ALL
weaving
ICH Elements 39
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Kiyiz basu - the tradition of making felt
'Kiyiz' is a valuable felt material used by nomads in everyday life since immemorial time. Felt is manufactured from sheep, camel or goat wool by felting. Felt is made from wool using various methods to compress the wool fibers to form a thick, durable and warm material. Felt processing and products remains as one of the most popular crafts in the decorative art of the Kazakhstan steppes and other Central Asian countries. It was the major craft in Kazakh nomadic life as well as a significant work of women. Felt in Kazakhstan used mainly for flooring as a carpet well as covering a yurt. Nowadays one can get also a Kazakh felt souvenir toy. Warm slippers, vests, scarves and much more. Kazakhs used two basic types of felt, which differ in their method of manufacture and function. Kazakhs used coarse felt to cover the yurt and the dirt floor inside. Felt often decorated ornament. There are different methods of ornamentation: applique, ornamental stitch and many others. Skilled workers typically cover the entire surface of the felt track patterns, using a contrasting color. Kiiz is a simple felt carpet made of white, brown or grey wool, used as a foundation for making other products or to cover various parts of the yurt. Syrmak is a floor carpet, made by designing on a basis (kiiz) ornamental aptterns cut out of think multicolor felt which are then adjusted to the basis and sewed with color lace along the contour of the pattern, Tekemet is the Kazakh felt carpet with inserted color pattern on the top of each other before rolling. Different tribes in Kazakhstan each have their designs. Tuzkiiz ia a wall carpet, made by sewing ornamental compositions on felt or solid color fabric like velvet or silk, and then sewing them to the felt basis.
Kazakhstan -
Batik
The word “Batik” means “drawing out with wax”. The coloured and patterned cloth has gained popularity not only in Malaysia but also in international fashion scenes. This fabric normally carries motifs that reflect the flora and fauna, geometry and landscape of nature. Terengganu Batik is renowned for its vibrant colours, bold prints and its versatility. It is soft, light and breezy and very well suited for the summer and tropical climate and its fabric is made into shirts, dresses, crepe de chine, scarves, kaftans, sarongs, pillow cases, bags, table cloths and many more items. There are two types of batik, the hand drawn and the block print. The hand drawn is based on the artist’s imagination and creativity. The artist begins by using a small pen-like container filled with hot-melted wax. It is then hand-drawn onto a white fabric with hot liquid wax creating a design. Brushes are then used to paint dyes within the outlines, thus allowing for the creation of shaded and multihued designs. The gracefulness and speed of their freehand never ceases to amaze one’s attention. It is a beauty of the highest form of traditional batik where each hand-drawn article of clothing is unique. The block print batik uses either a copper or a wooden block that looks like a domestic iron, artistically designed with intricate patterns. The block is dipped in a hot melted wax and press printed on the white cloth, which is then dyed in the colours required, rinsed and dried. Many contemporary designers also incorporate elements of this ancient craft into their colourful creations. Today, batik is not only used for outfits, but innovative commercial uses of this beautiful and artistic textile are made into bags, cushion covers, curtains, slippers etc.
Malaysia -
Tanggeonjang (Horsehair Hat Making)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea Tanggeon is an inner hat made of horsehair or cow tail hair, which was worn by men before putting on gat (traditional hat). Men used to wear it when staying home. Tanggeonjang refers to the skill of making tanggeon, or to an artisan with such a skill. Jejudo Island, where many horses were raised, was the main site for production of tanggeon. There are three types of tanggeon, depending on how they were woven, single-layer ones, double-layer ones, and those with square patterns. Tanggeon were made with square patterns for better appearance as they came to be used simply as hats.
South Korea -
Kam thag-ma: Cotton Woven garment
Colloquially, Mo-ngan kha-mung (Cotton Woven Cloth) is also called as Kam thag-ma in Dzongkha (Bhutanese national language). It is one of the practices in this locality which is the main source of income for most of the household. This has been practiced for many years but when and who had started this practice was not known. The clothes woven out of cotton are found thick and warm compared to the one which is imported. It‘s cost is also high compared to the one which is woven in ordinary yarn and threads. The products are of different colors and patterns. The cost depends upon the color of the cloth and the patterns used. The cost for the men’s clothes is higher than that of women’s. They used local materials for dying for different colors. With the support from the APIC, the people in the village from a small group to uplift and keep the Mo-ngan kha-mung production alive. According to the Chiwog Tshogpa (Community representative), annually a group of people from Japan and other part of the nation used to visit, however due to prolonged lockdown the group is been affected as not so many products are able to sell. Nimin daza also shared her worrisome feelings of dying such age-old method of producing Mo-ngan kha-mung since not so many youths take interest in learning, nevertheless with the support from government (APIC) she is very optimistic that young women may develop interest, unlike the past they need not have to sit for long to separate seed and Mo-ngan.
