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raw materials
ICH Elements 37
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Traditional art of Jamdani weaving
The art of Jamdani weaving is a time-consuming and labour-intensive form of fabric production by hand on a traditional loom built with wood and bamboo and with little use of metal. Jamdani weaving is based on the traditional knowledge and skills dating back to the fourth century BCE. The distinguishing hallmark of Jamdani weaving is that its designs are neither embroidered nor printed but created directly on the loom in the process of weaving. The product from this style of weaving is called Jamdani, a highly designed cotton fabric which owes its origin to Muslin, the finest and most transparent cotton cloth ever woven by human hand. Of classic beauty, Jamdani effectively combines intricacy of design with muted or vibrant colours. Jamdani is also a highly breathable cotton cloth which brings relief to its users in the hot and humid climatic condition of Bangladesh. The Jamdani weavers have remained in the weaving profession from generations to generations as a means of family livelihood. The element represents Bangladesh’s rich textile heritage, contains significant historic value and has been designated as a unique element of the intangible cultural heritage of the country. Jamdani weaving has survived and thrived due to growing popularity of Jamdani fabrics among Bengali women both at home and abroad. Almost the entire production of Jamdani is carried on in the form of sari, the principal dress of Bengali women. Sari is a long flowing piece of cloth, part of it wrapped around the waist, and the remaining climbs and flows over the shoulder. Women wear more charming or elaborately designed Jamdani saris during festivities and on formal occasions.
Bangladesh 2013 -
Traditional skills of carpet weaving in Kashan
The carpets woven in the city of Kashan can be defined as follows. Spreadable hand-woven materials consisting of a basic structure of strings made of cotton or silk interwoven in millimeter scales known as warp (Tar or Toon) on an erected framework known as ‘Dar’, while by means of wool or silk strings, and based on a colored design, appropriate knotting in harmony with the delicacy of the carpet are created on the surface. In the weaving style of Kashan, after each row of knots, cotton strings are extended two times from within the warps in horizontal direction known as ‘woofs’. Woofs are divided in two categories in terms of thickness: thick woof or under-woof is almost of the same thickness of warps, while thin woof or top-woof is as thick as reel strings. These woofs are pressed on woven knots by means of combs and make the carpet more strong and delicate. This style, known as Farsi weaving has a background of four hundred years in Kashan which is the pioneer of this style. The skills and elements involved in the process of production of these hand-woven carpets can be divided in certain categories: Carpeting Tools: 1- Weaving frame: is a wooden or metal framework consisting of two vertical columns and two horizontal beams. In addition, certain wooden accessories are used to reinforce the frame (wedges), while in metal frames, knots and jacks are also used. In order to control and move the strings in the course of weaving, two thin layers of woods are used. 2- Comb: is used for pressing the woofs after each row of weaving to make the carpet stronger and more delicate. 3- Stick: it is a metal belt with the width of 2 centimeters and length of 60 centimeters used to lead the woofs from among the warps. 4- Scissors: for cutting the tips of the woven strings after a number of rows as well as for leveling the surface of the carpet. 5- Bench: as a seat for the weaver, made of wood or metal. Carpeting Materials: 1- Warp: prepared multi-layered cotton or silk strings in proportion to delicacy of the carpet and required by the design will establish the basic structure of the carpet. In Kashan style, the warps are drawn on the ground and mantles on the frame. 2- Khameh: woolen two-layered colored strings in various sizes for knotting to warps in 90 degrees angle which serve as the thickness of carpet in appropriate sizes. 3- Woofs: cotton strings in two thicknesses: thick woofs equal in thickness with the warps, and thin woofs as thick as ordinary reel strings which are led through the warps after each row of weaving and is pressed with comb which strengthens the carpet. In full-silk carpets, silk woofs are applied. Design: in order to prepare the design of the carpet, which is the most artistic activity involved in carpeting, certain rules are followed, the most significant of which can be summarized as follows: A) Drawing is the general form and the first impression of the carpet which makes the basic design of the carpet in the first glance. The procedure that is followed in Kashan is as follows: 1- Lachak-Toranj design: is this design limited by a background cadre and consists of a central oval shape known as Toranj and rectangular surrounding shapes known as Lachak. Each Toranj has four surrounding Lachaks. Sometimes, the Toranj is in circular form, known as Shemeh. Lachaks are normally in harmony with Toranj. 2- Toranjafshan Design: the design consists merely of a Toranj in the middle covered with symmetrical flower and leaf designs, without Lachak. If the surface is without flowers and leaves and other forms, the design is known as simple Lachak-Toranj. 3- Lachakafshan: There is no Toranj in the design, only four Lachaks around. The remaining portion of the design is covered with flowers, leaves, and other symmetrical shapes. 4- Mehrabi Design: The surface is normally without Toranj. Only to Lachaks are located on the top corner, with ornamental religious designs. The surface is simple with an urn or columns around. 5- Overall design: a basic design theme is repeated all over the surface. Single forms such as Botteh-Jegheh, scattered bouquets, frames, flowers, etc are repeated over the surface. 6- Koomeh Design: short scattered trees together with birds and animals. B) Design is the combination of drawings, paintings, flowers, leaves, branches, animals and other forms which enliven the basic drawings by applying colors, each with its respective artistic identity inspired by nature, buildings, historical events, movements of living animals, and background mentalities of the designer and painter. Dyeing: Colors and dyeing materials: natural colors are more popular in Kashan, such as Ronas, walnut skin, pomegranate skin, vine leaves, etc. except for Ronas, other materials are among the waste natural materials. The masters of dyeing create very stable and beautiful color mixtures by using various types of natural pigments. Farsi weaving style also known as asymmetrical knotting is applied with exemplary delicacy in Kashan so that the back side of the carpet is made with equal longitudinal and latitudinal knots.
