ALL
silver thread
ICH Elements 7
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Robam Trud (Trud Dance)
"Trud" Dance is originated in rural communities and is now only found in Siem Reap and some villages of Battambang adjacent to Siem Reap. "Trud" in Sanskrit means “The act of cutting, detachment) The locals play this dance only during the Khmer New Year, in the sense of cutting off the old year to move on to the new year, as well as expelling evil spirits in order to get good fortune. However, during the dry season, this dance is also performed to pray for rainfall. In addition, the importance of playing this dance is to raise funds to build and repair communal infrastructures in the community, especially in the pagoda, which is not for personal gain. This dance can be joined by more or fewer dancers according to the preferences of the village or the number of volunteers. The equipment also depends on the number of dancers. The equipment is also doubled as the props and accompaniment to the dance. The complete Trud Dance can consist of instruments such as: Kanh Chhe (bamboo mast with bells on top), Changkrang Dombe, ChangKrang Rong, Sko Arak (hand drum), Bei Pok (flute), Tro Ou, Tro Sor (bowed strings) and Dang Santuch or Dang Doy (pulling bar of an ox cart) attached with an open bag for retrieving the donations. The main accessories for the Trud Dance are clown masks and crowns made of paper mache and lacquer, real deer and banteng antlers or artificial antlers made of paper mache, peacock feathers,s and fake long nails made of rattan. When performing, there are two or three priests leading the group and holding a fundraising bowl, and giving blessings to those who Donate. If it is played in rain asking ritual, the priest who leads the ceremony is called “Dangkhao”. The lyrics are not the same, it depends on the preference of the group or the village because some lyrics can be created immediately according to the actual situation in order to convince the donor to give more donations. But the interesting thing is that most of the "songs" contain 4 syllables in each line. 6 The following are some excerpts from the lyrics in the document of Samdech Preah Vanroth Iv Tuot, Chief of Monk from Battambang Province: Lyrics on arrival at the ceremonial ground I arrive outside your gate, calling out to you. My respected master Can I come inside? (Vocalizing) oh na neang na Can I come inside? Permit or not, Please let us know. We can come in or not, Please quickly tell us. (Vocalizing) oh na neang na Please quickly tell us. Fellow team! Fellow team! That the fire is lit Means that we are welcomed. (Vocalizing) oh na neang na Means that we are welcomed. Lyrics when asking for alms This Trud is not from here. This Trud is not from here. The master ordered us That we came here to play. (Vocalizing) oh na neang na That we came here to play. Big house with sculptures Stair steps made of silver Suiting his wealth (Vocalizing) oh na neang na sa ra mom bong. Lyrics when collecting the scattered alms Some hide, some throw, Some scoop up, Don’t talk, lads! Catch the money quietly (Vocalizing) Yeur chhai nao nao neang nan a na oun euy. Lyrics to bless the givers Fellow team! His silk and thread He gave us all We shall bless him. To have a son She weaves silk to bless regularly Officials He gave us all To get a mouthful for a daughter Soup for money. We bless him. Children as well. Sculpture land. Before performing, people prepare an offering for Lord Vishvakarman and the spirits of the land and nature. Then the priest ties holy thread to the wrists of the dancers and puts on the masks and horns for the performers. Mr. Pol Sam Oeun researched this dance in Battambang province and choreographed it as a performance on stage and performed for the first time by Mr. Meas Kok, who was the first singer to hold the Dang Santuch, and the following performers: Mr. Ros Lon, Mr. Meas Sam El, Ms. Mom Hoy, Mrs. Sieng Sivhun, Mrs. Kaing Steng, Mrs. Ok Leung, Mr. Hing Tim, Mr. Moeung Chandara, Mr. Kong Samith, Mr. Pen Lon, Mr. Put Lon, Mr. Suon Sareth, Mr. Eam Sean, Mr. Pen Yet. The dance ceased to be performed in 1975 and resumed in December 1979. Today, Trud Dance is very popular because during the period before the New Year. It is performed in government institutions, companies, or private houses to ward off evil spirits and bring prosperity.
