ALL
traditional costumes
ICH Elements 47
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Falconry, a living human heritage
Falconry is the traditional art and practice of keeping, training and flying falcons to take quarry in its natural state, and has been practised for more than 4000 years. It is one of the oldest relationships between human and bird. It probably evolved in the steppes of Asia, and spread via cultural and trade links to other countries, first to Europe, North Africa and East Asia and later in the 16th century to the rest of the world. The practice of falconry in early and medieval periods of history is documented in many parts of the world. The falcon and her prey have evolved together over millions of years; their interaction is an age-old drama. The falconer’s task is to bring the actors together on nature’s stage. Falconry as intangible cultural heritage is integrated into communities as a social recreational practice and a means of connecting with nature. Originally a way of obtaining food, falconry has acquired other values over the centuries, and is identified with camaraderie, sharing, and expressions of freedom. Nowadays falconry is practised by people of all ages in local communities in more than eighty countries. Falconry expresses itself in multiple cultural domains, in particular ‘social practices, rituals and festive events’, as well as ‘knowledge and practices concerning nature and the universe’. These include traditional skills, traditional knowledge about the biology and behaviour of birds and the environment, the making of traditional falconry equipment, as well as linguistic and artistic expressions found in idioms, painting, sculpture, poetry, rituals and music. Falconry has its own set of culturally-shaped traditions and ethics; while falconers come from different backgrounds, they share universal values, traditions and practices. Falconry is transmitted from generation to generation as a cultural tradition by a variety of means, such as mentoring, learning within families, or formalized training in clubs and schools. The process of transmitting falconry heritage activates not only the historical memory of the falconry community but also enriches its cultural identity. In recent times falconry has seen a renaissance. Falconry provides modern man with links to nature and strengthens local identities. It is an important cultural symbol in many countries. The modern practice of falconry aims at safeguarding not only falcons, quarry, and habitats but also the practice itself as a living cultural tradition.
United Arab Emirates,Austria,Belgium,Czech Republic,Germany,Spain,France,Hungary,Italy,South Korea,Kazakhstan,Morocco,Mongolia,Pakistan,Portugal,Qatar,Saudi Arabia,Syria 2016 -
Tân’tung Da ’dá Dances of the Katu
Tân’tung Da ’dá Dances (earth and sky dance) of the Katu people are community dances of men and women. This is a sacred dance, meaning to pray for good crops and for people to be prosperous and full. Tân’tung is a dance for men during the festivals of buffalo stabbing, grave abandonment, twinning, and victory celebrations. The dancers wear warrior costumes (loincloths, cloaks, scarves on their heads, bird feathers, pig fangs in their hair), holding a shield in their left hand and a spear or javelin in their right hand. The dance movements follow the sound of drums, showing the strength, decisiveness, and flexibility of the warrior. The formation dances in a circle, going counterclockwise or in a closed arc. Da ’dá is a dance reserved for women. Requirements for the dancers of this dance: tiptoe, move with toes, arms spread at shoulder level, elbows perpendicular to the arms, palms facing up, fingers spread out; The body rotates around itself and must join the formation to move counterclockwise. Women wear brocade dresses with many colors and patterns, bare shoulders, and beaded necklaces around their necks. Sometimes, these two dances combine together according to the principle: women and men intertwine, women go first, men go behind; The inner circle is female, and the outer circle is male.
