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clothes
ICH Elements 2
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Jasujang (Embroidery)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea Records tell us that on the Korean Peninsula, embroidery started during the Three Kingdoms Period (circa 57 BC – 668 AD). During the Goryeo Period (877 – 1394), the practice became so widespread that it was adopted even on the clothes of ordinary people. As a result, embroidery was prohibited several times. With the start of the Joseon Period (1392 – 1910), the practice developed further and was divided into royal embroidery, exquisitely made by skilled court ladies, and the others. Looking at how a piece of embroidery is made, first the cloth to work on is fixed onto a frame and a rough sketch is made on it. Upon the completion of embroidery, the frame is shaken to remove dust. Then, a thin layer of paste is applied to the back of the embroidered surface so as not to let the stitches scatter. The embroidered piece is then placed in the shade to dry and removed from the frame. Embroidery has developed as a reflection of Koreans’ living environment, customs, and beliefs.
South Korea -
Chimseonjang (Needlework)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea Chimseonjang refers to the needlework skill use in making clothes and accessories, or to an artisan with such a skill. Perhaps, people started doing needlework in the prehistoric period. Metal needles similar to those of the present day have been found on sites of the Silla Period (37 BC – 935 AD). We can see that needlework developed to a considerable level during the Three Kingdoms Period (circa 57BC – 668 AD) based on murals in tombs of Goguryeo and on Samguk sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms). It continued to develop during the Goryeo (877 – 1394) and Joseon (1392 – 1910) Periods. Needlework is mostly done with cotton thread on silk, cotton, ramie, and hemp fabrics. The type of thread to be used is selected depending on the quality, color, and thickness of the cloth to be worked on. In olden days, needlework used to be an essential skill for women. There was even a sewing room in the Royal Palace.
South Korea
ICH Materials 31
Open Archive 4
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Arrival of the Autumn Reminds me “Bada Dashain” in Nepal
I am Rashila Maharjan. I am studying Anthropology in South Korea. Nowadays, Facebook walls are full of Dashain festival photos. Looking at the Dashain photos sent by my family and friends, I want to briefly share memories of Dashain when I was young. After a late scorching heat of summer, autumn is here. Days are shorter and nights are longer now. The cold breeze in the morning and evening gives me a sign telling, “Dashain ayo” which means “Dashain is here”. Dashain is a major and the longest festival in Nepal. A fifteen-day long festival is a most awaited festival in the year. This year it was celebrated from 7th October to 20th October. All the government agencies, educational institutions private offices get days off during this festival period. Dashain commemorates a great victory of gods over the wicked demons and it symbolizes the victory of good over evil. The story of good over evil is told throughout the festival. By this faith, people forgive each other, and convey greetings and best wishes to each other and pray for a year of a good harvest. On the auspicious occasion of Dashain, all houses are beautifully decorated, painted into different colors to roll out the red carpet for their guests. People do the shopping and buy new clothes. In the commemoration of the Dashain, a goat is slaughtered in every house for the preparation of a feast during the festival. With this preparation, family members and relatives, who had not seen or met for quite a while congregate and visit elders to seek Tika and Jamara, as well as a blessing. (According to the Hindu mythology, Tika (a red vermillion mark on forehead) is believed to give peace and calmness whereas Jamara (young saplings of rice seed tucked on ears) is said to be a sign of the blessing of goddess Durga.) On the other hand, elders of the family give tika as well as a blessing with cash gifts to the younger ones after receiving bows from them. One other activity throughout Dashain is flying kites, ridding on a traditional swing made by the bamboo tree, playing cards, etc. All members of the family gather and play cards while joking with each other, kids fly kites and ride on the swing. In the evening, people gather at the town square and share their stories. As in last year, COVID-19 has caused unleashed chaos and fear among the people. Despite the global pandemic the excitement and the spirit of the festival are not less than before. Nepal witnessed the Dashain celebration with a well-maintained social distance while on the contrary, people who are living abroad and can’t visit their home are using an online platform to celebrate the festival. Overall, Dashain is a grand and favorite festival for all age groups of people which symbolizes unity, harmony, and brotherhood. The autumn wind is blowing gently and the colors of leaves are changing in Korea. This cool weather and smell of autumn bring a feeling of Nostalgia that stems from memories of back to my homeland.
Nepal -
Fading Cultures of Bhutan
Bhutan is one of the world's smallest countries, but its cultural diversity and richness are remarkable. As a result, a considerable emphasis is placed on promoting and preserving its own culture. It is hoped that by safeguarding and nurturing Bhutan's living culture, the nation's sovereignty will be preserved. However, the Kingdom of Bhutan is undergoing tremendous transformation in the social, cultural, economic, and political spheres, resulting in unprecedented social confusion and stress. As a child, I liked photography and travel, and now I enjoy sharing stories via photographs. Our country, although rich in culture, is currently at a crossroads between modernisation and cultural preservation; with the improvement of living standards, it is difficult to see age-old practices and traditions being practiced. Everything from the way we travel to the food we eat, the language we speak, and the clothes we wear is changing and, in some cases, fading as time passes. These images serve as harsh reminders of how a country's intangible cultures and heritage are disappearing.
Bhutan -
Nubijang (Quilting)
Nubi is a method of sewing in order to put cotton, fur or mulberry paper between the outer fabric and the lining of cloth, or of broad pricking without putting anything between the outer fabric and lining to strengthen the cloth or to make it warmer. Nubijang refers to this skill or to an artisan with such a skill. The method became a common practice following the introduction of cotton growing. Some monks wore the same robe for tens of years, repairing it with this method. Nubi techniques developed to a point where even ordinary people came to adopt them. Among the things needed for the work of nubi are thread that matches as closely as possible that used on the clothes or bedding, needles, scissors, a heating iron, a push stick, a measuring stick, and a thimble. Regular straight lines are chiefly used for the nubi work on clothes or bedding, but a mixture of straight and curved lines are also used to make a pattern when working on wrapping cloth or pouches. The country’s traditional manual nubi sewing is said to be an artwork similar to embroidery, but it is gradually disappearing, as the work takes time and does not bring much economic benefit. (reference: www.heritage.go.kr)
South Korea -
Nubi(누비, 縷緋)
Nubi is a sewing made by inserting cotton between two pieces of cloth and sewing it like a thread. It is practical because it can maintain the original shape of the clothes without losing the shape of the seam after washing. I had an experience making baby clothes out of Nubi. I had a precious experience of sewing one by one, thinking about the wearer like my ancestors did in the past.
South Korea