ALL
dress
ICH Elements 6
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Doppidozlik (skullcap embroidery)
Skullcap embroidery was developed among Iranian and Turkic peoples since ancient times. Skullcaps make up part of the national dresses of the peoples of Turkistan, especially of Uzbeks and Tajiks. They differ in terms of form and décor from one place to another. The traditions of their creation are also different. For sewing skullcap a piece of material is cut out from single-colored silk or satin, embroidered by using simple, silk and gold threads. Parts of skullcap, decorated with fancy work, are put on lining and sewed to each other. The edges are decorated with braids. Depending on the style, skullcaps can be quadrangular or cone-shaped. Skullcaps especially are made by women.
Uzbekistan -
KURTADUZI, chevari
Sewing traditional dresses. Seamstresses usually prepare embroidered woman shirts and other dresses. In the past masters sewed dresses with hand, now the sewing machines also are applied.
Tajikistan -
PARCHA-BURON, chokburon, kurpaduzon
Women ritual which is held before the wedding in bride parent’s house. Relative and neighbor women come for sewing bride’s dresses.
Tajikistan -
Yangthang Bonkor: Bon Riutal of Yangthang community
Bonkor (miss-pronounced as Bonko) is the festival celebrated in virtue of an offering to local deity called Ap Chundu in Yangthang Village under Bji Gewog in Haa with the unique dress, lyrics, and steps. Bonkor is derived from the word Bonchoe – Bon religion. It is being performed once every three years. Usually it is celebrated on the 17th or 18th day of the 9th month of the Bhutanese calendar depending on the auspiciousness of the day. The next celebration would be in the year 2024. Bonko is a kind of festival and is performed by this particular village to appease the local deities for the wellbeing of the community. Bji Gewog has many villages but no other village has Bonkor festival. Other places in Haa have their own Bonkor festival. Ap Chundu is the main local deity of Haaps (The people of Haa). It is said that this festival is being practiced and performed since Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel’s time. However, no one could tell the exact date and the year of its beginning. The festival has the trend and is only being performed by the locals whose cast is considered to be rich and renowned. The people who get married and are settled here in the village are not entertained to participate or perform the festival taking the risk of bad happenings.
Bhutan
ICH Materials 26
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Doppidozlik(Skullcap embroidery)
Skullcap embroidery was developed among Iranian and Turkic peo¬ples since ancient times. Skullcaps make up part of the national dresses of the peoples of Turke¬stan, especially of Uz¬beks and Tajiks. They differ in terms of form and décor from one na¬tion to another. The traditions of their creation are also different. nFor sewing skullcap a piece of material is cut out from single-colored silk or satin, embroidered by using simple, silk and gold threads. Parts of skull¬cap, decorated with fan¬cywork, are put on lining and sewed to each other. The edges are decorated with braids. Depending on the style, skullcaps can be quadrangular or cone-shaped. Skullcaps especially are made by women.n
Uzbekistan -
Doppidozlik(Skullcap embroidery)
Skullcap embroidery was developed among Iranian and Turkic peo¬ples since ancient times. Skullcaps make up part of the national dresses of the peoples of Turke¬stan, especially of Uz¬beks and Tajiks. They differ in terms of form and décor from one na¬tion to another. The traditions of their creation are also different. nFor sewing skullcap a piece of material is cut out from single-colored silk or satin, embroidered by using simple, silk and gold threads. Parts of skull¬cap, decorated with fan¬cywork, are put on lining and sewed to each other. The edges are decorated with braids. Depending on the style, skullcaps can be quadrangular or cone-shaped. Skullcaps especially are made by women.n
Uzbekistan
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TAJIK EMBROIDERYEmbroidery is an ancient decorative and applied art of the Tajiks that is used for decorating dresses and homes. In the Tajik language, embroidery is gulduzi, which is understood as the process of using colorful threads to sew ornaments, flower images, and symbolic drawings on cotton or silk fabrics. Tajik embroidery practitioners are women. Embroidery art masters sew women’s shirts, men’s and women’s national caps, pillows, bedspreads, headscarves, towels, curtains, cradle coverlets, and wall decorations, known locally as suzani.Year2018NationSouth Korea
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The Art of Embroidery: Subregional Networking on Multinational NominationThe art of embroidery is one of the ancient traditions of applied and decorative arts in Central Asia. The uniqueness and beauty of Central Asian embroidery, the abundance and diversity of its ornaments and techniques testify to the rich traditions of this art. Embroidery is widespread mainly in trade and handicraft cities and large villages along the Silk Roads in Central Asia. Each existing traditional schools have a unique symbol, style and color balance based on local knowledge and social practices.\n\nEmbroidery is common activity among women in Central Asia. Traditionally, women and girls embroider individually and in groups. Embroidery is passed down from generation to generation, mainly from mother to daughter, in the form of master-apprentice schools. Indigenous population in Central Asia wear embroidered items, it serves as a symbol of their devotion to their homeland and culture. It is especially found at craft fairs, festivals, contests, weddings and social festivities.\n\nNetworking on elaboration of the multinational nomination “The Art of Embroidery” in Central Asia was initiated by the NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan (“Umrboqiy Meros”) in May 2019. Main objectives of the networking were to strengthen collaboration among scholars and artisans in Central Asia and to promote joint safeguarding activities by inventory of traditional schools on art of embroidery in Central Asia.\n\nAd hoc working group has been created, which consisted of representatives from ICH stakeholders (governmental and non-governmental organizations, artisans and scholars) from Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Offline and online meetings of the working group were organized from May 2019 to March 2020 on the monthly basis. In every meeting experts exchanged views on current status, development perspectives and safeguarding challenges of the art of embroidery in their countries.\n\nIt has been observed that element is practiced and transmitted almost in all the regions of three countries: Uzbekistan (especially in the centers of artistic embroidery such as Djizak, Fergana, Namangan, Nukus, Nurata, Bukhara, Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Urgut, Tashkent, as well as other rural areas), Tajikistan(mostly in Dushanbe, Khujand, Kulob, Istaravshan, Bokhtar, Panjakent, Hisar, Gharm, Darvaz, Khorogh, as well as other cities and regional centres) and Kazakhstan (Eastern/Altay, South-Eastern/Almaty and Nothern/Mangystau and since last century in Western parts of the country). Annually, traditional textile festivals in Central Asia are being organized in Kazakhstan (“Korpefest”, “Kazakhstan oneri”, “Altyn sapa”), Uzbekistan (“Atlas Bayrami”, “Silk and Spices”, “Altin Kul”, “Raks Sekhri”, “Boysun Bahori”) and Tajikistan (“Diyori husn”, “Taronai Chakan”, “Idi Atlas”), where many masters from these countries and also from various regions of Central Asia participate and display their handmade art products. This kind of cultural events are proper places for exchanging knowledge and establishing dialogue among societies, groups and individual masters.\n\nThe multinational nomination “Traditional embroidery of Central Asia” was successfully completed and submitted to the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris in March 2020 by the National Commission of Uzbekistan for UNESCO. The nomination will be examined by the ICH Intergovernmental Committee in 2022.\n\nAs follow up activity, following institutional members of the working group became coordinators for ICHCAP/IICAS Survey Project on Silk Roads Handicrafts Workshops, which was started in July 2021: Kazakhstan National Committee for the Safeguarding of the ICH, Institute of Culture and Information of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tajikistan and NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan.\n\nphoto : © Lutfiya MirzaevaYear2021NationCentral Asia