Viet Nam -
Tamzhing Phag-chham: The Boar Mask dance of Tamzhing Monastery
Tamzhing Phag-chham is a solo mask dance with a mask made of a wild boar (Sus scrofa), which is very common on the Asian continent. The term "Phag-chham" sometimes has two different meanings; Phag-chham (tamzhing Phag-chham) and the other, the Phag-chham performed during the Raksha Mangchham (a theatrical mask dance of the Intermediate state). Tamzhing Phag-chham was originally composed by the Great Treasurer Terton Pama Lingpa (1450-1521) on the consecration of the temple Tamzhing Lhundrub Choeling on the 15th day of the Tiger Month (11th month) of the Wood Ox Year, which corresponds to the Gregorian year 1505, in Bumthang, one of the central districts of Bhutan. Later it was performed in other monasteries founded either by Terton himself or by his successors in most of the eastern and central parts of Bhutan. Phag-chham is among the most important and sacred mask dances in Tamzhing, and the festival "Tamzhing Phag-la Chod-pa" is also named after this dance, which is held every year from the 10th to the 12th of the eighth lunar month. It is performed by an amateur and can only be danced by the Chhamjug (the second leader of the mask dancers), who wears a wooden boar mask, exquisite brocade costumes with dangling skirts made of five eye-catching colored cloths, and holds two bundles of willow branches in both hands. The boar mask is considered one of the masterpieces of the founder himself, as are the dance steps themselves. Since the mask is considered sacred, it is received in a Chibdrel (traditional procession) when the dancer comes out of the Chhamkhang (preparation room). The origin of the mask dance lies in local tradition: Pema Lingpa was looking for a suitable place for his temple in the Choekhor valley when he saw a wild boar digging in the ground. He realized that this was a sign from the enlightened being Dorje Phagmo (deity Skt. Vajravarahi) to show him the suitable place. After the temple was built, he held a festival in honor of the patron deities during the inauguration as a symbol of gratitude. Since it is believed that the prophecy and the groundbreaking ceremony for the Tamzhing Temple was led by Dorje Phagmo, the festival is dedicated to her and is called Phagla-Chodpa. On the second day of the festival, Phag-chham leads the ground-breaking ceremony to sanctify the site before more mask dances are performed for the audience. Due to the unexpected loss of the Chham-yig (choreography manuscript) from the monastery many years ago, elders have regretfully found that the Phag-chham performed today no longer contains the complete steps and choreography. Elderly locals says that, at that time, there were more than 14 different types of steps, and due to faulty oral tradition, nearly 50% of the choreographies have been lost. The communities are concerned that without documentation, there is a risk of even more steps being lost and even new ones being added, as many of the artisans are either lay monks or farmers from the affiliated communities.
Bhutan -
Yike Theater of the Khmer
Yike Theater is a typical folk performance art form of the Khmer people. Yike Theater was born in the Ba Sắc region of Sóc Trăng province with the great contributions of his ancestor Lý Cuôn. The theme is exploited from the treasure of Khmer folk literature. The stage and scenery are of the nature of a "gourd stage", and a landscape backdrop (available, can be pulled up and down). Basic dances such as military training, congratulations, good harvest, water invitation... Dance movements are divided into two character lines: the front line has poise and decisive movements (men) and graceful and soft movements (women); The villain line has exaggerated, fierce movements. The choreography has separate rules for different types of characters: people (13), python (02), and animals (01); individual choreography (04) and combat choreography (06). Music: the main musical instruments are strings and percussion, the most important being "trô u" (dip lute); Pinpet (pentatonic) orchestra. Music has its own characteristics, is methodical, has clear patterns and rules, and is used for each subject and character's personality. Songs and melodies: there are a total of 163 songs (tunes, including Lôm songs and Nô kô rek songs), of which 34 are traditional and official songs; The remaining songs are influenced by other art forms. The songs are divided into male and female voices, with specific characters such as hunters, fairies, male, female, and clown roles. The characteristic of Yike singing is that at the end of all the songs, there is a collective chant inside the stage. The art of makeup according to specific regulations shows the character's personality: bold, clear makeup (human - white, pink red; fox - red, black; fairy - blue). This is a combination of art forms from singing, dancing, music, martial arts, costumes, makeup, painting, and cuisine with unique characteristics of the community. Before performing, they worship the ancestors. The game exploits fairy tales and Khmer folk mythology.