Cambodia -
Traditional Blacksmith
Blacksmithing includes a variety of techniques, including casting, welding, copper embossing, thread inlay, steel engraving, and double-engraved silver. Blacksmithing is inseparable from nomadic pastoral cultures, and is one of the wonders created by the nomadic pastoralists of Mongolia. The steel hearth, fire tongs, and other household tools are made by blacksmiths. Since ancient times, Mongolian artisans have made weapons and other army equipment, as well as tools and instruments, in a communal manner, meaning that blacksmithing workshops are found in many different sites in Mongolia. There are famous designs and schools of blacksmithing, such as Dariganga, Noyon Sevrei and Archuul, and although the artisan creates his work according to customary designs, one can find individual styles in their works. Traditionally, Mongolian artisans transmit their knowledge to the next generation through a master-to-apprentice way. In this method, the master becomes both a parent and teacher for the apprentice.
Mongolia -
Keste - Kazakh embroidery
Keste - traditional Kazakh hand-made embroidery with colored thread and needles or hooks (biz/ilgek/ilme) and hoop (kergish). A Kazakh word keste means 'a scheme or painting'. Direct analogues of colored woolen threads embroidery are found in artifacts of the Berel burial in East Kazakhstan, dating from the IV. BC. The embroidery is often made on velvet, plush, cloth, felt, velveteen, cotton and silk with woolen, cotton, silky, golden, silver threads and spun gold. Gimp, beads, coral, pearl beads, silver details are frequently applied. There are about 40 kinds of complex and simple Kazakh embroidery: biz keste - tambour embroidery created with a thin awl-hook; tizbek tigis, shyrash tigis, tyshkan iz, kұs izi (a “bird” seam) shynzhyr, shym keste (tight cover seam without gaps), koykusak, kigash, albyr keste (distichous seam) are the names and versions of tambour embroidery with needle; oraypek/oraypa is a kind of albyr keste; kebeke is a seam similar to Russian embroidery on canvas; zhorme, zhormeme, orys keste, aykas tigis is a cross-stitch embroidery; kereghe bas tigis is a “goat” seam. Baspa is a couched hemstitch technique and shyralzhyn is a simple one. A satin stitch with bedding bedel keste creates relief forms. A columnar seam zhormeu makes zigzag weave. The techniques can be used in combination. Embroidered products are made for domestic purposes and various ceremonies, which led to the species diversity. In festive men's and women's clothing: shapans, dresses koylek, flared skirts beldemshe, sleeveless jackets beshpet, hats, scarves oramal; in interior items: tablecloths, korzhyn etc.
Kazakhstan -
Art of making costume decorative patterns of the Red Yao
According to documents from the Department of Culture and Tourism, the Yao people in Bac Kan province have the second largest population, accounting for nearly 18% of the total population of the province; divided into 2 dialect-using groups, "Kềm miền" and "Kềm mùn", including 3 groups, 4 branches and 8 branches. Each group has its own cultural identity, especially in terms of costumes. With their sophistication in the way they dress, Red Yao women create their own unique features in the way they decorate their costumes. The costumes of Red Yao women in Bac Kan include two types: regular clothes and formal clothes. The daily casual clothes have two main colors, blue and black, including a headscarf, shirt, bib, belt and are usually not embroidered with patterns. The formal clothes worn on wedding days or festivals are cut, sewn, embroidered more elaborately and meticulously, with a split chest, embroidered shirt placket, and fastened with silver buttons. The two chests of the shirt are decorated with many red woolen flowers in a V shape. The back collar is decorated with many colored beads. The two trouser legs are embroidered with patterns from the knee down. The belt is made of two pieces of cloth about two spans long, embroidered with patterns and beautifully decorated at both ends. The main color of the Red Yao ethnic group's ceremonial costume is red, because they believe that red brings happiness and luck. The Red Yao ethnic group's costume is one of the most richly and diversely decorated with patterns among the ethnic groups in Vietnam, expressed through the art of decorative patterns on the costume. The decoration on the ao dai and both sides of the flaps is attached with beaded strings with red and yellow tassels at the ends. The sleeves have a strip of embroidered patterns or made of green fabric. The belt is made of indigo fabric, embroidered with many patterns of plants, tiger paw prints, surrounded by green cat paw prints, flowers, stars, pine trees, and children. The trouser legs are mainly decorated with horizontal bands of patterns from the hem up to the trouser legs. The embroidered skirt is a red strip of fabric, in the middle there are two rows of white sawtooth patterned fabric, below is a row of red, blue, yellow tassels. The bib is embroidered and decorated with bright red, yellow, blue thread, and silver. Around the neck of the bib, along the front of the bib are decorated with silver flowers, rectangular silver pieces, one after another, handcrafted. Using manual techniques: embroidery, fabric patching, silver attachment, processing color and shape layouts..., the Red Yao people create different motifs to decorate their costumes. The types of decorative patterns are diverse: images of trees and grass, tiger footprints, cat footprints, stars, images of children, sawtooth patterned fabric, tassels... The art of decorating patterns on costumes contains many aesthetic, religious and spiritual values, demonstrating the ingenuity, sophistication, and creativity of the Red Yao women in Ngoc Phai (Cho Don-Bac Kan). With the efforts to preserve the national cultural identity of the Red Yao people, Ngoc Phai commune, Cho Don district, the Art of making costume decorative patterns of the Red Yao was recognized by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2018.
