Materials
embroidery
ICH Materials 319
Videos
(13)-
Kalpak Dignifies the Man
This film is dedicated to kalpak—a traditional male felt hat. Knowledgeable people (a teacher, a journalist, an activist, and craftswomen) talk about the social functions and spiritual meanings behind kalpak. The film shows traditional and modern methods of making kalpak.
Kyrgyzstan 2017 -
Tush-kiyiz—Traditional Skills in Making Wall Carpets
The centuries-old nomadic way of life of the Kyrgyz people contributed to the high skill level of women in crafts development. Tush-kiyiz, an embroidered wall carpet, is a fine example of Kyrgyz decorative and applied art. Tush-kiyiz was given a special place in the interior of the yurt. Embroidered panels of cloth—satin, silk, or another fabric—tush-kiyiz is framed with a broad band of black velvet, on which is usually sew one, two, or three fringed triangles. Tush-kiyiz have always been created as a personal family heirloom, symbolizing a newly married couple’s union with family.
Kyrgyzstan 2017 -
Kyrgyzstan Komuz&Kalpak Dignifies the Man (Highlight)
The film is dedicated to the Kyrgyz folk instrument komuz. An expert on making and playing komuz shares an komuz origin story. The film shows the interconnectedness between the models and melodies of komuz. Outstanding komuz makers and players as well as komuz beginners present some classical komuz melodies in the film. \nThis film is dedicated to kalpak—a traditional male felt hat. Knowledgeable people (a teacher, a journalist, an activist, and craftswomen) talk about the social functions and spiritual meanings behind kalpak. The film shows traditional and modern methods of making kalpak.
Kyrgyzstan 2017 -
Lkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet
Having originated in bhani, a type of drama, mentioned in at least 10th century inscriptions of Cambodia, Lkhon Khol today is performed by males, wearing masks with the accompaniment of pin peat, a traditional orchestra, and melodious recitation. It performs only episodes from Reamker, a Cambodian version of the Indian Ramayana.\nLkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet is distinct from the generic form because its specific aim is to propitiate Neak Ta (guardian spirits of a place and its people; in this case the community of Wat Svay Andet), and in so doing, protect and make prosperous the community, its lands and harvest. When Lkhon Khol is performed especially during a fixed date after the New Year, spirit mediums are presented to facilitate interaction between the Neak Ta, performers and villagers. Spirit mediums, who predict the situation for the upcoming year, attend the performance and become possessed by the Neak Ta and then might get on the stage. When the spirits are satisfied by the performance, villagers are blessed by them, and if not, dancers will stop; the music continues; and the audience will fall silent and carefully listen to the spirits. Then the episode must be performed again. nIn Wat Svay Andet, Lkhon Khol has such spiritual significance in the community that some Reamker characters have become local deities in themselves. For example, on the campus of the monastery, a shrine for Hanuman (Monkey General) locally called Lok Ta Kamheng is built and venerated. The mask for Tos Mok (Ravana, King of the Demons) also lives and is venerated in a spirit house at the home of the family that has danced that role for several generations. In addition to the intrinsic specificity of the Wat Svay Andet form, some external differences are noted, such as the fact that three of the key roles are not masked. In fact their faces are painted white, indicating that they are neither mortals nor gods. The costumes, which are very refined with magnificent embroidery, are also different especially from those of the Battambang Troupe. Melodies for recitations are also different and richer. nLkhon Khol Wat Svay Andet is not performed by professional artists, but by the villagers themselves, and they do not perform for money but for merits and their community’s well-being. Everyone in the community is obliged to contribute, either by direct participation in the performance or by sharing support, e.g. financial or labor. Even villagers, who have migrated for work, tend to come back for the ritual and believe that if they don’t come, they could be struck by illness or bad luck.