Iran 2010 -
Raiho-shin, ritual visits of deities in masks and costumes
Raiho-shin rituals take place annually in various regions of Japan on days that mark the year’s beginning or days when seasons change. Such rituals stem from folk beliefs that deities from the outer world—Raiho-shin—visit communities and usher in the new year or new season with happiness and good luck. Local people dressed as deities in outlandish costumes and frightening masks visit houses, admonishing the lazy and teaching children to behave well. The head of the household treats the deities to a special meal to conclude the visit. In some communities, the rituals are held in the streets. Because the rituals have developed in regions with different social and historical contexts, they are diverse in form. For example, Suneka of Yoshihama have abalone shells dangling from their hips, whereas Kasedori of Mishima wear bamboo hats. The various appearances reflect different regional characteristics. The people who play a role as Raiho-shin also vary regionally. In some communities, men of a certain age become Raiho-shin, and in others, women play such roles. By performing the rituals, local people—notably children—have their identities molded; they develop a sense of affiliation to the community and strengthen ties among themselves. In accordance with their ancestors’ teachings, community members share responsibilities and cooperate in preparing and performing the rituals. Some prepare masks and costumes, some play a role as Raiho-shin, and others welcome Raiho-shin into their houses. Only when this ritual is over can community members look forward to a year free from misfortune.
Japan 2018 -
Tradition of kimchi-making in the Democratic People's Republic of Korea
Kimchi is a vegetable dish which is made by seasoning various vegetables or wild edible greens with spices, fruits, meat, fish or fermented seafood before undergoing lactic fermentation. In this course, tastes of the ingredients blend well producing a unique flavour. The tradition of Kimchi-making dates back to the 10th century and it has hundreds of variants. As rice typifies the staple food of the Koreans, so does Kimchi, the Korean’s side dish. It is served not only at every meal but also on special occasions such as weddings, holidays, birthday parties and memorial services for the deceased as well as state banquets. The daily consumption of Kimchi by Koreans is great in amount. Each Kimchi variant differs in ingredients and recipes according to seasons and localities. It has remarkable nutrition values as well. Koreans take it for granted that they help each other in Kimchi-making among neighbours, relatives or workplace colleagues. In this practice they boast their Kimchi, give advices on skills and congratulate each other on their successful Kimchi-making.
North Korea 2015 -
Traditional turkmen carpet making art in Turkmenistan
The traditional turkmen carpets and carpet products are the hand-woven woollen textile goods of ornamental art with quadrangular shape in different sizes with dense texture ornamented with characteristic colored patterns pertaining each separately to one of five main turkmen tribes (tekke, yomut, ersary, saryk and salor). Their designs form patterns from clear linear geometric ornaments (dots, lines and figures). Compositional decision of the turkmen carpets has characteristic features: the central field with major patterns ("gels") in octagonal forms is limited with the borders, patterns which differ from that of the central field. The alternation of recurrence of designs represented with combination of the belt and centric ornamental compositions. Reality surrounding a carpet weaver (local flora, fauna and environment) has been reflected in a combination of the threads, pictures and colours creating carpet designs. The turkmen carpets are created on horizontal or vertical looms mainly using different coloured wool threads. Weavers use both types of knotting; double knots with double weft or one-and-a half knot with double weft. Carpets serve both as a floor covering and a wall decoration functions and substitute furniture to satisfy everyday aesthetic needs of turkmen people. There are also special carpets woven for the birth of a child, for wedding ceremonies, for prayers and for mourning rituals. Carpet products such as chuvals (sacks), khorjuns (saddle-bags), torbas (bags) are destined for clothing, transportation of various household paraphernalia and used for decorations of camels, horses, nomad tents, wedding processions etc.