Viet Nam -
Kalbelia folk songs and dances of Rajasthan
The Kalbelias are an itinerant community who ascribe their origin to Guru Kanni Pavji (one of the masters of the mystical Nath Sect) who granted them the gift of handling snakes. In traditional rural society, Kalbelia men would carry cobras in cane baskets from door to door in the village while their women would sing and dance and beg for alms. In so doing, they passed on mythological stories that revered the cobra and advocated non-killing of the reptile. So, if a snake inadvertently entered a home, then a Kalbelia would be hastily summoned to catch and take the serpent away through non-violent means, such as music, without killing it. Kalbelias have traditionally been a fringe group existing at the periphery of the mainstream society. Largely, the Kalbelias live in spaces outside the village where they reside in makeshift camps called 'deras.' With their belongings on the back of donkeys, and with a few hunting dogs of the 'Lohari' breed, the Kalbelias used to move their 'deras' from one place to another in a circuitous route repeated over time. With the experience and received wisdom of generations, the Kalbelias have acquired a unique understanding of the local flora and fauna, and are aware of herbal remedies for various diseases. This is also an alternative source of income for them. With the Wildlife Act in place, the Kalbelias have moved away from their traditional profession of snake handling. Now, their performing arts are a major source of income for them. Fortunately, their art forms have received widespread recognition within and outside India, and their economic status has improved. However, performance opportunities are sporadic and the whole community is not involved in it on regular basis. Hence, many members of the community work in the fields, or graze cattle to sustain themselves. Nonetheless the entire community is today known for its performing art tradition. The Kalbelias have a great tradition of song and dance which is a strong marker of their identity. Women sing and dance while the men play on musical instruments. The music and dance of the Kalbelia have a distinct relation to their earlier profession as snake charmers. The Poongi is the traditional wind instrument that the Kalbelia men play to a specific tune to capture snakes. Nowadays, women dancers try to replicate the rhythmic movements of a serpent’s body through their dance. Poongi, a two feet long wind instrument used by Kalbelia musicians, is unique to them. They make the 'poongi,' from locally grown gourds that impart a plaintive tonality to their music. Giving rhythm to the 'poongi' is the 'khanjari' - a percussion instrument made of wood and hide. Besides these, there are other instruments including the 'ghuralio' – similar to the harp but unique to the Kalbelias. When the Kalbelias go around the village from door to door, they sing from their wide repertoire of songs about the rites of passage in life. It is noteworthy that the highly entertaining Kalbelia songs also disseminate mythological knowledge to the people through stories. They have many traditional dances like the 'Loor', which is performed during the festival of Holi. During this joyous festival of colours, groups of Kalbelias perform in village squares and streets while playing with colours with the community. Moving from house to house, the Kalbelia men play the one-sided drum called the 'chang' or the 'daph'. Most of the 'Loor' dance songs are full of fun and gaiety. 'Matku' is yet another traditional dance performed by the Kalbelias routinely. In this dance, the dancer's upper torso is used more actively with flowing hand gestures. The men are traditionally attired in colourful ‘safas’ or turbans, white 'kurtas' and 'dhotis' (shirt and unstitched lower garment) and embroidered footwear called ‘mojdies.’ The women’s traditional costumes consist of a ‘ghaghra’ (pleated skirt) and a ‘choli’ (full-sleeved upper garment) that comes down till the knee. The ‘ghaghra’ or the pleated skirt is enlarged manifold by using eleven meters of cloth. The ‘ghaghra’ along with the upper garment called ‘jhumpher’ is richly embroidered with mirror work and embellished with silver thread. Other significant features of their make-up are the use of traditional tattoo designs and ‘kajal’ or kohl. Over a period of time, the Kalbelias have improvised on their costumes and jewellery. They have begun using new make-up techniques and have added more instruments to their music. Similarly Kalbelia jewellery has also undergone creative modification. They also use an embroidered colourful waistband called ‘patto’ decorated with small mirrors and cowry shells. There are colourful bangles, and ‘phoondi’ - tassels worn by women. This creative process of change has made the Kalbelia dance more vibrant and vigorous in its steps. The dancers have added many acrobatic features into their dance, like bending backwards to pick up a ring from the ground with their eyelids, and so on. Dancers spin in circles with swirling skirts to the beat of a percussion instrument, taking the dance to a crescendo.
