ALL
textile
ICH Elements 62
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Traditional knowledge related to piled carpet technique
Today, piled weaving is vividly demonstrated in the patterned piled carpets that are distinguished by their quality and durability. Sheep, caprine or camel hair is used for base of the carpets. Piled carpets are original and colorful as are other items of the applied and decorative arts of the Kyrgyz. Kyrgyz piled carpets, are weaved on a simple horizontal machine – ‘dyukoun’. Instruments of masters also include wooden comb – ‘tokmok’, which is used to nail picks and piles, a knife – to cut piled threads, and scissors – to trim the piles. Geometrical shapes are prevailing in the Kyrgyz piled carpets. These are: squares with jogged edges or elongated endings – ‘omurtka’, triangles – ‘tumarcha’, cross shaped figures – ‘chaidosh’, simple or stepped rhombs – ‘it taman’, star shaped forms – ‘jyldyz’ as well as various octangulars and etc. Plant and horn shaped motifs are also present in the ornaments such as ‘toguz doubou’ (nine hills), ‘alma kouchout’ (apple pattern) and etc.
Kyrgyzstan -
Embroidery art
Embroidery is a type of needlework. Beauty of Uzbek embroidery, ancient origins of its patterns and diversity of techniques applied indicate to the fact that this craft has passed a lengthy process of historical development, and has rich traditions. Large-sized decorative embroidery can be divided into several types: suzani (wall-mounted panels; literally - "needle"), nimsuzani (literally - "half of suzani"), ruyidjo, joypush yakkandoz and choyshab (bedspreads and bedsheets), takyanpush (pillow coverlet), oy-palak and gulkorpa (Tashkent versions of suzani), sandalipush (coverlet for sandal), zardevor, dorpech or kirpech (embroidery used for decorating upper parts of walls), joynamoz (prayer rug), bugdjoma (coverlet for blanket), beshikpush (coverlet for cradle), etc. Embroidered items of small size are represented by oyna-khalta and shona-khalta (sacks for keeping mirror and comb), qiyiqcha, miyonband, chorsu and belbogh (versions of men's waist kerchiefs), doppi (skullcap), sarpokkun, qoziqlungi and tanpokkun (long towels with embroidered ends), bugjoma (linen used for wrapping dress), sarandoz and romoli-peshonaband (types of head shawls and headdresses for women), dast romol (handkerchiefs), jiyak (embroidered edges used for decorating certain elements of a dress), etc. Ornamental pattern and composition of embroidery depended on its practical purpose (i.e. for what purposes it was used). Main embroidery motifs are symbols of cosmogonic origin (i.e. sun, moon, stars in the form of large and small rosettes), vegetative and geometric patterns, stylized images of animals and birds. For embroidery of Uzbekistan peculiar is application of distinct technique of sewing, i.e. complete sewing of large surfaces of the pattern, and leaving (relatively) small area for the background. Also, different types of one-sided satin-stitch and chain-stitch are used, which fill motifs of an ornament completely. Satin-stich can be of two types, i.e. "bosma" and "kanda-hayol". There are different types, patterns and traditions of embroidery, depending on their belonging to their respective regions: Bukhara, Fergana, Shakhrisabz, Nurata, Tashkent, Fergana, etc.
Uzbekistan -
Calligraphy art
Calligraphy is one of the branches of fine art, it is also often called the art of beautiful writing. Calligraphers of Central Asia actively developed their craft and thus brought it to the level of art. There were even separate schools of calligraphy: Tashkent, Kokand, Khorezm, Samarkand and Bukhara. Each school had its own distinctive features, and experts could easily determine who wrote this or that inscription. Various styles of Arabic writing began to be used in architecture, carving and painting on ganch and wood. She was even present in the design of household utensils, clothing and other types of artistic creation. Among the most common writing styles are naskh, raikhani, rivo, suls, kufic and others.
Uzbekistan -
Traditional craftsmanship of zodog and shuudag (wrestling costume)
One of the uniqueness of Mongolian wrestling is wrestling costumes which consist of a hat, zodog (jacket), shuudag (briefs), boots, stockings and boots’ bindings. Zodog (jacket) and shuudag (brief) are a traditional costume of Mongolian wrestlers. The costimes made of silk, textiles and stitched with pliable and strong threads afford a wrestler the ability to hold his opponent during the wrestling bout. Zodog and shuudag adapt themselves to the shape of wrestler’s brawny body. This tight costume greatly affords a wrestler’s comfort to move as well. Only a few specialized masters craft the zodog and shuudag by their hands.
Mongolia -
ZARDUZI
A kind of sewing ornaments on the fabrics with yellow-golden threads. Golden embroidered ornaments are used in the different dresses. Together with threads are applied jewelers, small precious stones, marbles and etc.
Tajikistan -
NAMADREZI namadmoli
Craft of making felt carpet with wool of ships and sometimes wool of goats. Felt makers decorate the felt carpets with traditional ornaments and different co-lors.
Tajikistan -
GULBANDI gulbast
Skills of applying ornaments through coloring in fabrics.
Tajikistan -
DARAVSHDUZI, yirmadizi, yurmaduzi
A traditional kind of embroidering the fabrics for sewing dresses, scarf, curtain and other articles. It is performed in tambourine with special tool daravsh (awl).
Tajikistan -
QUROQDUZI, poraduzi, quramaduzi, tarkduzi, gulburi
A traditional method of embroidering the fabrics with small parts of fabrics. Qurog embroidered fabric can be used for sewing dresses, tablecloth, blanket, scarf, curtain and other articles.
Tajikistan -
RAGHZABOFI
A traditional craft of weaving thread with wool of sheep. Masters using this wool threads make chakman (overcoat), felt boots, socks, ropes.
Tajikistan -
KURPADUZI
Quilt sewing. Quilts and quilted mattresses are often used staff in the Tajik everyday life. Sewers usually sew quilt from cotton fabrics. There different kinds of quilts, like quroqi, embroidered, makhmali.
Tajikistan -
Traditional knowledge related to patchwork techniques ‘Kurak’
Kurak is a Kyrgyz craft of quilting. Quilting is a process of sewing pieces of fabric together, which at the end create a common pattern. Pieces of fabric, leather and felt of various size and color are used for quilting. Kyrgyz people say that kurak is a renewal of the old, creation of something big from something small. Nowadays, kurak is still very popular craft in the Kyrgyz Republic. Quilted items are always included into a bride’s dowry. Many household items such as blankets, pillow cases, wedding curtains, table cloths, spoon bags, tea bags and other items are quilted. The quilting techniques can be divided into two categories: 1.\tquilting that uses triangular and rectangular pieces of fabric of different color arranged in a way that creates sophisticated patterns; 2.\tquilting done with thin strips of fabric of different color. One of the most wide-spread patterns is black triangle on a white background called tumracha (small amulet) or turna (crane). Another ancient ornament used in quilting is a black square put on one of the inside angles of a white square. This ornament is called boto köz (baby camel’s eye). There are more sophisticated patterns. For example, kattama kurak (layered quilting) is a square with triangles going around it. A red square and white triangles make a pattern called alma kurak (apple quilting). A square with diagonals made out of lozenges and triangles is called scissor quilting. It is used to decorate various pillows and cushions.
Kyrgyzstan