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fabric
ICH Elements 85
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Traditional knowledge related to the Kyrgyz ornaments
The ornament adorns all the objects surrounding the Kyrgyz from the moment of birth to the end of life. Nowadays, ornaments are very popular and used not only for decorating yurts and utensils but also for festive attires, jewelry, and souvenirs. Kyrgyz gave the patterns their own names identifying them with elements of their own and surroundings in the world around them. The shape of the symbols has reached us through the ages, almost unchanged. Kyrgyz ornaments include simple geometrical symbols, floral patterns, images of animals (both living and fantastic), nature, and stylized images of people. One of the most popular patterns are: ram’s horns, which repeats the image of this animal and represents prosperity or Umai ene, winged woman with a child, a spirit that represents fertility and protects mothers and babies. There are several types of Kyrgyz ornamental patterns: 1.\tPatterns symbolizing landscapes and other natural objects and processes such as Earth, a spring, eternal movement, Sun, Venus, star constellations, day and night, equinox; 2.\tPatterns symbolizing elements of animal kingdom such as raven claw, goose foot, ram horns, goat horns, a bird wing, a dog tail; 3.\tPatterns symbolizing elements of flora such as almond, clover, pomegranate, tulip; 4.\tPatterns symbolizing household objects as a comb, a lock, tip of a knife, köökör, a vessel for fermented milk; 5.\tPatterns with anthropomorphic elements.
Kyrgyzstan -
TOQIDUZI tuppiduzi
Craft of making embroidered skull-caps with different fabrics. There are different kinds of such traditional caps, like toqii chakan, zarduzi, iroqi, chusti and etc. Traditional caps are used by men, women, and children. Old men wear that under their turbans.
Tajikistan -
QALAMKASHI, qalamzani, gulkashi
Drowing ornament patterns on the fabrics for embroidery purpose. Usualy a rural artist drow such ornaments, then other women needlepoint them.
Tajikistan -
Ak-kalpak craftsmanship, traditional knowledge and skills in making and wearing Kyrgyz men’s headwear
Ak-kalpak is a traditional Kyrgyz felt headwear. Kalpak is appreciated and worn by all men regardless of age and status. Kalpak is one of the most iconic and recognizable elements of the Kyrgyz culture. The word Ak has several connotations in Kyrgyz language. One of the meanings is “sacred”, “pure”. The kalpak’s shape has not changed in centuries because this shape symbolizes the heights of surrounding mountains and the purity of the folk spirit. There are many varieties of kalpak. Based on various techniques of felting, cutting and sewing, there are more than 80 types of kalpak. Almost all kalpaks have embroidery patterns on them. Each pattern has its own sacral meaning and history. Two varieties are most popular at the moment. One has one small cut in front and the other one, called Bakai kalpak, has two cuts on the sides. Bakai kalpak is worn by people of older age. Various colors on kalpak edges are used to symbolize the age of the kalpak owner, although these rules are not set in stone and there are many exceptions to this rule in everyday life. -\tGreen edged kalpaks are for children. Young boys wore those kalpaks. Green is a color of youth and shows that they are at the beginning of their life paths. -\tBlue edge is a color for adolescents. This was the color for men over 20s. The color of sky symbolized maturing. - Brown edged kalpak was worn by men over 30 years old. Brown symbolized that the person already has a family and as a head of the family have accumulated enough life experience and is ready to serve the country. - A beige colored edge was worn by mature men over 40, when they could serve as an example for the younger generation. - Black edged kalpak was born by elderly men over 60. Black edge on a white felt symbolizes wisdom. An elderly widower wore a white kalpak with black felt edge. It meant that his kids allowed him to marry again. - The most honorable completely white kalpak was worn by wise elders. Such kalpak is given to acknowledge his leadership and authority.