Viet Nam -
Lkhon Bassac (Bassac Theatre)
“Bassac Theatre” Originally known as “Treung Khlok” Theatre, it originated in Kampuchea Krom Bassac District, Preah Trapeang Province (now under Vietnamese rule). Bassac troupe originally formed by the chief of Khsach Kandal pagoda (Kampuchea Krom) names of Sour and Lok Ta Cha Krun, as well as his students, Kru Kmoa, Kru Korn, and Kru Khla. During the 1930s, Lok Ta Cha Krun brought the Trung Khlok theatre to perform in Phnom Penh and other provinces along the Bassac River. The theatre also quickly gained popularity in Phnom Penh. At first, it was called "Theatre from Bassac District", then later abbreviated as "Bassac Theatre" and is still named today. Bassac theatre is performed in both speaking and singing and accompanied by the Bassac music. The theater genre is influenced by Chinese and Vietnamese operas. The female characters (princesses or goddesses) dress similarly to the characters in classical dance. The male characters (kings, gods, or giants) dress similarly to the male characters in Chinese or Vietnamese operas. But today, the male characters’ costume is also similar to the costumes of the actors in the classical dance, except that the giant characters still wear the same costume as before. The stage is often decorated with paintings of temples or artificial mountains. Bassac theatre often features artistic legends. Performances include sword fighting, stick fighting, or other martial arts or battle scenes. The songs are both traditional and modern. During the 1960s, the Bassac Theatre gained immense popularity. There were two famous characters that almost all Khmer people at that time knew until he was named the King and the Queen of Bassac, Lok Ta Saing Sarun and Lok Year Chek Mach. Nowadays, Bassac is included in the curriculum of the Secondary School of Fine Arts. Famous Bassac theatre teachers who have passed away, including Lok Ta Saing Sarun, Lok Year Chek Mach, Mrs. Un Wang, Mr. Sous Kanan, Ouk Si Phally, John (Battambang), Tapov, Tork Khmao, Em Samphon and Kru nhoun (Outstanding Tror musician).
Cambodia -
Then Rituals of the Tày
Then means Heaven - Sky, a song passed down by the gods. Then is a cultural activity associated with spiritual rituals, performed to worship Then to pray for peace, relieve drought, bless, wish for the new year, cure illness, or used in ceremonies to pray for good harvests, entering a new house, and granting honor., etc performed by Then masters. Therefore, Then forms a fundamental part of the spiritual life of the Tày and Nùng people in Thai Nguyen province. The person who makes Then must be knowledgeable about customs. Mr. Then and Mrs. Then are always respected in the community. The tune consists of two lines: Then Literature and Then Martial. The music in Then is rich and lyrical and combined with rhythmic and lively Then dance. Then Dance has three forms: Adoration dance, Slương dance, and ritual dance. The decoration of the ceremony table, offerings, honeysuckle... especially the Then hat is a distinctive feature of the Then ceremony in Định Hóa region. Through Then music, the community conveys its wishes for life. Attached to Then is the lute - the Heavenly organ, a bridge between heaven and earth. It can be affirmed that the Then ritual is a special performance environment, preserving traditional cultural values of music, dance, singing, costumes, cuisine, shaping, beliefs, etc.
Viet Nam 2019 -
Khon, masked dance drama in Thailand
Khon is a highly-refined performing art that combines multiple artistic elements: musical, vocal, literary, dance, ritual and handicraft. It may have combined features of ancient genres: court ritual, martial art, and the shadow play. It tells the story of Ramakien – the localized Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Its many episodes depict the life of Rama, his journey in the forest, his love for his wife Sita, his army of monkeys, the fights with the army of Thosakan (Ravana), king of the giants, and his final victory. The dancers wear elaborately embroidered costumes. The giants and monkeys all wear masks that cover their entire head. The colours and shape of each mask are unique to each character. The drama is enacted through dancing, accompanied by a piphat classical xylophone ensemble, singing, and narration. Each major type of characters has a distinct mode of dance expression. The dance postures and movements, the music, and the repertoire have been handed down from generations since the 15th century. The masked dance performances form part of social practices such as royal cremation, cremation of high-ranking persons or revered monks, and celebration of sacred sites and temples. Dancers, musicians, craftsmen and other members of Khon community annually perform a ceremony to honour Khon masters of the past, teachers, and deities. During this ceremony, new members are initiated into the community. Khon performance is continually evolving with new interpretations, and the adoption of modern technology for stagecraft, whilst retaining its traditional intensive dance training and ritual.
