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ICH Elements 26
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Making of horse brand
Horse branding is a one of the most respected household items made by a balcksmith. Mongolian horse-brand are shaped into symbols that are associated with the tribes or ethnic groups to which the nomadic herder belongs. The culture of the brand of nomadic Mongol was written on the historical sources and evidences over 4000 and 5000 years ago. Every brand is different and never duplicated. The livestock brand is classified into 3 different categories as brand on hair, brand on surface of skin, brand on body. Mongols brand the horses and camels, and mostly do branding to young horses (in age of foul) in autumn and do branding feast within families. Horse brand is very important marks to herders to recognize their animals, therefore herders say this word “Altan biyend aman gerch, aduu mald tamga gerch” as “Tongue is expression of our body, and the brand is the evidence of horse and livestock”.
Mongolia -
Jewelry art
Jewelry is a type of decorative and applied art: the manufacture of art jewelry, household items and others from precious metals (gold, silver), often in combination with precious and crafting stones, as well as artistic products from other metals (bronze, copper), made with fine craftsmanship. Jewelry art is one of the most ancient types of folk art of Uzbekistan, which has retained its vitality to this day. Major centers of this art in the XIX-ХХ centuries were located in Bukhara, Khiva, Tashkent, Samarkand, Margilan, Qoqand, Qarshi, Shahrisabz and Kitab. Depending on the functional purpose, jewelry can be divided into several types. Sometimes jewelry, used for the same functional purpose but created in different regions of Uzbekistan, bore different names.
Uzbekistan -
Mongolian traditional art of Khöömei
The exact origin of the Khöömei art is unknown, but researchers suppose that it could have been developed in connection with argil (a throat timbre) epic telling vocal technique, shamanic calling and the play of the wooden tsuur flute. The history of Mongolian Khöömei dates back hundreds of years. The popularity of Khöömei among Mongolians has arisen as a result of close interaction between natural environment and human culture. Ethnomusicologists studying Khöömei mark it as an integral part in the ancient pastoralism that is still practiced today. This art has developed to mimic and imitate the sounds of animals, nature, wind and water. The wonder of the Khöömei art is its simultaneous melodies-overtone. In this way the Khöömei is a phenomenon which differentiates from other traditional arts based on human vocal organs. This is the reason of calling the Khöömei performer as “Human-Music” (Khun khugjim) which highlights its specificity from a “normal singer”. The meaning of Khöömei for its community is enormous. As the traditional art form, Khöömei is in close cohesion with the daily life of the Mongolian nomads. They perform Khöömei in the variety of social occasions ranged widely, from grand state ceremonies to the household festive events, associated with respective rituals, and customs. Khöömei is not only performed in social events, because Khöömei performance is often found during the herding, and even when lulling the baby, as well as in the evenings in the ger (Mongolian traditional yurt) in domestic context. Hence, Khöömei is an essential part of the identity, pride and continuity of Mongolian society. Therefore, it provides the concerned community with sense of unity and harmony, as well as continuous creativity. One of Khöömei’s social functions is that, it is used as a traditional pedagogic instrument in the social and art education and upbringing. This is because during the Khöömei transmission, a comprehensive knowledge, philosophy and wisdom on the correlation of human life and nature are transmitted at the same time. As an art form created and developed by the Mongolians, Tuvinians and other ethnic groups, and regarded as the classic art of nomadic civilization, Khöömei is one of the core performing arts that shape the Mongolian national arts in today’s Mongolia. Thus, it shows great influence on ensuring the visibility and enhancement of the living art of Mongolia. Khöömei is born by variety of ethnic groups as Khalkh, Bayad, Dörvöd, Uriankhai, Zakhchin, Tuva, Tsaatan in different locations, therefore there are a number of sub-classifications of