Wadangmet, also known as Papani, is one of the greatest festivals of the Chhiling Rai people from the eastern hills of Nepal. Just after the Nepali Tihar festival (Sep/Oct) is celebrated, every Rai household in the community takes out the Dhol and Jhymta, musical instruments which are kept hidden in the house for a whole year. Pulling out these instruments signals the beginning of the festival which lasts for 1-2 weeks. My 80-year-old grandmother loved telling this and many other stories about the Rai culture. It is believed that divine Rai deities, Ambirahang and Rexihang, children of Budahang come to the village and shower their blessings on the people. Budahang is the king of the gods. According to the Chhiling legend, Budahang’s children ran away and secretly got married, a serious violation of Rai social and traditional norms. For breaking the taboo, they were banished from the village. The villagers, however, decided that couple could visit the village for one week every year. Wadangmet is celebrated to welcome the return of the banished couple with singing and dancing. During their stay, the community does not perform any other rituals or worship other souls and spirits. The celebrations begin on the full moon in November. As an offering, the locals take one half kilogram of rice (mana dhurne) to the local priest’s house. This offering, on the first day of the festival, is made to the unholy couple to encourage their blessings of eternal life for family members. On the second day the people gather at the priest’s house and, during puja, offer a pig and two chickens to the siblings. The same day, they clean and worship in the village courtyards. On the third day, the villagers gather at the Mukhiya’s (the head of the village) house with Dhol and Jhyampta to perform traditional dancing. They cut another pig and share the feast. On the fourth day, every household offers a pig to Ashik Hang (the king of blessing) for a long and healthy life. At this time the household’s future for the coming year is forecasted by performing the “Tharkibahal or Mangla” ritual; a chicken is offered to gods. If a chicken bleeds it is believed that family members will have a peaceful and healthy life for the coming year. If the chicken doesn’t bleed the family will have one year of uncertainty. The celebration continues for a fifth day in another village. On the sixth day the raucous celebration continues at the Mukhiya’s house in another village. Traditionally, the day also used to be an occasion for joking and courting among boys and girls. They would meet, fall in love and many would practice bhagibibaha; they would elope and be considered married. Wadangmet is the happiest time of the year. It’s a festival to celebrate life, community, friendship, love, music and dance. The final day of the festival is MangPankha; seeing off the deities. This is a week-long celebration at the Priest’s house that includes more rice and chicken puja, singing, dancing and playing the hidden musical instruments. People dance for whole night (and drink) and when the sun rises, they once again bid farewell to forbidden couple. Achita, rice used for the pujas, is considered to cure diseases. They save it for medicinal use throughout the coming year. No one knows how or when this festival began. My grandmother was filled with myths and fascinating stories about ancestors and how they lived. Regrettably, many of these stories are being forgotten but, Wadangmet is alive and well. Long live the Chhilings Rai people!

Bali Kecak Dance performance. These photos are taken during my travel in Bali in 2016.