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accessories
ICH Elements 5
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Okjang (Jade Craft)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea Okjang refers to the skill of jade carving or an artisan with such a skill. Jade, set in gold and silver, was a favorite gemstone for Asians. Jade was used as an accessory symbolizing the five virtues, courage, benevolence, wisdom, rectitude and honesty. It was also used to make ceremonial utensils, hanging accessories indicating the wearer’s social status, okgyeong (jade chimes), medicinal materials, and medical tools. The use of jade as an important accessory for upper class people is testified to by the jade artifacts found at the sites dating from the Bronze Age, the curved jade, jade beads, and tubular jade unearthed from tombs of Three Kingdoms Period, and the jade waist belt of King Jinpyeong, which is said to be one of the top three treasures of Silla. Up to the Joseon Period, jade artifacts could be used only by members of the Royal Family and upper class people. It was difficult to acquire jade and the government limited the number of jade artisans. The work of jade processing, from quarrying to design, cutting, formation, detailed carving, and lustering requires careful handling and exquisite artistic skills.
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Chimseonjang (Needlework)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea Chimseonjang refers to the needlework skill use in making clothes and accessories, or to an artisan with such a skill. Perhaps, people started doing needlework in the prehistoric period. Metal needles similar to those of the present day have been found on sites of the Silla Period (37 BC – 935 AD). We can see that needlework developed to a considerable level during the Three Kingdoms Period (circa 57BC – 668 AD) based on murals in tombs of Goguryeo and on Samguk sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms). It continued to develop during the Goryeo (877 – 1394) and Joseon (1392 – 1910) Periods. Needlework is mostly done with cotton thread on silk, cotton, ramie, and hemp fabrics. The type of thread to be used is selected depending on the quality, color, and thickness of the cloth to be worked on. In olden days, needlework used to be an essential skill for women. There was even a sewing room in the Royal Palace.
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Traditional craftsmanship of Mongol costume
Mongolians do believe that their traditional costumes represent and express the essence of the state existence. According to the symbolic meaning, we do say as the hat represents the rising state, the deel represents the harmonic state, the belt represents succeeded state, the boot represents the support of stay. The traditional costumes, accessories and decorations of various ethnic groups of Mongolia illustrate their origins and historic background, specific features of culture, practices and aesthetic manners. The distinct characteristics of different ethnic groups can be seen through their hats, men’s deel (traditional garment) and their accessories or cuffs, lapel, shoulder of women’s deel, hair dressings, decorations and boots.
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Maedeupjang (Decorative Knotting)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea There are several types of strings used to make decorative knots. Circular strings used in accessories or pouches are called dongdahoe. Wide and flat strings used in waist belts are called gwangdahoe, whereas knots used in attire or ceremonial accessories are called gyeokdap or gyeolja. It is not easy to clarify precisely when and where the knot, a field of Korean traditional crafts, originated. However, it is speculated that Korea's knots and tassel decorations were influenced by China due to frequent exchanges between the two countries. And it is presumed that the knot craft in Korea affected that of Japan. Chinese knots are characterized by their variety and their extravagant style, whereas Japan focused on the functionality of the string rather than the decorativeness of the knot itself. In contrast, Korean traditional knots are characterized by pursuing proportional and rhythmic beauty by forming a shape using monochromatic strings and hanging tassels underneath. In addition, there are many forms and names derived from animals and plants, such as the lotus bud knot, chrysanthemum knot, and dragonfly knot. It can be stated that the Korean knot is not only functional but also plays a decorative role that highlights the subject but is expressed in elegant elegance rather than in extravagance. During the Joseon Period, the government designated knot craftsmen. As for the materials used to make knots, there are threads made of silk, ramie, mulberry, hemp, and woolen yarn. Knot shapes vary depending on the color, thickness, and methods used for tying. The names used to call them differ from region to region. The names were based on household items, flowers, or insects, such as ginger piece, butterfly, dragonfly, chrysanthemum, etc. Tassels were attached to the lower end of the decorative knots used for musical instruments, vehicles, or Buddhist ceremonies. There were diverse types and levels of tassels depending on their use, i.e., whether they were for the Royal Palace or ordinary households.