Khöömei style, reflecting the special features and local flavors. This diversity is what constitutes the richness of Khöömei composition, and thus, each communities concerned are proud of their own unique styles and techniques while expressing themselves with such diversity. The governments of Mongolia, Russian Federation and PR China have been undertaking variety of measures for the effective enhancement and spread of Khöömei tradition, such as holding international meetings, workshops, competitions and performances on Khöömei. This shows the significance of Khöömei for the bearers and their will to safeguard, transmit and develop it in multinational level, which also promotes international interaction, mutual respect and intercultural dialogue. Researchers classify Khöömei’s vocalization into 2 styles: -The Kharkhiraa (deep Khöömei) vocal emission: The singer sings a drone in a normal voice, then he inhales deeply and, simultaneously pressing on his pharynx and abdomen, he produces a deep harmonic sound which vibrates one octave lower than the fundamental note produced. What you hear is in a very low-pitched register. The singer actually vibrates not only his vocal cords but also his arytenoid cartilage. It is this deep harmonic sound that is heard in the foreground and that characterizes the kharkhiraa style, although in some variants a melody of high-pitched harmonics can be heard above the fundamental sound. -The Isgeree Khöömei (whistled Khöömei) emission: Also called Nariin Khöömei, Uyangiin Khöömei, Altain shingen Khöömei. The singer sings a drone in a normal voice, then he inhales deeply and, still pressing simultaneously on his pharynx and abdomen he produces a harmonic sound, which vibrates several octaves above the fundamental sound. A melody of harmonics with a very high-pitched whistle can then be heard. In both cases, the harmonic melody is sung in the same fashion. The singer modulates his mouth cavity by opening and closing his lips or by moving his tongue backwards, sticking its tip on his palate, or else by moving the central part of his tongue from front to back, its tip against his bottom teeth. To this are added techniques aiming to enrich the tone colour and others of ornamental character. Moreover, all these techniques can be combined. Inside more than 20 techniques, we can find the Bagalzuuriin Khöömei (throat Khöömei) Tsuurai Khöömei (echo Khöömei) Khamriin Khöömei (nasal Khöömei) or Dangildakh Khöömei (syllabial Khöömei). The singers use the Shakhaa vocal emission to sing the magtaal praise songs with a throat timbre as well. It is necessary to intensifying and deepening the Khöömei research and studies particularly on the originality and authenticity of the heritage in order to identify and reveal the deeper form, techniques and specifications furthermore.
Mongolia 2010 -
Zardozlik (gold embroidery)
Type of traditional embroidery which was widely spread in applied design art of Uzbekistan, Gold embroidery was revived at the middle of XXth Century. It's formation goes back to ancient history. At the end of the XIX – beginning of the ХХ century especially Bukhara was the center of crafts associated with gold embroidery. Notably, at that time gold embroidery was mostly dealt by men. But in some cases, when there were more orders than expected, women (who were close relatives of gold embroiderers) could act in the role of assistants. Bukhara gold embroiderers applied several methods of embroidering. These were: 1) "zardozi-zamindozi" – solid embroidering of the background with gold threads 2) "zardozi-guldozi" – embroidering based on design (image), which is cut out from paper 3) "zardozi-guldozi-zamindozi" – a combined method of embroidering, which unites the above-mentioned two methods 4) "zardozi-berishimdozi" –combined embroidering 5) "zardozi-pulakchadozi" –gold embroidering with spangles. Ornamentation in gold embroidery was predominantly of vegetative nature. Geometric patterns were used less often. Main motifs were rosettes, palmettes, bushes, trees, branches, flowerpots with flowers, almonds, pomegranates, cherries and grapes. Usage of certain vegetative motifs, for example, of "guli-chinni" (chrysanthemum), "guli-qashqari" (Kashgar flower), testify to the fact that pictures of Chinese porcelain (since ancient times it was imported to Central Asia and was popular among elites of Bukhara in the XIX – beginning of the XX century), were borrowed and adapted by Bukhara gold embroiderers.