Kyrgyzstan 2019 -
Pinisi, art of boatbuilding in South Sulawesi
“Pinisi”, literally referring to the rig and sails of the famed ‘Sulawesi schooner’, for both the Indonesian and international public has become the epitome of the Archipelago’s indigenous sailing craft. Construction and deployment of such vessels stand in the millennia-long tradition of Austronesian (‘Malayo-Polynesian’) boatbuilding and navigation that brought forth a broad variety of sophisticated watercraft, ranging from the outriggered boats that enabled man to migrate throughout the vast expanses of the Pacific and Indian Oceans to the massive ships encountered by the first European intruders into the Malay Archipelago. As in any maritime tradition, these practices involve sophisticated cognitive concepts that outline the three-dimensional form of a ship and its countless components as well as the advanced social organisation necessary to successfully build, operate and navigate trading vessels. Following centuries of mutual co-operation, the three communities now represent the pinnacle of the Archipelago’s boatbuilding and navigation traditions. In indigenous perception a ship’s hull is conceptionalised in the form of ‘plank patterns’ (tatta), i.e., comprehensive mental routines that delineate the configuration and assembly sequence of a hull’s planking, her inner strengthenings and the dowels holding planks and framing together. Deeply embedded into a series of rituals that complement the building process, these routines for many a traditional type of vessel define position, form and size of each plank, frame or dowel in a hull; for more contemporary ships the tatta provides an overall draught that can be adapted to changing constructional demands, thus facilitating perpetuation and enhancements.
Indonesia 2017 -
Traditional skills of carpet weaving in Kashan
The carpets woven in the city of Kashan can be defined as follows. Spreadable hand-woven materials consisting of a basic structure of strings made of cotton or silk interwoven in millimeter scales known as warp (Tar or Toon) on an erected framework known as ‘Dar’, while by means of wool or silk strings, and based on a colored design, appropriate knotting in harmony with the delicacy of the carpet are created on the surface. In the weaving style of Kashan, after each row of knots, cotton strings are extended two times from within the warps in horizontal direction known as ‘woofs’. Woofs are divided in two categories in terms of thickness: thick woof or under-woof is almost of the same thickness of warps, while thin woof or top-woof is as thick as reel strings. These woofs are pressed on woven knots by means of combs and make the carpet more strong and delicate. This style, known as Farsi weaving has a background of four hundred years in Kashan which is the pioneer of this style. The skills and elements involved in the process of production of these hand-woven carpets can be divided in certain categories: Carpeting Tools: 1- Weaving frame: is a wooden or metal framework consisting of two vertical columns and two horizontal beams. In addition, certain wooden accessories are used to reinforce the frame (wedges), while in metal frames, knots and jacks are also used. In order to control and move the strings in the course of weaving, two thin layers of woods are used. 2- Comb: is used for pressing the woofs after each row of weaving to make the carpet stronger and more delicate. 3- Stick: it is a metal belt with the width of 2 centimeters and length of 60 centimeters used to lead the woofs from among the warps. 4- Scissors: for cutting the tips of the woven strings after a number of rows as well as for leveling the surface of the carpet. 5- Bench: as a seat for the weaver, made of wood or metal. Carpeting Materials: 1- Warp: prepared multi-layered cotton or silk strings in proportion to delicacy of the carpet and required by the design will establish the basic structure of the carpet. In Kashan style, the warps are drawn on the ground and mantles on the frame. 2- Khameh: woolen two-layered colored strings in various sizes for knotting to warps in 90 degrees angle which serve as the thickness of carpet in appropriate sizes. 3- Woofs: cotton strings in two thicknesses: thick woofs equal in thickness with the warps, and thin woofs as thick as ordinary reel strings which are led through the warps after each row of weaving and is pressed with comb which strengthens the carpet. In full-silk carpets, silk woofs are applied. Design: in order to prepare the design of the carpet, which is the most artistic activity involved in carpeting, certain rules are followed, the most significant of which can be summarized as follows: A) Drawing is the general form and the first impression of the carpet which makes the basic design of the carpet in the first glance. The procedure that is followed in Kashan is as follows: 1- Lachak-Toranj design: is this design limited by a background cadre and consists of a central oval shape known as Toranj and rectangular surrounding shapes known as Lachak. Each Toranj has four surrounding Lachaks. Sometimes, the Toranj is in circular form, known as Shemeh. Lachaks are normally in harmony with Toranj. 