Thailand 2018 -
Lkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet
Having originated in bhani, a type of drama, mentioned in at least 10th century inscriptions of Cambodia, Lkhon Khol today is performed by males, wearing masks with the accompaniment of pin peat, a traditional orchestra, and melodious recitation. It performs only episodes from Reamker, a Cambodian version of the Indian Ramayana. Lkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet is distinct from the generic form because its specific aim is to propitiate Neak Ta (guardian spirits of a place and its people; in this case the community of Wat Svay Andet), and in so doing, protect and make prosperous the community, its lands and harvest. When Lkhon Khol is performed especially during a fixed date after the New Year, spirit mediums are presented to facilitate interaction between the Neak Ta, performers and villagers. Spirit mediums, who predict the situation for the upcoming year, attend the performance and become possessed by the Neak Ta and then might get on the stage. When the spirits are satisfied by the performance, villagers are blessed by them, and if not, dancers will stop; the music continues; and the audience will fall silent and carefully listen to the spirits. Then the episode must be performed again. nIn Wat Svay Andet, Lkhon Khol has such spiritual significance in the community that some Reamker characters have become local deities in themselves. For example, on the campus of the monastery, a shrine for Hanuman (Monkey General) locally called Lok Ta Kamheng is built and venerated. The mask for Tos Mok (Ravana, King of the Demons) also lives and is venerated in a spirit house at the home of the family that has danced that role for several generations. In addition to the intrinsic specificity of the Wat Svay Andet form, some external differences are noted, such as the fact that three of the key roles are not masked. In fact their faces are painted white, indicating that they are neither mortals nor gods. The costumes, which are very refined with magnificent embroidery, are also different especially from those of the Battambang Troupe. Melodies for recitations are also different and richer. nLkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet is not performed by professional artists, but by the villagers themselves, and they do not perform for money but for merits and their community’s well-being. Everyone in the community is obliged to contribute, either by direct participation in the performance or by sharing support, e.g. financial or labor. Even villagers, who have migrated for work, tend to come back for the ritual and believe that if they don’t come, they could be struck by illness or bad luck.
Cambodia 2018 -
Tiên Công Festival
Tien Cong Temple (also known as Thap Cuu Tien Cong Temple) is located in Cam Thanh Village, Cam La Commune, about 5km from the center of Quang Yen Town, worshiping 17 "Thap That Tien Cong". According to the stele and genealogy, from about 1434 to 1500, there were 17 Tien Cong from Kim Hoa Ward (now Kim Lien Ward), Tho Xuong District, Hoai Duc Prefecture, Thang Long Citadel (Hanoi) and their families following the Red River to the Bach Dang River mouth to find a way to make a living, reclaim land, establish villages and hamlets. These are the people who made the first contributions to the cause of building dykes to reclaim land from the sea and rivers to establish the Ha Nam island area, including Cam La Commune. The Tien Cong Festival (also known as the "Procession" ceremony festival) is a unique festival and is held on a large scale in Quang Yen town. The festival takes place from the 5th to the 7th day of the first lunar month to commemorate the Tien Cong who had the merit of reclaiming and establishing the islands of Ha Nam and Quang Yen. The Tien Cong Festival in the Ha Nam island region (Quang Yen town) has been preserved and promoted by the people for more than 300 years. The festival space takes place in Phong Coc, Phong Hai, Yen Hai wards and Cam La commune. The festival center is at the Tien Cong temple relic (Cam La commune) and at the Tien Cong family temples. From the ancestral shrines, each family and clan brings offerings, welcoming the elderly (80, 90, 100 years old or older) to the Tien Cong temple to worship their ancestors. Representatives