Cambodia -
Into the Heart of the Mandaya
▶ Play Video 2. Into the Heart of the Mandaya A Journey through the Wilds of Davao Oriental\nThis episode was first aired on Filipino television on November 16, 1995. This episode has been modified from its original format.\n\nAnimals were offered in the context of the Mandaya cultural ritual.\n\nThe Mandaya are a complex group that can be referred to by different terms: Mangwanga, Mangrangan, Mangosan, Magosan, Pagsupan, Divavaonon, Dibabaon, and Mansaka. Members reside in Davao Oriental. They are concentrated in the municipalities of Caraga, Manay, Cateel, Lupon, and Tarragona. The known subgroupings are: (1) Mansaka, (2) Pagsupan, (3) Mangwanga (Mangrangan, Compostela), (4) Managosan, (5) Divavaon (Dibabaon, mixed Manobo Mandaya), and (6) Karaga.\n\nThe Mandaya occupy upstream areas, practicing slash-and-burn cultivation in highly dispersed settlements. In addition to a wide range of cropping for domestic consumption, abaca is cultivated as a cash crop. Rice, various tubers, and bananas form the bulk of their diet. Communities are dispersed usually near swiddens. Two or three family units usually occupy houses, and these are usually within sight even if dispersed. Proximity of these houses constitutes a neighborhood, which is loosely organized into a larger discrete domain with all of the households related through various kin relationships. Families are either nuclear or polygynous.\n\nTraditionally, each domain has a headman, bagani, whose word is considered law and who wears distinctive red clothing. He is the recognized protector of the community. His rule is tempered by an advisory council, angtutukay, usually composed of community elders. With the disappearance of the bagani social structure at present, the civil structures of the barangay prevail. There still exists, however, a conflict between the established civil authority and the informal authorities.\n\nThe Mandaya/Mansaka women are famous for their distinctive dresses and ornaments. Their tie-dye weaving and embroidery are intertwined through a sophisticated symbolic art system that evolved design motifs that each have names. The binulanbulan motif, for instance, consists of nested circles representing the moon, and suksuk ng kasili represents fish scales. These motifs are embroidered on blouses against a contrasting red or black background. The beadwork and silver craft on body ornaments mark this group as one of the most noteworthy in terms of art. Unique among Filipino ethno-linguistic groups are the women’s large ornate silver breast ornaments (platina), their multiple fossil shell arm bracelets, and their embroidered blouses. The men wear a distinctive narrow hat constructed from the shaft of a palm frond.
Philippines 1995 -
Tajikistan - Huboni Khatlon
The various forms of traditional Tajik dances can be differentiated according to region, from Pamir state, to the mountainous region, Bukhra, Khatlon region in the south, Hissar valley, and northern Tajikistan. Huboni Khatlon is a traditional dance of the Khatlon region in southern Tajikistan, bordering Afghanistan. True to the title which means ‘Beautys of Khatlon’, the dance depicts young women living in Khatlon. The dancers wear beautiful traditional costumes called ‘chakan’, which is elaborately embroidered with the bright colors of spring flowers.\n\nCharacteristics:\n·Dance performed by dancers wearing chakan, a traditional costume decorated with colorful embroidery\n\nPerformed by Bazmoro Tajikistan National Dance Ensemble\nDirected by Qurbonali Kholov
Tajikistan Sep 3, 2016 -
Thailand - Khon Masked Dance
Khon masked dance is the most iconic of Thai masked dances. It is characterized by impressive visuals that span various genres of art, from the elaborate embroidery on the costumes to highly detailed props such as masks and swords made by master craftsmen. Traditionally, Khon masked dance was performed only in the royal court and enjoyed by male members of the royalty. It is performed by over 100 masked dancers, a narrator who explains the plot of the play, a large piphat (traditional Thai musical ensemble comprising string instruments and percussions), and a chorus.\n\nThe content and theme of the Khon dance is based on the Ramikien, a Thai adaptation of the Ramayana (2nd century BC), one of the two major Indian epics. According to the Khmer dictionary, the word ‘khon’ means role play. Dancers act out the narration silently. Major characters include the prince (the hero), princess, giant and monkey. Only the giant and the monkey wear masks. As the dancer’s every movement has to fit the role perfectly, Khon dancers have to be trained from a very young age.\n\nCharacteristics:\n· Representative masked dance of Thailand\n· Performed by male dancers in the palace\n\nPerformed by Insawang Suphachai\nDirected by Insawang Suphachai