Turkmenistan 2019 -
Traditional Li textile techniques: spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidering
The traditional Li textile techniques of spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidering are employed by women of the Li ethnic group of Hainan Province, China, to make cotton, hemp and other fibres into clothing and other daily necessities. The techniques involved, including warp ikat, double-face embroidery, and single-face jacquard weaving, are passed down from mothers to daughters from early childhood through verbal instruction and personal demonstration.
China 2009 -
Deyshing pako-shub ni: Daphne bark Harvesting
The art of traditional paper making in Bhutan stems from an age-old handicraft tradition whose history can be traced back to the eight century during the reign of Gyelpo Khikhar Rhathor in Bumthang?, used by monasteries for woodblock and manuscript and also for writing prayer books, says Mr. Gonpola , the only Desho paper manufacturer in Bumdeling, Tashiyangtse. It is said that Mr. Tsheten Dorji from Yangtse, Who was Dzongsungpa (Care taker) then, was trained at Bumthang. It is he who actually brought the idea of making Deysho paper to Tashiyangtse. Mr. Tsheten Dorji had trained Mr. Gonpola and a few other friends at Rigsum Gonpa in and around 1971. Daphne bholua is a deciduous and evergreen shrubs in the family Thymelaeaceae, native to Asia, Europe and North Africa. It grows at an altitude of 1700-3500m in the Himalayas and neighboring mountain ranges. It is found in pastures and grassy glades and reaches a height of about 2.5m, however some specimens reach 4m. Daphne bholua has leathery leaves and pink- white flowers with strong fragrance. In Bhutan it is used for making hand-made paper ‘deysho’. Another species of Daphne ‘Edgeworthia gardneri’ (Deykhar) is also used for making desho paper in some part of Bhutan. It is found commonly in southern part of the country. However in Bumdeling, Daphne bholua ‘Deynag’ is widely used for making Deysho paper. Daphne ‘Deynag’ can be abundantly found in places like Tarphel, Cheng, Longkhar, Sanyne, Ngalingmang, Phanteng.
Bhutan -
Death Ritual of Lhop Communities
Death is often considered as a great loss but not more than the fear incurred from the unnatural deaths; such as accidents from falling off a tree or death caused due to an encounter with wild animals as they strongly believe that death has been caused from dishonoring the deities or by evil spirits or by bad spells from somebody. They conduct very elaborate ceremonies to appease the spirit of the deceased and deities, especially the deceased with food and drinks so as to prevent misfortune to the surviving people. Lhops believe in the dual existence; that when death occurs, the soul, Se-hok, leaves the body and dwells in the emptiness for certain period and later joins the world of Sim-pu (death).
Bhutan -
Culture of Çay (tea), a symbol of identity, hospitality and social interaction
Tea culture is an essential part of social and cultural life and is an important social practice aiming to show hospitality, celebrate important moments in lives of communities and helping them to build and maintain social relationships and enjoy moments by drinking tea for social exchange and interaction. It also represents knowledge, traditions and skills linked to cultivating, preparing and drinking tea by communities in Turkey and Azerbaijan. Tea is an agricultural plant the leaves and buds of which are used to make beverage. Tea plant transforms into dried leaves after steps such as plucking, withering, disruption, oxidation and drying. Although there are different types and brewing techniques in both countries, communities harvest and consume mostly the black tea. Traditional techniques used in preparing and harvesting tea led to development of special tools and vessels such as teapots, samovars, silver tray, woven tea baskets and tea plucking shear. Communities brew tea by using a great variety of kettles, produced in traditional craftsmanship, called “çaydan” or “çaynik” in Azerbaijan, a double container called "çaydanlık" (tea pot) in Turkey and samovar in both countries. Water is boiled in the larger pot and tea leaves are added to the smallest pot. Samovar is a traditional copper, clay, metal or brass container used to heat and boil water for brewing tea in smaller teapot, which is put on samovar. This method allows people to drink tea as they desire: strong or light. In rural areas especially, communities use metal samovars or “çaydanlık” heated with wood. Tea is traditionally served in special pear-shaped cups called “armudu” (literally, “pear-like”), made from glass, porcelain, faience, and silver in Azerbaijan and similarly small tulip-shaped glass, which is called “ince belli bardak” (thin waist glass) in Turkey. Communities traditionally serve tea freshly, brewed and hot, accompanied with various sweets, pastry, sugar, slices of lemon, jams and dried fruits. In different regions of Azerbaijan, communities also add local spices and herbs to tea, such as cinnamon, ginger and thyme. There is a special style of drinking tea with sugar called “kıtlama” or “dishleme” in both countries. In this style, tea is drunk by placing a piece of sugar between tongue and chin instead of pouring sugar directly into glass.