of the clans offer offerings and make offerings on the Tien Cong stele. The opening of the Tien Cong Festival is the “Ra cỗ họ” ceremony, also known as the “Lễ tế Tổ” ceremony. The “Ancestor” ceremony is held by the Tien Cong clans on the 4th day of the first lunar month every year. This is the biggest ceremony in the ancestral temples of the year. The “Ra cỗ họ” ceremony is a ceremony to pray for the ancestors and ancestors to bless their grandchildren and children with a prosperous new year; it is a ceremony to send off the ancestors and ancestors in the ancestral temple according to the local people’s fine customs and is also a festival of the clan. After the ancestral ceremony, many cultural activities and folk games are organized such as: wrestling, swinging, cockfighting, human chess, tom diem, dum singing, tug of war, volleyball, building dikes... In particular, the ceremony of the elders building dikes and wrestling opens the festival, creating a joyful and exciting atmosphere. On the 5th day of the first lunar month, the children and grandchildren in the family whose parents have reached the age of longevity prepare to decorate the family yard according to the traditional longevity celebration ceremony. On the 6th of January, families of the same clan and village organize a procession to carry the ancestors in a peach hammock to the Tien Cong temple to worship their ancestors, called the "Rước Thọ" or "Rước Người" ceremony, along with the preparation of offerings and ceremonial objects, costumes, ceremonial music team, and peach hammock palanquins for the procession, which are prepared months before the festival takes place. The most joyful and splendid Tien Cong festival is on the main festival day (the 7th of January) with the most unique "Rước Người" ceremony in the whole country, expressing admiration and honor for the ancestors, imbued with the cultural identity of the residents of the Bach Dang estuary. At noon on the main festival day, the sacrificial group representing the Four Communes organizes the "Tế giã" ceremony, ending the festival. Tien Cong Festival is a traditional cultural beauty that evokes the morality of “When drinking water, remember its source”, “Respect the elderly and live long” and promotes the solidarity of clans and villages, and has become an intangible cultural heritage that has a wide influence on the community and tourists. In 2017, Tien Cong Festival was honored as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. The annual organization of Tien Cong Festival has become a unique tourism product of Quang Yen town, Quang Ninh province.
Viet Nam -
Kỳ yên Peace Begging Festival at Bình Thủy Communal House
Kỳ Yên Peace Begging Festival at Bình Thủy Communal House, Can Tho city, is held twice a year: Thuong Dien (mid-April lunar calendar) and Ha Dien (mid-December lunar calendar). In which, Ky Yen Thuong Dien is the biggest festival of the year at the communal house, held on April 12-15 of the lunar calendar to pray for favorable weather and a good crop. On the 11th, rituals take place to prepare for the festival, including: Opening ceremony of the three-door gate, land worship ceremony, offering to the ancestors, and presenting the birth ceremony. The festival includes the following rituals: Than Nong worship ceremony, Thay Khăn sắc Thần Ceremony, Xay Chau - Dai Boi Ceremony, Chanh Te Ceremony, Son Quan worship ceremony... Early in the morning of the 12th, the Than Nong worship ceremony takes place at the temple to commemorate the God of Agriculture. The offerings are the three animals in the previous day's presentation ceremony, which have been slaughtered and roasted pig, wine, cakes, fruits, incense, and lamps... Next, the first ritual is the ceremony to invite the divine decree to travel by royal palanquin, after which the procession returns to the communal house for the enthronement ceremony. While the divine decree is traveling, families on both sides of the road set up trays of offerings to welcome the god to pray for health, peace, and prosperity. At noon, at 12 o'clock, is the ceremony to change the divine decree's scarf. The celebrant performs the ceremony to ask for a new scarf for the decree. After that, there is the Xay Chau - Dai Boi ceremony at Binh Thuy communal house, in the form of building a semi-literary