2- Toranjafshan Design: the design consists merely of a Toranj in the middle covered with symmetrical flower and leaf designs, without Lachak. If the surface is without flowers and leaves and other forms, the design is known as simple Lachak-Toranj. 3- Lachakafshan: There is no Toranj in the design, only four Lachaks around. The remaining portion of the design is covered with flowers, leaves, and other symmetrical shapes. 4- Mehrabi Design: The surface is normally without Toranj. Only to Lachaks are located on the top corner, with ornamental religious designs. The surface is simple with an urn or columns around. 5- Overall design: a basic design theme is repeated all over the surface. Single forms such as Botteh-Jegheh, scattered bouquets, frames, flowers, etc are repeated over the surface. 6- Koomeh Design: short scattered trees together with birds and animals. B) Design is the combination of drawings, paintings, flowers, leaves, branches, animals and other forms which enliven the basic drawings by applying colors, each with its respective artistic identity inspired by nature, buildings, historical events, movements of living animals, and background mentalities of the designer and painter. Dyeing: Colors and dyeing materials: natural colors are more popular in Kashan, such as Ronas, walnut skin, pomegranate skin, vine leaves, etc. except for Ronas, other materials are among the waste natural materials. The masters of dyeing create very stable and beautiful color mixtures by using various types of natural pigments. Farsi weaving style also known as asymmetrical knotting is applied with exemplary delicacy in Kashan so that the back side of the carpet is made with equal longitudinal and latitudinal knots.
Iran 2010 -
Mongol garment
Mongol deel is a long gown with diagonal or square lapels that can be affixed on both sides. It is the main costume of the Mongol nations and it has lost neither its fundamental design nor style even after centuries of use. The ancientness of the design of the deel is suggested by the appearance of pre-historic people wearing sheep skin coats in ancient petroglyphs. The deel has developed to be compatible with the health, physiological characteristics, and daily life of the pastoral nomads of Mongolia. This garment is also uniquely suited to the harsh weather condition to which the Mongolian lifestyle has adapted. The accessories to the deel also serve many purposes: the long cuff at the end of the sleeves can be used as a glove or liner and the wide belt worn with the deel is designed for protection against kidney disease and back aches, while also serving as a blanket or pillow on long journeys.
Mongolia -
CHITGARI
Skills of applying ornaments through coloring and beating forms in fabrics. Decorated fabrics are used for dresses, table-cloth, curtain, bed cover and etc.
Tajikistan -
Hawker culture in Singapore, community dining and culinary practices in a multicultural urban context
Hawker Culture, involving the practice of dining and mingling at hawkers centres over food prepared by hawkers, is an integral part of the Singapore way of life. Evolved from street food culture, hawkers and hawker centres have become markers of Singapore as a multicultural city-state. During the formative years of Singapore’s independence, hawkers and local communities, with the assistance of the government, came together to develop hawker centres, providing stable livelihoods for hawkers and affordable meals for the population. Today, hawker centres across Singapore continue to serve the needs of diverse communities in residential, recreational and business districts.
Singapore 2020 -
Margilan Crafts Development Centre, safeguarding of the atlas and adras making traditional technologies
Historically, Margilan was the centre for making atlas and adras – vivid and fine traditional fabrics. Due to the acute need to revive and safeguard traditions at risk of disappearing, the local community came up with an initiative to launch the Crafts Development Centre (CDC) in 2007. The CDC’s goal is to safeguard, develop and promote the method of Uzbek traditional atlas and adras making through innovative training sessions, exhibitions and craft fairs, traditional textile festivals, and the publication of safeguarding materials and manuals. The CDC also promotes the use of natural materials, and supports the transmission of knowledge and skills about nature and the universe and their role in ensuring people’s health and wellbeing.
Uzbekistan 2017 -
GULBANDI gulbast
Skills of applying ornaments through coloring in fabrics.
Tajikistan -
SACHOQ- DUZI
Sewing and embroidering the towels. A style of embroidery with colored threads in the special checkered fabrics.
Tajikistan