Bhutan
ICH Materials 94
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Traditional Kazakh Felt Manufacturing
Felt making is one of the oldest traditions, bearing an artistic and aesthetic value and symbolism closely associated with folk customs and rituals. The process of collecting wool is twice a year—in autumn and in spring. A story about the historical value and ubiquitous use of rams’ skins. The process and the staged technique of felting. One way to preserve traditional felt making. It is a question of the ecological value of felt, the methods of extraction from natural materials (plants and stones), and the use of certain ornaments associated with nature and animals.
Kazakhstan 2017 -
Kishuthara (The Silken Kira (Bhutanese women dress)
Kishuthara (the silken kira), is a native intricate patterned silk textile woven on Thakshing (backstrap loom). particularly Khoma Gewog (block) under Lhuentse Dzongkhag (district) where it become the production hotspot of the Bhutanese woven textile in the country.
Bhutan 2021-11-28
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THE METALLIC THREAD OF MALAY EMBROIDERYHistorically, Malaysia (the Malay Peninsula) was known as the Golden Chersonese, and in the past, Malay populations lived in riverine and coastal settlements, which were some of the most important trading hubs in Southeast Asia. The Malay maritime empire was once a large kingdom, stretching from the coast of Vietnam and Cambodia to Southern Thailand, the Malay Peninsula, Singapore, Borneo, Sumatra, Riau, Sulawesi, and Southern Philippines. Across the Malay-speaking world, fabrics embellished with gold were for the rich and powerful, such as the ruler of the kingdom. Besides the golden fabric, songket, Malay embroideries were mostly used by nobility and royals. In the fifteenth century, the Melaka Sultanate instituted sumptuary laws governing the types of ornaments and colors for interior and soft furnishings, such as curtain fringes, bolster ends, cushions, prayer mats and other items. Across the Malay world, the numbers of dais, bolsters, and layers of siting mats, were associated with a certain hierarchy, varying across the regions.Year2018NationSouth Korea
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Shital Pati: A Traditional Handicraft of BangladeshShital pati (literally “cool mat”) is an age-old traditional handicraft item of Bangladesh, which is sometimes used as alternative to bed sheets. For generations, people living in the Northeastern districts in the country, such as Sylhet, Moulvibazar, Habiganj, Sunamganj, Netrokona, and Brahmanbaria, have been making the popular craft item either from the finest types of cane or murta plants (Schumannianthus dichotomus) growing near bodies of water in the region.\n\nAs a traditional craft practice, the making of shital pati is championed by families. It becomes the the only means of livelihood of around 8,000 people in the prolonged monsoon when cultivable lands in the vast low-lying areas go under water. Every member of shital pati–weaving–families takes part in preparing the raw materials and in the actual process of weaving.There are three varieties of shital pati: normal, jamdani, and nakshi pati (“decorated mat”).\n\nTypically, it takes five days to make a normal one; eight to nine days to make a jamdani mat; almost a month to weave an embroidered mat. Their price varies from Tk 500 to Tk 2,500, depending on design and size. The product is sold throughout the year in the rural market and outlets of different chain stores located in the posh areas.\n\nThe craft item was inscribed on the national list of Intangible Cultural Heritage by People’s Republic of Bangladesh in 2007. The country has also applied to UNESCO for its inscription on the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity with the title “Traditional Art of Shital Pati Weaving of Sylhet”. The application will be examined in the twelfth session of the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage to be held in December 2017 in the Republic of Korea.\n\nPhoto : Weavers in Sylhet pose with a shital pati © New AgeYear2017NationBangladesh
Open Archive 7
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Coconut-Leaf Sun-Shade Plaiting in Roviana, Solomon Islands
This video depicts coconut-leaf sun-shade plaiting, which was demonstrated by Ms. Beverlyn Atu on Nusa Roviana, Western Province, Solomon Islands. This sun-shade is locally called "toropae valusa" ('fisherman's sun-shade') in the Roviana language, since it is mainly used for fishing.
Solomon Islands -
Hansan moshi 국가무형문화재 제 14호 한산모시짜기
Hansan mosaic is a high-grade mosque produced in Hansan-myeon, Seocheon-gun, Chungcheongnam-do, and is designated as an important intangible cultural asset No.14. On November 28, 2011, the Hansan mosque weaving was listed as a UNESCO humanity's intangible cultural heritage. 한국전통문화대학교에서는 한산모시짜기 전수교육학교를 운영하고 있습니다. 교육 과정에서 제가 보고 느꼈던 한산모시에 대해 사진을 통해 보여드리고자 합니다.
South Korea -
T'nalak weaving
T'nalak weaving is one of the most celebrated traditions of the T'boli communities in the Philippines. It is indeed a living tradition as masters and older community members are very keen to teach the younger generation this traditional craftsmanship of the dream weavers.
Philippines -
The weaving of Malaysia
This is a picture of weaving Malaysia taken during a field trip for the Malaysia video production workshop in 2019.
Malaysia