Materials
embroidery art
ICH Materials 58
Videos
(5)-
Into the Heart of the Mandaya
▶ Play Video 2. Into the Heart of the Mandaya A Journey through the Wilds of Davao Oriental\nThis episode was first aired on Filipino television on November 16, 1995. This episode has been modified from its original format.\n\nAnimals were offered in the context of the Mandaya cultural ritual.\n\nThe Mandaya are a complex group that can be referred to by different terms: Mangwanga, Mangrangan, Mangosan, Magosan, Pagsupan, Divavaonon, Dibabaon, and Mansaka. Members reside in Davao Oriental. They are concentrated in the municipalities of Caraga, Manay, Cateel, Lupon, and Tarragona. The known subgroupings are: (1) Mansaka, (2) Pagsupan, (3) Mangwanga (Mangrangan, Compostela), (4) Managosan, (5) Divavaon (Dibabaon, mixed Manobo Mandaya), and (6) Karaga.\n\nThe Mandaya occupy upstream areas, practicing slash-and-burn cultivation in highly dispersed settlements. In addition to a wide range of cropping for domestic consumption, abaca is cultivated as a cash crop. Rice, various tubers, and bananas form the bulk of their diet. Communities are dispersed usually near swiddens. Two or three family units usually occupy houses, and these are usually within sight even if dispersed. Proximity of these houses constitutes a neighborhood, which is loosely organized into a larger discrete domain with all of the households related through various kin relationships. Families are either nuclear or polygynous.\n\nTraditionally, each domain has a headman, bagani, whose word is considered law and who wears distinctive red clothing. He is the recognized protector of the community. His rule is tempered by an advisory council, angtutukay, usually composed of community elders. With the disappearance of the bagani social structure at present, the civil structures of the barangay prevail. There still exists, however, a conflict between the established civil authority and the informal authorities.\n\nThe Mandaya/Mansaka women are famous for their distinctive dresses and ornaments. Their tie-dye weaving and embroidery are intertwined through a sophisticated symbolic art system that evolved design motifs that each have names. The binulanbulan motif, for instance, consists of nested circles representing the moon, and suksuk ng kasili represents fish scales. These motifs are embroidered on blouses against a contrasting red or black background. The beadwork and silver craft on body ornaments mark this group as one of the most noteworthy in terms of art. Unique among Filipino ethno-linguistic groups are the women’s large ornate silver breast ornaments (platina), their multiple fossil shell arm bracelets, and their embroidered blouses. The men wear a distinctive narrow hat constructed from the shaft of a palm frond.
Philippines 1995 -
Tajikistan - Sokiv Jamor
Dancers wearing elaborate costumes with golden embroidery hold mirrors in their hands while dancing. ‘Sokiv jamor’ means ‘beautiful women’ in Tajik, and the dance could only be performed by royal court dancers for the Shah (King in Persian). Each team typically consists of 10, 16 or 24 women, who dance to Shashmaqom, a traditional musical genre invented by court musicians in the 17th century. The traditional dances of Tajikistan are more complicated and technical than those of other Central Asian nations. Dance is one of the oldest genres of art in Tajikistan and receives a wide range of government support in the present day.\n\nCharacteristics:\n∙Court dance performed by female dancers holding mirrors\n\nPerformed by Bazmoro Tajikistan National Dance Ensemble\nDirected by Qurbonali Kholov
Tajikistan Aug 29, 2016 -
Embroidery with Yellow-Golden Threads: The Artist
Muqarama Kayumova doesn’t speak about herself much, but she appears knowledgeable and understanding. As head of the Foundation of Craftsmen of Tajikistan, she is known as a designer and a participant of the festival movement of folk craftsmen. Her father, a Tajik originally from Samarqand, moved to Dushanbe when the republic of Tajikistan was formed. The family practiced golden embroidery, and the knowledge and skills were passed to children. Golden embroidery was a domestic hobby and the opportunity for Muqarama to create something to decorate an interior or a dress.\n\nIn her workshop are awards, diplomas, and certificates recognizing her for her accomplishments and talents. Her finest pieces are in galleries and collections outside of Tajikistan. And whatever work is currently exhibited in her workshop will eventually leave as well. One of her rules is to create something necessary for people, something to decorate their lives. Knowing Muqarama means being introduced to the craftsman, the artist, the designer, the art-manager, the historian, and a person who is in love with her country.
Tajikistan 2017 -
Thailand - Khon Masked Dance
Khon masked dance is the most iconic of Thai masked dances. It is characterized by impressive visuals that span various genres of art, from the elaborate embroidery on the costumes to highly detailed props such as masks and swords made by master craftsmen. Traditionally, Khon masked dance was performed only in the royal court and enjoyed by male members of the royalty. It is performed by over 100 masked dancers, a narrator who explains the plot of the play, a large piphat (traditional Thai musical ensemble comprising string instruments and percussions), and a chorus.\n\nThe content and theme of the Khon dance is based on the Ramikien, a Thai adaptation of the Ramayana (2nd century BC), one of the two major Indian epics. According to the Khmer dictionary, the word ‘khon’ means role play. Dancers act out the narration silently. Major characters include the prince (the hero), princess, giant and monkey. Only the giant and the monkey wear masks. As the dancer’s every movement has to fit the role perfectly, Khon dancers have to be trained from a very young age.\n\nCharacteristics:\n· Representative masked dance of Thailand\n· Performed by male dancers in the palace\n\nPerformed by Insawang Suphachai\nDirected by Insawang Suphachai
Thailand Nov 26, 2010 -
Keste—Kazakh Embroidery on Various Materials
The video shows Kazakh keste (embroidery) an original Kazakh folk art and craft. According to experts, the word keste comes from an ancient Iranian word that can be literally translated as “painted”. Since ancient times almost every woman was engaged in embroidery. This art was inherited from mother to daughter. Masters embroidered on domestic canvases, leather, suede, and felt and on imported cloth, silk, cotton, and velvet. Also, experts distinguish the seam biz keste, performed by a conventional tambour seam with the help of a hook. Zeynelkhan Mukhamedzhan, the famous Kazakh artist and master of decorative and applied art, has been reviving this technique. Today, the artist passes his skills to students at the Almaty Art College.
Kazakhstan 2017