ALL
textile arts
ICH Elements 19
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Traditional knowledge related to embroidering and making of 'Tush kiyiz’
Tush kiyiz represents intensely embroidered ornamental carpet used to decorate the house. It is of a rectangular shape and embroidered on different types of fabrics. Initially it was used for insulating purposes in the yurt. Most probably, the first wall carpets were made of felt, which is evident from its name: tush – meaning “outer” or “in front”, and kiyiz – meaning “felt.” tush kiyiz is an example of Kyrgyz embroidery. Embroidery is one of the most ancient and most wide-spread crafts of Kyrgyz people. During the centuries Kyrgyz women have developed their own ornamental style, which is dominated by vegetative and zoomorphic motifs such as the ornaments of leafs, branches, flowers as well as round and spiral patterns. Kyrgyz embroidery leaves a lot of room for artistic expression and improvisation. Some Kyrgyz women embroider without stencils based on their own memory and imagination.
Kyrgyzstan -
GULDUZI
Embroidery, needlepoint of ornaments with cotton, silk and wool threads on the fabrics. Each ornament has symbolic interpretation. Gulduzi needlework is used in decoration of costumes, curtains, covers and etc.
Tajikistan -
Songket
Songket is a traditional Malaysian handwoven fabric. It is woven on two-pedal floor looms by the Malay women In Malay Peninsula (West Malaysia) and in Sarawak (East Malaysia). The term Songket is derived from the technique employed to make it: inserting gold or silver thread in between the weft and warp threads. Songket is woven using the Malay weaving loom called 'kek'. Songket is woven as the supplementary weft method, a decorative weaving technique in which extra threads "float" across a colourful woven ground to create ornamental effect. The delicate piece of Songket is the result of many months of skilled handloom weaving by expert craftsmen who learn the art from their ancestors. The identity is traced by its design patterns that use geometry and elements of nature such as flowers, birds and insects. The motifs of tampuk manggis (mangosteen calyx), tampuk kesemak (persimmon), bunga pecah lapan (eight-petal flower), bunga bintang (star-patterned flower), pucuk rebung (bamboo shoots) and awan larat (trailing clouds) are among the most frequently used. These traditional patterns continue to be used, especially in aspects of separation and placing the various parts of the cloth such as the centerfield, main panel and end borders. Unlike the old days, Songket is only worn by royalty and their families. But todays, it is mostly worn as traditional Malay ceremonial costumes during royal installations, wedding, birth, Malay festive occasions and formal state functions.
Malaysia 2021 -
Tekemet-kiyiz - tradition of making felt carpet
Tekemet is the Kazakh felt carpet with inserted color pattern on the top of each other before rolling. Different tribes in Kazakhstan each have their designs. Tekemets similar to syrmak (another type of felt carpet), but has a vague and soft forms in connection with the peculiarities of production technology. Tekemets decorated by double horns ("qos muyіz") - horn curls arranged in a cruciform shape, usually within a rhombus and oval. White or grey ornaments were selected, which bursted on the brown main background of felt. In West Kazakhstan can be found "eki tekemets" (“ekі tekemet"), which are decorated on both sides. Patterned felting is one of the oldest types of Kazakh ornamentation. It is handmade from one color of felt (light or dark), combined with the natural color of camel's wool. Masters of Central Kazakhstan felt ornaments in different colors.
Kazakhstan
ICH Materials 55
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Making Ala-Kiyiz, the Method of Making Shyrdak
List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding, 2012\nAla-kiyiz is the most vivid example of Kyrgyz handicrafts. Translated as “motley felt,” ala-kiyiz represents a felt carpet with ornaments heaved onto its upper surface. It is mostly a carpet for everyday use rather than as element of decoration.\n\nShyrdak is made with a mosaic technique and is one of the most complex techniques in felt carpet making. One of the most important qualities of shyrdak is its durability. The average lifecycle of a shyrdak is approximately a hundred years, sometimes even longer.
Kyrgyzstan 2017 -
Songket: Each Thread Embodies Passion
Songket is Malaysia’s traditional gold thread textile technique that creates certain motifs with gold threads woven into plain weaves. Alam Melayu, which is found in the songket pattern and refers to the concept of the Malay world, represents not only beauty but also a symbol of Malay identity and pride.\n\nThe process requires great dedication and absolute precision, while aesthetic beauty and weaving artistry represent a priceless legacy of the Malay community. This video shares the stories and thoughts of a scholar with decades of experience exploring Malay textiles, as well as a songket artisan and a business owner.
Malaysia 2019
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The Journey Towards Knotted AccessoriesKnotting is, in essence, the act of tying a thread or a cord so that it does not come undone, while knot craft is the art of weaving together various shapes using threads or cords made through various methods in order to serve a certain physical or psychological purpose.\nThe origin of knotting can arguably be traced back to the advent of humanity itself. In primitive times, it was necessary to fashion cords and knots out of tree bark and grass for survival purposes in the context of the hunter-gatherer lifestyle; uses would have included tying or linking together hunting tools or carrying captured prey. With the advancement of humanity, however, knots surpassed their purely utilitarian purpose and evolved into craft items that are closely linked to everyday life, with the addition of various materials and crafting techniques. For example, each civilization has evolved its own knotting techniques and shapes influenced by its surrounding environment, to craft items such as belts or waist cords, baskets, and straw mats. Over time, knots have also become accessories worn for aesthetic purposes and ornamental items used to decorate the household, in addition to ritual items used in various ceremonies. In this regard, knots have surpassed their original survival and everyday life purposes to take on aesthetic and spiritual functions as well.Year2022NationSouth Korea
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THE METALLIC THREAD OF MALAY EMBROIDERYHistorically, Malaysia (the Malay Peninsula) was known as the Golden Chersonese, and in the past, Malay populations lived in riverine and coastal settlements, which were some of the most important trading hubs in Southeast Asia. The Malay maritime empire was once a large kingdom, stretching from the coast of Vietnam and Cambodia to Southern Thailand, the Malay Peninsula, Singapore, Borneo, Sumatra, Riau, Sulawesi, and Southern Philippines. Across the Malay-speaking world, fabrics embellished with gold were for the rich and powerful, such as the ruler of the kingdom. Besides the golden fabric, songket, Malay embroideries were mostly used by nobility and royals. In the fifteenth century, the Melaka Sultanate instituted sumptuary laws governing the types of ornaments and colors for interior and soft furnishings, such as curtain fringes, bolster ends, cushions, prayer mats and other items. Across the Malay world, the numbers of dais, bolsters, and layers of siting mats, were associated with a certain hierarchy, varying across the regions.Year2018NationSouth Korea