Thailand Nov 26, 2010 -
Tajikistan - Sokiv Jamor
Dancers wearing elaborate costumes with golden embroidery hold mirrors in their hands while dancing. ‘Sokiv jamor’ means ‘beautiful women’ in Tajik, and the dance could only be performed by royal court dancers for the Shah (King in Persian). Each team typically consists of 10, 16 or 24 women, who dance to Shashmaqom, a traditional musical genre invented by court musicians in the 17th century. The traditional dances of Tajikistan are more complicated and technical than those of other Central Asian nations. Dance is one of the oldest genres of art in Tajikistan and receives a wide range of government support in the present day.\n\nCharacteristics:\n∙Court dance performed by female dancers holding mirrors\n\nPerformed by Bazmoro Tajikistan National Dance Ensemble\nDirected by Qurbonali Kholov
Tajikistan Aug 29, 2016 -
Panubok
By University of the Philippines Visayas\nThe University of the Philippines Visayas filmed “Panubok, The Intangible Culture of Panay Bukidnon,” which describes the meaning of panubok, the traditional embroidery of the Panay Bukidnon, as well as its past and future.\nThe video shows young people doing the traditional binanog dance while wearing clothes with panubok embroidery.
Philippines 2017 -
Peranakan Embroidery - Rejuvenation Gown
The Craft X Design project is part of NHB’s efforts to promote greater awareness of intangible cultural heritage (ICH), raise the profile of local traditional craftsmanship, and increase access of local traditional craft practitioners to new markets, networks and designs. Craft X Design pairs four traditional craft practitioners with four local designers and/or studios to reimagine traditional crafts into innovative and modern products that express and embody Singapore’s rich and diverse cultural heritage.\n\nThe collaboration between kebaya maker Raymond Wong and designers from Aller Row, Joanna Lim and Joanne Quek led to the reinvention of the traditional Peranakan Kebaya as a modern couture gown. \n
Singapore 2022 -
Suzaniduzi—Folk Embroidery
Embroidery a favorite hobby of Tajik women, being practiced in various forms and styles in different parts of Tajikistan. Suzaniduzi is a popular form of embroidered needlework. Initially, a naqsh (drawing) is outlined on cloth and later is embroidered with colorful thread, according to the taste of the embroiderer. Every suzaniduzi pattern has a specific meaning. Most naqsh are inspired by nature. The patterns have ceremonial significance, and that’s why most of them are prepared for brides and the house of newlywed couples.
Tajikistan 2017 -
Embroidery with Yellow-Golden Threads: The Artist
Muqarama Kayumova doesn’t speak about herself much, but she appears knowledgeable and understanding. As head of the Foundation of Craftsmen of Tajikistan, she is known as a designer and a participant of the festival movement of folk craftsmen. Her father, a Tajik originally from Samarqand, moved to Dushanbe when the republic of Tajikistan was formed. The family practiced golden embroidery, and the knowledge and skills were passed to children. Golden embroidery was a domestic hobby and the opportunity for Muqarama to create something to decorate an interior or a dress.\n\nIn her workshop are awards, diplomas, and certificates recognizing her for her accomplishments and talents. Her finest pieces are in galleries and collections outside of Tajikistan. And whatever work is currently exhibited in her workshop will eventually leave as well. One of her rules is to create something necessary for people, something to decorate their lives. Knowing Muqarama means being introduced to the craftsman, the artist, the designer, the art-manager, the historian, and a person who is in love with her country.
Tajikistan 2017