and semi-martial art, harmoniously and balancedly combining the literary and martial arts of the Xay Chau. Before starting the Xay Chau ceremony, the celebrant performs the ceremony to invite Thanh Hoang to attend and listen to the opera. After that, the Chau drum beats with 360 drumsticks to begin the ceremony. The Xay Chau ceremony represents the meaning of opening the supreme ultimate, harmonizing the two principles, and praying for peace. The Dai Boi ceremony is performed by the actors and actresses in the opera troupe, materializing the Xay Chau ceremony with the image of the characters combined with costumes, dances and lyrics through the rituals: nhat thai (nhut tru), luong nghi, tam tai, tu tuong, ngu hanh in sequence with the number of performers: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5… On the morning of the 13th, there is a ceremony in the main hall. On the morning of the 14th, there is a Tuc yet ceremony to welcome the gods. Special offerings include a shaved pig, 1 cup of blood, 1 cup of hair. After the celebrant reads the Van Te, it is burned. On the morning of the 15th, there is a Chanh Te ceremony, the most important ritual in the temple worship ceremony. This is a ceremony to worship the Gods during the Thuong Dien festival, to thank the Gods, to worship the Ancestors, and to worship the Later Ancestors. The offerings to the Gods are a white pig, a cup of blood and other offerings. After the Chanh Te ceremony is the Ton Vuong ceremony performed by the opera actors of the Ban Te Tu Dinh. Next is the Son Quan worship ceremony at Son Quan temple, also known as Ong Ho temple. In addition to the rituals and performances of traditional opera, Binh Thuy Communal House Festival also organizes activities such as: sticky rice blowing contest, local cuisine performance, traditional opera singing, along with folk games such as: boat racing, tug of war, pot smashing (blindfolded), sack jumping... attracting many participants. The Kỳ Yên Peace Begging Festival at Bình Thủy Communal House with its humanistic rituals is an opportunity to unite the community, people gather to have fun and relax to start the new crop. The Kỳ Yên Peace Begging Festival at Bình Thủy Communal House is an important testament to the history of Vietnamese settlement in this land. The royal decree and the communal house worshiping Thanh Hoang show the recognition of the monarchy in terms of administration and the formation of villages and communes. With its typical value, the Kỳ Yên Peace Begging Festival at Bình Thủy Communal House was included in the List of National Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism in 2018.
Viet Nam -
Phương Độ Communal House Festival
Phuong Do Communal House used to belong to Phuong Do village, La Dinh commune, Phu Binh district, Thai Nguyen province, now belongs to Xuan Phuong commune, Phu Binh district. Phuong Do Communal House Festival is a festival associated with the worship of the talented general - Duc Thanh Duong Tu Minh - a great general in the Ly dynasty (11th - 12th century), who had the merit of repelling the Song invaders, firmly protecting the northern border of Dai Viet. Phuong Do people worship him as the village's tutelary god at the communal house. Every year, Phuong Do Communal House holds many festivals, notably in January, April, and October (Lunar calendar). The biggest festival of the year is held from October 9 to 11, with a palanquin procession to thank the village's tutelary god for blessing the people with a bountiful harvest and to pray for favorable weather, good crops, and peace for every family. The offerings to the tutelary god are local products, quite rich and diverse. The palanquin procession is organized elaborately. The village carries the Saint from the communal house to the communal house, with 2 palanquins. Each palanquin has 4 people carrying it, called "palanquin legs", one palanquin goes up to the Upper Communal House, one palanquin goes down to the Lower Communal House. The two palanquins go one way and the other way, forming a closed circle, the palanquins meet, the two palanquins greet each other by turning the palanquin once, then lowering it onto the palanquin legs, the mandarins burn incense and ask to welcome the Saint back to the communal house. After the ceremony, the palanquin is