South Korea
ICH Materials 3
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Mongolian Culture and HeritageThe culture of the Central Asian steppes expresses itself vividly in the lifestyle of traditional nomadic practices. Mongolian culture has been in practice in the nomadic life and the traditions surrounding the nomad’s home (ger). And it is present in religious celebrations, national festivals, art and crafts, music and dance, language and literature, which form the backbone of Mongolian intangible cultural heritage of Mongolia. Mongolia is filled with valuable cultural properties and intangible cultural heritage of humanity that have been kept or practiced for thousands of years.\n\nGer, Mongolian Traditional Dwelling\nThe traditional architecture of the Mongols differed strongly from that of the settled peoples of Asia and other continents. Centuries ago, there the ger, also known as a yurt, appeared. It still offers shelter to nomads in particular places in Central Asia. Its development and fundamental principles are determined by the specific features of the way of life of Mongol tribes, which made it necessary to evolve a light and collapsible structure to be used as a dwelling or for public functions.\n\nMongolian Language and Literature\nMongolian is the language of most of the Mongolian population and inner Mongolia. By origin, Mongolian is one of the Altaic family of languages, and the history of the Mongolian language is long and complicated. Significant literary work of early Mongolia includes The Secret History of the Mongols, which was published in 1228).\n\nMongolian Religion and Beliefs\nThe Mongols have practiced several religions, of which Shamanism and Buddhism were the most common. The faith in Mongolia is Buddhism, though the state and religion were separated during the socialist period, but with the transition to the parliamentary republic in the 1990s, there has been a general revival of faiths across the country\n\nMongolian Art and Crafts\nMongolian arts and crafts have been passed down across generations from the Paleolithic times to today, leaving behind deep impressions on all facets of life and conscious, aesthetic, and philosophical thinking. Highly developed Mongolian arts and crafts come from the second millennium BCE. The works included sculptured heads of wild animals with exaggerated features. Other items include knives, daggers, and other items of practical and religious use.\n\nMongolian Music and Dance\nMusic is an integral part of Mongolian culture. Among Mongolia’s unique contributions to the world’s musical culture are the long songs, overtone singing, and morin khuur (the horse-headed fiddle). The music of Mongolia is also rich with varieties related to the various ethnic groups of the country. Among the most popular forms of modern music in Mongolia are Western pop and rock genres and the mass songs written by contemporary authors in the form of folk songs.\n\nHorse Culture of Mongolia\nIt is famously known that horses play a large role in the Mongols’ daily and national lives. Common sayings are, “A Mongol without a horse is like a bird without wings,” and “Mongols are born on horseback” these are arguably true words. Even today, horse-based culture is still practiced by nomadic Mongolians.\n\nVisit https://www.toursmongolia.com/tours for additional information about Mongolian culture.\n\nPhoto 1 : Prairie meadow grass inner Mongolia traditional clothing © Batzaya Choijiljav\nPhoto 2~7 : © Batzaya ChoijiljavYear2020NationMongolia
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The Journey Towards Knotted AccessoriesKnotting is, in essence, the act of tying a thread or a cord so that it does not come undone, while knot craft is the art of weaving together various shapes using threads or cords made through various methods in order to serve a certain physical or psychological purpose.\nThe origin of knotting can arguably be traced back to the advent of humanity itself. In primitive times, it was necessary to fashion cords and knots out of tree bark and grass for survival purposes in the context of the hunter-gatherer lifestyle; uses would have included tying or linking together hunting tools or carrying captured prey. With the advancement of humanity, however, knots surpassed their purely utilitarian purpose and evolved into craft items that are closely linked to everyday life, with the addition of various materials and crafting techniques. For example, each civilization has evolved its own knotting techniques and shapes influenced by its surrounding environment, to craft items such as belts or waist cords, baskets, and straw mats. Over time, knots have also become accessories worn for aesthetic purposes and ornamental items used to decorate the household, in addition to ritual items used in various ceremonies. In this regard, knots have surpassed their original survival and everyday life purposes to take on aesthetic and spiritual functions as well.Year2022NationSouth Korea