Uzbekistan
ICH Materials 65
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Songket: Each Thread Embodies Passion
Songket is Malaysia’s traditional gold thread textile technique that creates certain motifs with gold threads woven into plain weaves. Alam Melayu, which is found in the songket pattern and refers to the concept of the Malay world, represents not only beauty but also a symbol of Malay identity and pride.\n\nThe process requires great dedication and absolute precision, while aesthetic beauty and weaving artistry represent a priceless legacy of the Malay community. This video shares the stories and thoughts of a scholar with decades of experience exploring Malay textiles, as well as a songket artisan and a business owner.
Malaysia 2019 -
2. Case of Kyrgyzstan: Influences and Effects of ICH Festivals on Local Communities
The ICH festivals in the Kyrgyz Republic are a great way to safeguard the cultural heritage. Kyrgyzstan has a rich ICH and embraces all ICH domains including the oral traditions andexpressions, performing arts, social practices, rituals and festive event, knowledge and practices concerning nature and the universe, and traditional craftsmanship. Festivals feature various ICH domains such as arts and crafts, cuisine, folklore, felt, hunting with birds, horse games, etc. For instance, the festivals Kyrgyz Shyrdagy and the Oimo International Festival are held with the aim of safeguarding and popularizing traditional knowledge and skills of handicrafts, for safeguarding and promoting traditional games, various birds of prey festivals are held, such as Salbuurun and Kok Boru. Moreover, festivals are dedicated to safeguarding oral traditions, such as Aitysh, the art of improvisation as well as many other festivals reflecting traditional cuisine, folklore, etc.
South Korea 2020-11-18
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THE METALLIC THREAD OF MALAY EMBROIDERYHistorically, Malaysia (the Malay Peninsula) was known as the Golden Chersonese, and in the past, Malay populations lived in riverine and coastal settlements, which were some of the most important trading hubs in Southeast Asia. The Malay maritime empire was once a large kingdom, stretching from the coast of Vietnam and Cambodia to Southern Thailand, the Malay Peninsula, Singapore, Borneo, Sumatra, Riau, Sulawesi, and Southern Philippines. Across the Malay-speaking world, fabrics embellished with gold were for the rich and powerful, such as the ruler of the kingdom. Besides the golden fabric, songket, Malay embroideries were mostly used by nobility and royals. In the fifteenth century, the Melaka Sultanate instituted sumptuary laws governing the types of ornaments and colors for interior and soft furnishings, such as curtain fringes, bolster ends, cushions, prayer mats and other items. Across the Malay world, the numbers of dais, bolsters, and layers of siting mats, were associated with a certain hierarchy, varying across the regions.Year2018NationSouth Korea
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The Art of Embroidery: Subregional Networking on Multinational NominationThe art of embroidery is one of the ancient traditions of applied and decorative arts in Central Asia. The uniqueness and beauty of Central Asian embroidery, the abundance and diversity of its ornaments and techniques testify to the rich traditions of this art. Embroidery is widespread mainly in trade and handicraft cities and large villages along the Silk Roads in Central Asia. Each existing traditional schools have a unique symbol, style and color balance based on local knowledge and social practices.\n\nEmbroidery is common activity among women in Central Asia. Traditionally, women and girls embroider individually and in groups. Embroidery is passed down from generation to generation, mainly from mother to daughter, in the form of master-apprentice schools. Indigenous population in Central Asia wear embroidered items, it serves as a symbol of their devotion to their homeland and culture. It is especially found at craft fairs, festivals, contests, weddings and social festivities.