ichLinks

Kiyiz basu - the tradition of making felt
'Kiyiz' is a valuable felt material used by nomads in everyday life since immemorial time. Felt is manufactured from sheep, camel or goat wool by felting. Felt is made from wool using various methods to compress the wool fibers to form a thick, durable and warm material. Felt processing and products remains as one of the most popular crafts in the decorative art of the Kazakhstan steppes and other Central Asian countries. It was the major craft in Kazakh nomadic life as well as a significant work of women. Felt in Kazakhstan used mainly for flooring as a carpet well as covering a yurt. Nowadays one can get also a Kazakh felt souvenir toy. Warm slippers, vests, scarves and much more. Kazakhs used two basic types of felt, which differ in their method of manufacture and function. Kazakhs used coarse felt to cover the yurt and the dirt floor inside. Felt often decorated ornament. There are different methods of ornamentation: applique, ornamental stitch and many others. Skilled workers typically cover the entire surface of the felt track patterns, using a contrasting color. Kiiz is a simple felt carpet made of white, brown or grey wool, used as a foundation for making other products or to cover various parts of the yurt. Syrmak is a floor carpet, made by designing on a basis (kiiz) ornamental aptterns cut out of think multicolor felt which are then adjusted to the basis and sewed with color lace along the contour of the pattern, Tekemet is the Kazakh felt carpet with inserted color pattern on the top of each other before rolling. Different tribes in Kazakhstan each have their designs. Tuzkiiz ia a wall carpet, made by sewing ornamental compositions on felt or solid color fabric like velvet or silk, and then sewing them to the felt basis.

#carpet #felt #traditional craft skill #knowledge and concerning nature and the universe #textile #textile arts #weaving #handicrafts

Kazakhstan

Zardozlik (gold embroidery)
Type of traditional embroidery which was widely spread in applied design art of Uzbekistan, Gold embroidery was revived at the middle of XXth Century. It's formation goes back to ancient history. At the end of the XIX – beginning of the ХХ century especially Bukhara was the center of crafts associated with gold embroidery. Notably, at that time gold embroidery was mostly dealt by men. But in some cases, when there were more orders than expected, women (who were close relatives of gold embroiderers) could act in the role of assistants. Bukhara gold embroiderers applied several methods of embroidering. These were: 1) "zardozi-zamindozi" – solid embroidering of the background with gold threads 2) "zardozi-guldozi" – embroidering based on design (image), which is cut out from paper 3) "zardozi-guldozi-zamindozi" – a combined method of embroidering, which unites the above-mentioned two methods 4) "zardozi-berishimdozi" –combined embroidering 5) "zardozi-pulakchadozi" –gold embroidering with spangles. Ornamentation in gold embroidery was predominantly of vegetative nature. Geometric patterns were used less often. Main motifs were rosettes, palmettes, bushes, trees, branches, flowerpots with flowers, almonds, pomegranates, cherries and grapes. Usage of certain vegetative motifs, for example, of "guli-chinni" (chrysanthemum), "guli-qashqari" (Kashgar flower), testify to the fact that pictures of Chinese porcelain (since ancient times it was imported to Central Asia and was popular among elites of Bukhara in the XIX – beginning of the XX century), were borrowed and adapted by Bukhara gold embroiderers.

#embroidery #gold #handicrafts #traditional craftsmanship

Uzbekistan

Margilan Crafts Development Centre, safeguarding of the atlas and adras making traditional technologies
Historically, Margilan was the centre for making atlas and adras – vivid and fine traditional fabrics. Due to the acute need to revive and safeguard traditions at risk of disappearing, the local community came up with an initiative to launch the Crafts Development Centre (CDC) in 2007. The CDC’s goal is to safeguard, develop and promote the method of Uzbek traditional atlas and adras making through innovative training sessions, exhibitions and craft fairs, traditional textile festivals, and the publication of safeguarding materials and manuals. The CDC also promotes the use of natural materials, and supports the transmission of knowledge and skills about nature and the universe and their role in ensuring people’s health and wellbeing.

#traditional fabrics #crafts development centre #safeguarding #traditional craftsmanship

Uzbekistan 2017

Kiyiz basu - the tradition of making felt
'Kiyiz' is a valuable felt material used by nomads in everyday life since immemorial time. Felt is manufactured from sheep, camel or goat wool by felting. Felt is made from wool using various methods to compress the wool fibers to form a thick, durable and warm material. Felt processing and products remains as one of the most popular crafts in the decorative art of the Kazakhstan steppes and other Central Asian countries. It was the major craft in Kazakh nomadic life as well as a significant work of women. Felt in Kazakhstan used mainly for flooring as a carpet well as covering a yurt. Nowadays one can get also a Kazakh felt souvenir toy. Warm slippers, vests, scarves and much more. Kazakhs used two basic types of felt, which differ in their method of manufacture and function. Kazakhs used coarse felt to cover the yurt and the dirt floor inside. Felt often decorated ornament. There are different methods of ornamentation: applique, ornamental stitch and many others. Skilled workers typically cover the entire surface of the felt track patterns, using a contrasting color. Kiiz is a simple felt carpet made of white, brown or grey wool, used as a foundation for making other products or to cover various parts of the yurt. Syrmak is a floor carpet, made by designing on a basis (kiiz) ornamental aptterns cut out of think multicolor felt which are then adjusted to the basis and sewed with color lace along the contour of the pattern, Tekemet is the Kazakh felt carpet with inserted color pattern on the top of each other before rolling. Different tribes in Kazakhstan each have their designs. Tuzkiiz ia a wall carpet, made by sewing ornamental compositions on felt or solid color fabric like velvet or silk, and then sewing them to the felt basis.

