20 forms of decorative embroideries including chain stitch, double-embroidery stitch, herring-bone stitch, satin stitch and etc.
Mongolia -
Syrmakh - tradition of making felt carpet
Syrmakh (syru means “stitch”) is another iconic wall and floor carpet made in traditional nomadic technique. There are around 20 syrmakh making techniques. To name but a few: akh syrmakh (white rug), oyuly syrmakh (colourful inlay pattern rug), oyistyrylghan/tyor syrmakh (solid color fabric appliqué on a white felt), syru (stitched pattern on felt), zhyiek syrmak (stitched felt rug with borders), kestelyi syrmakh (a felt rug embroidered with satin stitch). A pattern can be stitched to the background using bitpes (hand twisted cord), or zhyiek (hand weaved cord). An artisan can make syrmakh using a combination of techniques. The size of syrmakhs can vary from 1 to 6 meters and consist of 5 parts stitched together (1 bas or central part and 4 khol or borders). An artisan will spend from several weeks up to one year to make one syrmak. Traditional felt making is practiced by the artisans of southern and western Kazakhstan. The Union of Artisans of Kazakhstan revitalises the tradition by conducting trainings and master-classes on felting and its popularisation. Tekemets and syrmakhs are widely used in official celebrations, during holidays, for yurt decorations and in rituals. As well, modern interior and fashion designers use traditional techniques and materials in their work.
Kazakhstan -
Doppidozlik (skullcap embroidery)
Skullcap embroidery was developed among Iranian and Turkic peoples since ancient times. Skullcaps make up part of the national dresses of the peoples of Turkistan, especially of Uzbeks and Tajiks. They differ in terms of form and décor from one place to another. The traditions of their creation are also different. For sewing skullcap a piece of material is cut out from single-colored silk or satin, embroidered by using simple, silk and gold threads. Parts of skullcap, decorated with fancy work, are put on lining and sewed to each other. The edges are decorated with braids. Depending on the style, skullcaps can be quadrangular or cone-shaped. Skullcaps especially are made by women.
Uzbekistan -
Embroidery art
Embroidery is a type of needlework. Beauty of Uzbek embroidery, ancient origins of its patterns and diversity of techniques applied indicate to the fact that this craft has passed a lengthy process of historical development, and has rich traditions. Large-sized decorative embroidery can be divided into several types: suzani (wall-mounted panels; literally - "needle"), nimsuzani (literally - "half of suzani"), ruyidjo, joypush yakkandoz and choyshab (bedspreads and bedsheets), takyanpush (pillow coverlet), oy-palak and gulkorpa (Tashkent versions of suzani), sandalipush (coverlet for sandal), zardevor, dorpech or kirpech (embroidery used for decorating upper parts of walls), joynamoz (prayer rug), bugdjoma (coverlet for blanket), beshikpush (coverlet for cradle), etc. Embroidered items of small size are represented by oyna-khalta and shona-khalta (sacks for keeping mirror and comb), qiyiqcha, miyonband, chorsu and belbogh (versions of men's waist kerchiefs), doppi (skullcap), sarpokkun, qoziqlungi and tanpokkun (long towels with embroidered ends), bugjoma (linen used for wrapping dress), sarandoz and romoli-peshonaband (types of head shawls and headdresses for women), dast romol (handkerchiefs), jiyak (embroidered edges used for decorating certain elements of a dress), etc. Ornamental pattern and composition of embroidery depended on its practical purpose (i.e. for what purposes it was used). Main embroidery motifs are symbols of cosmogonic origin (i.e. sun, moon, stars in the form of large and small rosettes), vegetative and geometric patterns, stylized images of animals and birds. For embroidery of Uzbekistan peculiar is application of distinct technique of sewing, i.e. complete sewing of large surfaces of the pattern, and leaving (relatively) small area for the background. Also, different types of one-sided satin-stitch and chain-stitch are used, which fill motifs of an ornament completely. Satin-stich can be of two types, i.e. "bosma" and "kanda-hayol". There are different types, patterns and traditions of embroidery, depending on their belonging to their respective regions: Bukhara, Fergana, Shakhrisabz, Nurata, Tashkent, Fergana, etc.
Uzbekistan