India 2010 -
Kin pang then Ritual of the White Thai
“Kin” means to eat; “Pang” means ceremony, the person attending the ceremony; “Then” refers to the gods in Mường Trời. Kin Pang Then is a festival to celebrate adopted children of the White Thai people. The ceremony is organized by Then workers to meet adopted children to give thanks and celebrate Then's fate. The ritual takes place in early spring (from before the full moon in January to before the full moon in March every year), and is held once every 3 years. Mr. Then himself chose a specific day for his adopted children to know and attend. The day of the Kin Pang Then ceremony must be before the full moon day of the first lunar month. The pang tree is the center of ceremonies and is elaborately decorated. The Then altar and offering tray include many items. On the evening of the first day, Master Then prepared the pan cai offering tray to worship Then, including sticky rice, paddy, betel and areca, wine, eggs, steamed sticky rice, salt, white cloth, cotton thread, silver bracelet, incense, lamp, money, water, flowers, etc. Master Then wears traditional costumes to worship at the Then altar. Báo Khỏa plays the piano, Sao Chay assists him and shakes the bell. After performing the purification and blessing ceremony, Mr. Then asked the patriarch for permission to perform the ceremony. Master Then went to Then village to invite Then to come down and play, celebrate the adopted children's ceremony, and bless the adopted children with good health, prosperous business, and good harvests. After offering offerings to Then, Master Then, Sao Chay, Báo Khỏa, and their adopted children became monks. The next morning, the Then family slaughtered chickens, and pigs, and prepared sticky rice for the offering ceremony. One offering tray is placed at the ancestral worship place (clọ hóng) and one offering tray is placed at the Then altar (hỉnh một). In case Then's parents are still alive, they must ask Then's father to make offerings to their ancestors at the Clọ hóng pavilion. After worshiping the ancestors, Master Then made offerings to each adopted child. The adopted child's offerings include chicken, wine, sticky rice, Chung cake, and 1 piece of white cloth, arranged on separate trays. During the worshiping ceremony, Mr. Then worshiped while resting, drinking wine, drinking water, smoking, and singing back and forth with Báo Khỏa and Sao Chay. After offering offerings to the adopted children, Master Then and Sao Chay performed folk games and had fun with the adopted children.
Viet Nam -
Songket
Songket is a traditional Malaysian handwoven fabric. It is woven on two-pedal floor looms by the Malay women In Malay Peninsula (West Malaysia) and in Sarawak (East Malaysia). The term Songket is derived from the technique employed to make it: inserting gold or silver thread in between the weft and warp threads. Songket is woven using the Malay weaving loom called 'kek'. Songket is woven as the supplementary weft method, a decorative weaving technique in which extra threads "float" across a colourful woven ground to create ornamental effect. The delicate piece of Songket is the result of many months of skilled handloom weaving by expert craftsmen who learn the art from their ancestors. The identity is traced by its design patterns that use geometry and elements of nature such as flowers, birds and insects. The motifs of tampuk manggis (mangosteen calyx), tampuk kesemak (persimmon), bunga pecah lapan (eight-petal flower), bunga bintang (star-patterned flower), pucuk rebung (bamboo shoots) and awan larat (trailing clouds) are among the most frequently used. These traditional patterns continue to be used, especially in aspects of separation and placing the various parts of the cloth such as the centerfield, main panel and end borders. Unlike the old days, Songket is only worn by royalty and their families. But todays, it is mostly worn as traditional Malay ceremonial costumes during royal installations, wedding, birth, Malay festive occasions and formal state functions.
Malaysia 2021