\n\nNetworking on elaboration of the multinational nomination “The Art of Embroidery” in Central Asia was initiated by the NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan (“Umrboqiy Meros”) in May 2019. Main objectives of the networking were to strengthen collaboration among scholars and artisans in Central Asia and to promote joint safeguarding activities by inventory of traditional schools on art of embroidery in Central Asia.\n\nAd hoc working group has been created, which consisted of representatives from ICH stakeholders (governmental and non-governmental organizations, artisans and scholars) from Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Offline and online meetings of the working group were organized from May 2019 to March 2020 on the monthly basis. In every meeting experts exchanged views on current status, development perspectives and safeguarding challenges of the art of embroidery in their countries.\n\nIt has been observed that element is practiced and transmitted almost in all the regions of three countries: Uzbekistan (especially in the centers of artistic embroidery such as Djizak, Fergana, Namangan, Nukus, Nurata, Bukhara, Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Urgut, Tashkent, as well as other rural areas), Tajikistan(mostly in Dushanbe, Khujand, Kulob, Istaravshan, Bokhtar, Panjakent, Hisar, Gharm, Darvaz, Khorogh, as well as other cities and regional centres) and Kazakhstan (Eastern/Altay, South-Eastern/Almaty and Nothern/Mangystau and since last century in Western parts of the country). Annually, traditional textile festivals in Central Asia are being organized in Kazakhstan (“Korpefest”, “Kazakhstan oneri”, “Altyn sapa”), Uzbekistan (“Atlas Bayrami”, “Silk and Spices”, “Altin Kul”, “Raks Sekhri”, “Boysun Bahori”) and Tajikistan (“Diyori husn”, “Taronai Chakan”, “Idi Atlas”), where many masters from these countries and also from various regions of Central Asia participate and display their handmade art products. This kind of cultural events are proper places for exchanging knowledge and establishing dialogue among societies, groups and individual masters.\n\nThe multinational nomination “Traditional embroidery of Central Asia” was successfully completed and submitted to the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris in March 2020 by the National Commission of Uzbekistan for UNESCO. The nomination will be examined by the ICH Intergovernmental Committee in 2022.\n\nAs follow up activity, following institutional members of the working group became coordinators for ICHCAP/IICAS Survey Project on Silk Roads Handicrafts Workshops, which was started in July 2021: Kazakhstan National Committee for the Safeguarding of the ICH, Institute of Culture and Information of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tajikistan and NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan.\n\nphoto : © Lutfiya MirzaevaYear2021NationCentral Asia
Open Archive 3
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Fading Cultures of Bhutan
Bhutan is one of the world's smallest countries, but its cultural diversity and richness are remarkable. As a result, a considerable emphasis is placed on promoting and preserving its own culture. It is hoped that by safeguarding and nurturing Bhutan's living culture, the nation's sovereignty will be preserved. However, the Kingdom of Bhutan is undergoing tremendous transformation in the social, cultural, economic, and political spheres, resulting in unprecedented social confusion and stress. As a child, I liked photography and travel, and now I enjoy sharing stories via photographs. Our country, although rich in culture, is currently at a crossroads between modernisation and cultural preservation; with the improvement of living standards, it is difficult to see age-old practices and traditions being practiced. Everything from the way we travel to the food we eat, the language we speak, and the clothes we wear is changing and, in some cases, fading as time passes. These images serve as harsh reminders of how a country's intangible cultures and heritage are disappearing.
