Materials
clothing
ICH Materials 189
Photos
(34)-
Women in the process of making traditional clothing
Kyrgyzstan -
Belt
The belt represents one's social status and wealth. There are a variety of belts found in Mongolia, including belts that are knitted and others that are made from cloth, leather, hide, and even silver and gold. Aristocrats of the nomadic pastoral peoples of the past would use belts made of various precious metals, on which delicate ornaments would be engraved and gemstones inlayed. This kind of belt was called an agsargan bits. It also had metal decorations from which the wearer would hang their sword, knife, and bow case. There was an ancient tradition that Mongolian men, when they established a friendship with another, would exchange their belts as a wish for continuous peace and unity with one another. It is said that aristocrats of the past would also engrave three, five, seven, or nine dragons on their gold or silver belts as a sign of reverence to this mythic beast.
Mongolia -
Mongol garment
Mongol deel is a long gown with diagonal or square lapels that can be affixed on both sides. It is the main costume of the Mongol nations and it has lost neither its fundamental design nor style even after centuries of use. The ancientness of the design of the deel is suggested by the appearance of pre-historic people wearing sheep skin coats in ancient petroglyphs. The deel has developed to be compatible with the health, physiological characteristics, and daily life of the pastoral nomads of Mongolia. This garment is also uniquely suited to the harsh weather condition to which the Mongolian lifestyle has adapted. The accessories to the deel also serve many purposes: the long cuff at the end of the sleeves can be used as a glove or liner and the wide belt worn with the deel is designed for protection against kidney disease and back aches, while also serving as a blanket or pillow on long journeys.
Mongolia -
Children in traditional clothing
Kyrgyzstan -
Belt
The belt represents one's social status and wealth. There are a variety of belts found in Mongolia, including belts that are knitted and others that are made from cloth, leather, hide, and even silver and gold. Aristocrats of the nomadic pastoral peoples of the past would use belts made of various precious metals, on which delicate ornaments would be engraved and gemstones inlayed. This kind of belt was called an agsargan bits. It also had metal decorations from which the wearer would hang their sword, knife, and bow case. There was an ancient tradition that Mongolian men, when they established a friendship with another, would exchange their belts as a wish for continuous peace and unity with one another. It is said that aristocrats of the past would also engrave three, five, seven, or nine dragons on their gold or silver belts as a sign of reverence to this mythic beast.
Mongolia -
Mongol garment
Mongol deel is a long gown with diagonal or square lapels that can be affixed on both sides. It is the main costume of the Mongol nations and it has lost neither its fundamental design nor style even after centuries of use. The ancientness of the design of the deel is suggested by the appearance of pre-historic people wearing sheep skin coats in ancient petroglyphs. The deel has developed to be compatible with the health, physiological characteristics, and daily life of the pastoral nomads of Mongolia. This garment is also uniquely suited to the harsh weather condition to which the Mongolian lifestyle has adapted. The accessories to the deel also serve many purposes: the long cuff at the end of the sleeves can be used as a glove or liner and the wide belt worn with the deel is designed for protection against kidney disease and back aches, while also serving as a blanket or pillow on long journeys.
Mongolia -
Ghazal Parti
Ghazal Parti is a combined performance of music, songs, dance and comedy that obtained its influences from the Middle East. Its songs have elements of Arabian rhythm with lyrics in Arabic and Malay. The word ‘Parti’ means the ‘merriment of the ghazal performance’. This arts form expanded in the states of Penang Island, Kedah and Perak in Peninsular Malaysia. Ghazal Parti is often performed at wedding events in the village and at official ones in the city. In wedding events the performance starts from early evening to midnight and sometimes stretches to dawn. A performance in a wedding event is inside a reception hall that faces the newly-wed couple’s house so that the couple’s family members and guests can watch the show. There are eight to 12 musicians depending on the availability of musical instruments that are an accordion, two violins, an oud, a flute, bass guitar, drum, hand-held drum, bongo, tambourine, and maracas. The singers possess academic background in Arabic; some studied at private or public religious schools. The songs are Arabian in Arabic rhythms originating from Egypt. In the beginning the dancers were men in ladies’ clothing wearing scarf, batik sarong and baju kurung with thin make-up, as ladies were not allowed to become dancers. In the 1950s there appeared dancers among the transgender. Another component in Ghazal Parti is comedy that functions to fill in the break time of the musicians and singers. In a performance they rest twice to thrice and it is at this juncture the space is utilized by the comedians bringing themes of current issues.
Malaysia -
Malaysia, Mak Yong Theatre(Bengkung and Pending)
Inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2008\nSpecific to the villages of the state of Kelantan in northwest Malaysia, where the tradition originated, Mak Yong is a kind of musical that combines acting, singing, music, dancing, and colorful costumes. \nMost roles are performed by women, and the stories are based on ancient Malay folk tales Kelantan-Pattani. The lyrics of the songs in Makyong primarily revolve around themes of war, loyalty to the king and kingdom, and the association of this loyalty with religious piety. Mak Yong is also associated with rituals in which shamans attempt to heal through song, trance-dance, and spirit possession. In addition, this performing art properly mixes Hindu and Islamic elements and portrays traditional Malay court life. \n\nBengkung or belt, is a wide strip of cloth used to wrap the stomach, usually worn with Mak Yong clothing as part of the accessories. Pending is Malay silver/ gold Belt Buckle with hand carvings worn together with the bengkung.