#carpet #felt #traditional craft skill #knowledge and concerning nature and the universe #textile #textile arts #weaving #handicrafts

Kazakhstan

Teri Onderu - Traditional leather processing
Traditional leather processing and dyeing techniques are widely used in Shubarkuduk (Western Kazakhstan), which also hosts a school for teaching these techniques to young people. Leather utensils, serve as a 'refrigerator', which can withstand any changes in temperature. The freshness of kymyz (mare's milk) and shubat (camel milk) kept in such way. The tradition of leather craft, method of treatment passed down from generation to generation. Currently, the synthesis of professional creative activities and traditional motifs of the past is seen as the source of the revival of the classical tradition. These days, leather utensils fail to fulfill its utilitarian function, people mostly use it as a souvenir. Traditional technique of leather processing is used along with modern methods. The leather is used to produce men’s belts (kumys beldyk); hunting belt with accessories (kyseh beldyk with powder flask, pouch, fire striker, and sheath for a knife); women’s belt (belbeu); traditional footwear (yetyk, kebys, myasy); leather braided whip (khamshy), four, six and eight strand whip (used for horse riding); twelve and fourteen strand whip (used for protection from wolf attack); a quiver for arrows; a sheath for knives, swords, and sabers; leather shields. There are also leather vessels for mare’s milk: kauhar (flat vessel with narrow neck), torsykh (a vessel with rounded handles), mess (water skin), sabah (a large vessel tailored from goatskin). Traditional fur hats are widespread in Kazakhstan, namely tymakh and boryk with a lining made from fox, wolf, muskrat or mink fur and pushpakh tymakh made from fox paws; as well traditional men’s clothes (shapan and zharghakh) light coat made from light and soft suede and decorated with fine silk embroidery. Kazakh suede was one of the most valuable goods of the Silk Road and was traded as expensively as Chinese silk. One of the most common techniques used by Kazakh artisans is hot stamping on leather with metal plates called khalyp. Nowadays the national artistic traditions and new creative trends reflected in the works of modern masters and artists, where the ancient stamping technology has been preserved almost intact. . Embossing is made on soaked leather on the underside using special wooden plates with a desired carved design. Leather is clamped between two wooden plates and left to air-dry naturally. The design used for decorating leather is similar to the one used for making carpets. The central field filled with khoshkhar muyiz (sheep horn pattern) and khos myuiz (a cross-piece made of paired sheep horns). For the border, usually a plant design is used. The leather can be decorated with shaped metal plates with silver inlay. Embossed leather can be used for decorating wooden chests (zhaghlan). Along with embossing, incrustation with colored leather (kok saur), velvet and gold embroidery on leather is used.

Kazakhstan

Margilan Crafts Development Centre
The nomination "Margilan Crafts Development Centre, safeguarding of Atlas and Adras making traditional technologies" has been selected as a programme project and activities best reflecting the principles and objectives of the Convention in 2017. Margilan Crafts Development Centre was established to preserve the disappearance of artisan schools and transmit the tradition of adras and atlas making, at the newly restored — Sayyid Ahmad Huja Medressah in Margilan in 2007. The Following masters represent the Margilan Crafts Development Centre: Rasuljon Mirzaakhmedov and Rakhimjon Mirzaakhmedov (both represent 9th generation of craftsmen), Alisher Akhmadaliev and Makhmudjon Tursunov (both represent 3rd generation of craftsmen), Sherzodjon Goziyev (2nd generation of craftsmen).The Centre is aimed at teaching the handicrafts (the arts of silk and wool carpets weaving, ikat weaving, block printing and embroidery) and revival of traditions of individual masters and their workshops.Master of the Center contributed to revitalization of different aspects of ancient ikat making and natural dyeing as well as other textile schools. Among them it is possible to mention the old design of Bukhara silk-velvet ikat “A’lo Bakhmal”, for which Mr. Rasuljon Mirzaakhmedov was awarded UNESCO’s “A Seal of Excellence” (2005).