Bhutan -
Wadangmet: The Dancing festival of Chhilings
Wadangmet, also known as Papani, is one of the greatest festivals of the Chhiling Rai people from the eastern hills of Nepal. Just after the Nepali Tihar festival (Sep/Oct) is celebrated, every Rai household in the community takes out the Dhol and Jhymta, musical instruments which are kept hidden in the house for a whole year. Pulling out these instruments signals the beginning of the festival which lasts for 1-2 weeks. My 80-year-old grandmother loved telling this and many other stories about the Rai culture. It is believed that divine Rai deities, Ambirahang and Rexihang, children of Budahang come to the village and shower their blessings on the people. Budahang is the king of the gods. According to the Chhiling legend, Budahang’s children ran away and secretly got married, a serious violation of Rai social and traditional norms. For breaking the taboo, they were banished from the village. The villagers, however, decided that couple could visit the village for one week every year. Wadangmet is celebrated to welcome the return of the banished couple with singing and dancing. During their stay, the community does not perform any other rituals or worship other souls and spirits. The celebrations begin on the full moon in November. As an offering, the locals take one half kilogram of rice (mana dhurne) to the local priest’s house. This offering, on the first day of the festival, is made to the unholy couple to encourage their blessings of eternal life for family members. On the second day the people gather at the priest’s house and, during puja, offer a pig and two chickens to the siblings. The same day, they clean and worship in the village courtyards. On the third day, the villagers gather at the Mukhiya’s (the head of the village) house with Dhol and Jhyampta to perform traditional dancing. They cut another pig and share the feast. On the fourth day, every household offers a pig to Ashik Hang (the king of blessing) for a long and healthy life. At this time the household’s future for the coming year is forecasted by performing the “Tharkibahal or Mangla” ritual; a chicken is offered to gods. If a chicken bleeds it is believed that family members will have a peaceful and healthy life for the coming year. If the chicken doesn’t bleed the family will have one year of uncertainty. The celebration continues for a fifth day in another village. On the sixth day the raucous celebration continues at the Mukhiya’s house in another village. Traditionally, the day also used to be an occasion for joking and courting among boys and girls. They would meet, fall in love and many would practice bhagibibaha; they would elope and be considered married. Wadangmet is the happiest time of the year. It’s a festival to celebrate life, community, friendship, love, music and dance. The final day of the festival is MangPankha; seeing off the deities. This is a week-long celebration at the Priest’s house that includes more rice and chicken puja, singing, dancing and playing the hidden musical instruments. People dance for whole night (and drink) and when the sun rises, they once again bid farewell to forbidden couple. Achita, rice used for the pujas, is considered to cure diseases. They save it for medicinal use throughout the coming year. No one knows how or when this festival began. My grandmother was filled with myths and fascinating stories about ancestors and how they lived. Regrettably, many of these stories are being forgotten but, Wadangmet is alive and well. Long live the Chhilings Rai people!
Nepal -
Ihi-my first wedding to Bel
The picture above is my first marriage (according to Newar tradition) with the Bel fruit, along with my friends which is also known as a wooden apple. I was about 5 years old and had no idea about the wedding at all. Newars possess different cycles of rituals from birth to death. Wedding of a girl in Newari community possess a deep meaning and has great importance. Their wedding practices are unique too. A daughter born in a Newari community is married thrice. But not all marriages are with men (groom). The first marriage is performed before puberty with Bel fruit (Aegle marmelos), the second marriage is with the sun, and finally, the third marriage is with a man. Ihi, one of the most important rites of the Newar community, is an entrance ritual to the life cycle ritual of the Newar girl, which gives membership to the girl within the community. Young girls from age of 5-9, before their puberty, are married with bel fruit, the symbol of the Lord Bishnu, one of the gods in Hinduism. Hence, this function is related to marriage and divorce. After this marriage, Newar girl is, therefore, never believed to be a widow, even her real husband dies, because she has already married with eternal god, Lord Bishnu the god of sustainer. No less than other weddings, I was made ready for the wedding ceremony dressed up with my hair and makeup done. In Newar culture, during special ceremonies, people must clean from head to toe. Naunis (a traditional barber and pedicurist in the Newar community) are invited for nail trimming. Naunis cut nails and put “Ala” (a red pigment), around hands and feet (like in the second picture), which is a traditional pedicure for women in Newari culture. After all preparation, we were taken to the temple of the Lord Bishnu for the wedding ceremony with the Bel. And after the ceremony, relatives came to me bringing gifts and cash. There was a feast afterward. These practices are of more than religious and cultural significance. Through these rituals and practices, young girls are taught about the change they have according to their age. They are even taught about the norm and values of the community as a member of it. Fortunately, Ihi is being practiced to the date, but the importance and meaning of Ihi are declining day by day. Rituals like this should be safeguarded and transmitted to the coming generation.
Nepal