Malaysia -
Malaysia, Mak Yong Theatre(Bengkung and Pending)
Inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2008\nSpecific to the villages of the state of Kelantan in northwest Malaysia, where the tradition originated, Mak Yong is a kind of musical that combines acting, singing, music, dancing, and colorful costumes. \nMost roles are performed by women, and the stories are based on ancient Malay folk tales Kelantan-Pattani. The lyrics of the songs in Makyong primarily revolve around themes of war, loyalty to the king and kingdom, and the association of this loyalty with religious piety. Mak Yong is also associated with rituals in which shamans attempt to heal through song, trance-dance, and spirit possession. In addition, this performing art properly mixes Hindu and Islamic elements and portrays traditional Malay court life. \n\nBengkung or belt, is a wide strip of cloth used to wrap the stomach, usually worn with Mak Yong clothing as part of the accessories. Pending is Malay silver/ gold Belt Buckle with hand carvings worn together with the bengkung.
Malaysia -
Malaysia, Mak Yong Theatre(Bengkung and Pending)
Inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2008\nSpecific to the villages of the state of Kelantan in northwest Malaysia, where the tradition originated, Mak Yong is a kind of musical that combines acting, singing, music, dancing, and colorful costumes. \nMost roles are performed by women, and the stories are based on ancient Malay folk tales Kelantan-Pattani. The lyrics of the songs in Makyong primarily revolve around themes of war, loyalty to the king and kingdom, and the association of this loyalty with religious piety. Mak Yong is also associated with rituals in which shamans attempt to heal through song, trance-dance, and spirit possession. In addition, this performing art properly mixes Hindu and Islamic elements and portrays traditional Malay court life. \n\nBengkung or belt, is a wide strip of cloth used to wrap the stomach, usually worn with Mak Yong clothing as part of the accessories. Pending is Malay silver/ gold Belt Buckle with hand carvings worn together with the bengkung.
Malaysia -
Usage of Phob and To-rey: Traditional plates and cups
In the past, plates and cups were not provided for any visitors in Bhutan. Everywhere people must travel with their own plates and cups as this is part of traditional etiquette. Usually, people bring at least two Phob (traditional wooden cups) and a To-rey (a piece of cloth) instead of a plate. The size of the To-rey must be kha-gang, which means slightly more than half a meter and slightly less than a meter, which is equivalent to a two-foot square. This size and quality of the To-rey applies to every person, regardless of status. The Phob wrapped in the To-rey is carried everywhere in the Hem-chung (Gho-pocket or hanging bag) of our Gho and Kira (traditional Bhutanese clothing).\n\nThe cups come in a variety of shapes and varieties and are made of different types of grains. There are cups with silver and gold layers on the rim and inside the cups, or plain wooden cups that signify the different status of the people depending on the quality of the cup used. There are certain cups that may only be used by monks and lamas (Buddhist spiritual leaders). This is usually the La-phob (monk's cup), which does not have exquisite decorations like the Phob of common people. However, the La-phob has historically used different colors to denote different monastic titles.\n\nOn formal occasions, when we sit with our legs crossed or in meditation posture, the To-rey must be able to cover the surface of our leg. It was not until the turn of the 20th century that people began to keep extra plates and cups for guests, as there had been no development until then and the country and its citizens were economically backward. This happened only when people began to import tableware into the country from abroad. Until then, people used phob (wooden cups), Dha-pa (wooden plates) and Bang-chung (hand-woven bamboo plates). Each household member owned a Dhapa or Bang-chung, at least two Phobs, and a To-rey, which served as a shawl and a cleaning cloth for the plates and cups. The plates and cups were wiped with the To-rey, which was cleaned after a few days, as there was no tradition of washing the utensils.
Bhutan -
Usage of Phob and To-rey: Traditional plates and cups
In the past, plates and cups were not provided for any visitors in Bhutan. Everywhere people must travel with their own plates and cups as this is part of traditional etiquette. Usually, people bring at least two Phob (traditional wooden cups) and a To-rey (a piece of cloth) instead of a plate. The size of the To-rey must be kha-gang, which means slightly more than half a meter and slightly less than a meter, which is equivalent to a two-foot square. This size and quality of the To-rey applies to every person, regardless of status. The Phob wrapped in the To-rey is carried everywhere in the Hem-chung (Gho-pocket or hanging bag) of our Gho and Kira (traditional Bhutanese clothing).\n\nThe cups come in a variety of shapes and varieties and are made of different types of grains. There are cups with silver and gold layers on the rim and inside the cups, or plain wooden cups that signify the different status of the people depending on the quality of the cup used. There are certain cups that may only be used by monks and lamas (Buddhist spiritual leaders). This is usually the La-phob (monk's cup), which does not have exquisite decorations like the Phob of common people. However, the La-phob has historically used different colors to denote different monastic titles.\n\nOn formal occasions, when we sit with our legs crossed or in meditation posture, the To-rey must be able to cover the surface of our leg. It was not until the turn of the 20th century that people began to keep extra plates and cups for guests, as there had been no development until then and the country and its citizens were economically backward. This happened only when people began to import tableware into the country from abroad. Until then, people used phob (wooden cups), Dha-pa (wooden plates) and Bang-chung (hand-woven bamboo plates). Each household member owned a Dhapa or Bang-chung, at least two Phobs, and a To-rey, which served as a shawl and a cleaning cloth for the plates and cups. The plates and cups were wiped with the To-rey, which was cleaned after a few days, as there was no tradition of washing the utensils.
Bhutan