Azerbaijan,Turkey 2022 -
Jato: Traditional Grinding Stone
Jato is a grinding stone made from hard stones mined from the river valleys. Not all stones can be used in making the element. There are two types of grinding stones. The best quality granite is called Kuring (black hard stone). The grinding stone for maize is usually big and rough and grinding stone for millet is smooth. The grinding stone for millet can be any hard big in size stones. Grinding stone for maize is obtained from the cliff of the river valley. It is a thick circular flat stone where the lower part of the element is usually bigger than the upper part. The inside surface is rough to grind maize while the Jato for grinding millet has smooth surface inside and the shapes are similar yet the size is usually smaller than the grinding stone for maize. The use of Jato dates back to time immemorial. People in the villages used the element in grinding maize and millet. It was also used for bartering essentials items when economic status was so limited. They made the element depending on the order of the customers then and now it has declined due to the emergence of electronic machines/varying gadgets.
Bhutan -
Marble Sculpturing in Non Nước
Mr. Huỳnh Bá Quát played a pivotal role in introducing stone carving from Thanh Hóa to Non Nước. The villagers commemorate both the village festival and the anniversary of their ancestors' deaths on the sixteenth day of the third lunar month each year. For their part, the stone masons celebrate the arrival of spring with an ancestral ceremony on January 6. Stone carvers pass on their craft from father to son. Because the method of teaching the job is to teach the job by hand, the team of workers is divided into three basic levels: apprentices, secondảy workers, and master workers. Rough stone/marble miners are called “Civil Mandarin”. The worker who creates the raw product is called "Military Mandarin". Craft tools used in stone sculpture include sledgehammers, crowbars; the soar, the touch; nasal hooves; tarpaulin; nose tick; corn nose; Measure; saws sawing stones and saws cutting rings; drill; and grater. The process of developing a product involves mining and choosing raw stone, making blanks (figuring out the base, making drawings and prints, chiseling blanks, forming products), engraving patterns, embellishing forms, grinding and polishing products. To achieve a stunning color, the laborer needs to apply food coloring to the stone along with bits of green tea, brown shoe polish, and indigo. Based on usage, products include products serving daily needs (flower vases, column bases, teapots) and products serving spiritual needs (feng shui objects, statues, portraits, mausoleums, tombs).
Viet Nam -
Traditional craftsmanship of making Dumbara Ratā Kalāla
Element relates to the traditional craftsmanship of making a type of mat used as wall-hangings, tapestries or cushion-covers, ornamented with culturally defined motifs and designs using the fibre of Hana plant (Agave vera). This fibre is a substitute for the traditionally used fibre of Niyanda plant (Sansevieria zeylanica) that became scarce in the area by early 20th century. Fibre is separated by pressing the leaf against a log with a sharp-edged wooden splinter to scrape away the fleshy parts. Washed, sun-dried, and combed fibres of ivory-white colour are bundled as skeins. Warp-yarn is spun using a wooden spindle. The spinner wraps a fibre bundle around the chest over the left shoulder and spins by pulling fibre strands from the bundle. Unspun fibre strands are used as weft elements. Yarns and unspun fibre are dyed in red, yellow, and black using traditional herbal dyes made of natural materials from Dumbara valley. Motifs and designs are created using a flat narrow wooden lath with an 'eye' at one end. The weaver, squatting over the loom, passes the lath's eye-end through the warp-yarns from right to left selectively depending on the intended motif. Strands of fibre pulled from the heddles that suspend from a tripod placed over the loom are inserted into the lath's eye that is pulled back through the yarns to create the desired motif. After weaving, ends of fibre at the two narrow ends are tied together using a thread drawn through to which the fibre ends are knotted.
Sri Lanka 2021