carried back to the communal house, when it reaches the communal house gate, the village palanquin comes out to welcome it, the village palanquin goes first, the two Saint palanquins go behind. After the palanquins are placed in place, the Great Sacrifice ceremony takes place solemnly in the communal house yard. The ritual is performed by the head of the incense burner and the elders, virtuous and prestigious people elected by the villagers, called the Chief Priest and the mandarins. The Chief Priest is the one with the main responsibility for the Saint's sacrifice. The sacrificial costumes are according to regulations, the Chief Priest wears a red tunic, the mandarins wear blue tunic, wear shoes, and wear a hat with a strip. When entering the ceremony, spread out 4 mats in a vertical row in front of the altar: The first mat is called the "nghinh thần" mat, to perform the ceremony of welcoming the gods, reading the wishes, the master of ceremonies stands here to make offerings. The second mat is called the "thu tộ" mat, where the master of ceremonies goes up to enjoy the blessings bestowed by the gods. The third mat is called the "phuc vị" mat, or the "chủ tế" mat. The fourth mat is called the "Bồi tế" mat. The ceremony of the tutelary god at Phuong Do communal house bears the shadow of a feudal court activity with solemn and standardized court rituals. After three drum beats, gongs, and jubilant music, the ceremony takes place with all the rituals of the initial offering, the secondary offering, the final offering, and the final offering. Festival activities with folk games: lion dance, offering, wrestling, cockfighting, quan ho singing, chess playing... create a joyful and exciting atmosphere. As a unique, large-scale festival in the region that attracts a large number of participants, the festival still preserves sacred elements and traditional rituals with typical cultural features of the Northern midland region. The festival expresses the people's aspirations for a better life, and educates about the tradition of patriotism and the morality of remembering one's roots when drinking water. In 2018, the Minister of Culture, Sports and Tourism decided to include Phuong Do Communal House Festival in the List of National Intangible Cultural Heritage, the type of Traditional Festival.
Viet Nam -
Tshemzo: The art of Tailoring, Embroidery and Appliqué
Tshemzo includes three forms of art - tailoring, embroidery and appliqué under one name. Tailoring involves stitching all kinds of garments while embroidery, which is called tshemdrub, and appliqué or lhemdrub are done for making thangka and thongdroel. According to Lam Nado (Druk Karpo, 1986), the art Embroidery called tshemdrub and appliqué was introduced in Bhutan by Drung Damcho Gyaltshen, secretary of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. He was not only a scholar but was also highly skilled in the art of Tshemzo. Later the art was widely spread by Penlop (Chieftain) Drakpa Jamtsho and Choeje (Nobility) Jamgon Ngawang Gyaltshen subsequently. Tshemdrub involves working with thread and needle to produce designs while lhemdrub involves fixing the cut patches of either silk or brocade to produce bigger images. Monks normally practice the art of embroidery and appliqué.Monks produce large religious scrolls known as Thangkas that portray Buddhist deities and saints. Seven different kinds of embroidery are practiced: •\t Lhugtshem-light coloured embroidery •\t Sitshem- the bold coloured embroidery •\t Nyitshem- double-embroidery •\t Chagthagtshem- Iron-chain embroidery •\t Zurtshem- lining embroidery •\t Dongtshem- front embroidery •\t Chedtshem- outline embroidery a. Sewing Traditional Garments: Common practice among the people is lagtshem (hand sweing) or thrultshem (sewing by using a tailoring machine). These tailors are skilled at sewing the traditional Bhutanese garments. They stitch gho and kira, the national attires for men and women respectively. They also design and stitch tego and wonju (blouse) worn by Bhutanese women. Traditionally, lagtshem- to stitch costumes with bare hands using the thread and needles were practiced and were done mostly at home. Today, however, with the advancement in technologies, tailors use modern sewing machines, which are more effective and carried out with much ease.
Bhutan