#traditional fabrics #crafts development centre #safeguarding #traditional craftsmanship

Uzbekistan

Margilan Crafts Development Centre
The nomination "Margilan Crafts Development Centre, safeguarding of Atlas and Adras making traditional technologies" has been selected as a programme project and activities best reflecting the principles and objectives of the Convention in 2017. Margilan Crafts Development Centre was established to preserve the disappearance of artisan schools and transmit the tradition of adras and atlas making, at the newly restored — Sayyid Ahmad Huja Medressah in Margilan in 2007. The Following masters represent the Margilan Crafts Development Centre: Rasuljon Mirzaakhmedov and Rakhimjon Mirzaakhmedov (both represent 9th generation of craftsmen), Alisher Akhmadaliev and Makhmudjon Tursunov (both represent 3rd generation of craftsmen), Sherzodjon Goziyev (2nd generation of craftsmen).The Centre is aimed at teaching the handicrafts (the arts of silk and wool carpets weaving, ikat weaving, block printing and embroidery) and revival of traditions of individual masters and their workshops.Master of the Center contributed to revitalization of different aspects of ancient ikat making and natural dyeing as well as other textile schools. Among them it is possible to mention the old design of Bukhara silk-velvet ikat “A’lo Bakhmal”, for which Mr. Rasuljon Mirzaakhmedov was awarded UNESCO’s “A Seal of Excellence” (2005).

#traditional fabrics #crafts development centre #safeguarding #traditional craftsmanship

Uzbekistan

Pa'ta la (Myanmar Xylophone_Metal)
The earliest mention of the pattala (pa'tala:) is in the Bago Kalyani Sima lithic inscription of A.D. 1479 enumerating the presents exchanged with the king of present day Sri Lanka. It was mentioned by Court official Twinthin Mingyi in 1798 as one of the six instruments of the anyein (non- dramatic dance and comedy) ensemble. F.A Neilly, author of a book on Thailand, wrote " The Thai xylophone is derived from the Myanmar xylophone which the Myanmar play exceedingly well". Thai Research Society Vol 69 Part 1-2 of January- July 1951 carried long article by USA Kent University School of Music Terry E Miller and Music Department of Shrinaken University researcher Jaran Chaichonperut. War between the two countries made cultural exchange of musical instruments. There is evidence to show that the xylophone was extant earlier in Myanmar than in Thailand.\nEarlier, softwood was used for the mallets. Now they are made of teak, padauk, cutch, yindai or pyinkado. The mallets are eight inches long with a soft knob of cotton, felt or velvet at the tip. The resonance box is usually made of teak and decorated with pieces of glass of various colors and gilt. Earlier the box constituted one body. Now it is made collapsible for easier transportation. Thought the slats are generally bamboo, there can also be brass or iron. The Myanmar pattala is tuned to the diatonic scale. However, Myanmar chau' pau' and hni pau' instead of being equivalent to international E and B notes are a semitone each Lower. The Myanmar pattala covers one octave below middle C and two octaves above thereby encompassing altogether three octaves. The Myanmar pattala is composed of the slats, the resonance box and the mallets. The beginner is trained to first play left and right strikers alternately in the "maun nin:" method of play. Then the student is trained to strike the mallets simultaneously using the "zoun" method. Traditionally, the player tearns to keep to the timing beats by playing the short music piece beginning "htan taya tei: shin" . They the player is taught the combined "htan", the combined "dun", the combined "djan" and the detached "djan".

Myanmar

Pa'tala: (Myanmar Xylophone)
The earliest mention of the pattala (pa'tala:) is in the Bago Kalyani Sima lithic inscription of A.D. 1479 enumerating the presents exchanged with the king of present day Sri Lanka. It was mentioned by Court official Twinthin Mingyi in 1798 as one of the six instruments of the anyein (non- dramatic dance and comedy) ensemble. F.A Neilly, author of a book on Thailand, wrote " The Thai xylophone is derived from the Myanmar xylophone which the Myanmar play exceedingly well". Thai Research Society Vol 69 Part 1-2 of January- July 1951 carried long article by USA Kent University School of Music Terry E Miller and Music Department of Shrinaken University researcher Jaran Chaichonperut. War between the two countries made cultural exchange of musical instruments. There is evidence to show that the xylophone was extant earlier in Myanmar than in Thailand.\nEarlier, softwood was used for the mallets. Now they are made of teak, padauk, cutch, yindai or pyinkado. The mallets are eight inches long with a soft knob of cotton, felt or velvet at the tip. The resonance box is usually made of teak and decorated with pieces of glass of various colors and gilt. Earlier the box constituted one body. Now it is made collapsible for easier transportation. Thought the slats are generally bamboo, there can also be brass or iron. The Myanmar pattala is tuned to the diatonic scale. However, Myanmar chau' pau' and hni pau' instead of being equivalent to international E and B notes are a semitone each Lower. The Myanmar pattala covers one octave below middle C and two octaves above thereby encompassing altogether three octaves. The Myanmar pattala is composed of the slats, the resonance box and the mallets. The beginner is trained to first play left and right strikers alternately in the "maun nin:" method of play. Then the student is trained to strike the mallets simultaneously using the "zoun" method. Traditionally, the player tearns to keep to the timing beats by playing the short music piece beginning "htan taya tei: shin" . They the player is taught the combined "htan", the combined "dun", the combined "djan" and the detached "djan".

Myanmar

velvet