ALL
silk
ICH Elements 18
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Craftsmanship of hemmed appliqué
Zeegt naamal or hemmed appliqué is a complex of diverse needlework techniques and is one of the monumental forms of needlework in Mongolia. To create hemmed appliqué, two black-and-white versions of design are prepared, while one version is cut out in detail and the other is painted with different colours. Carefully marking the details such as borders, lines and ornaments on the draft, the various silks and textiles are prepared with different sizes, colours and features of the pattern draft and following with a starch applied to each part. The cut-out draft is pasted with folded edges on the material, employing careful attention and meticulous hands. The hemmed appliqué is a creation of a meticulous team work of embroiderers each of them mastered in different techniques.
Mongolia -
Chimseonjang (Needlework)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea Chimseonjang refers to the needlework skill use in making clothes and accessories, or to an artisan with such a skill. Perhaps, people started doing needlework in the prehistoric period. Metal needles similar to those of the present day have been found on sites of the Silla Period (37 BC – 935 AD). We can see that needlework developed to a considerable level during the Three Kingdoms Period (circa 57BC – 668 AD) based on murals in tombs of Goguryeo and on Samguk sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms). It continued to develop during the Goryeo (877 – 1394) and Joseon (1392 – 1910) Periods. Needlework is mostly done with cotton thread on silk, cotton, ramie, and hemp fabrics. The type of thread to be used is selected depending on the quality, color, and thickness of the cloth to be worked on. In olden days, needlework used to be an essential skill for women. There was even a sewing room in the Royal Palace.
South Korea -
Hwahyejang (Shoe Making)
National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea Hwahyejang refers to a craftsman skilled in the art of making traditional Korean shoes. It is a compound word consisting of “hwajang,” a person who made hwa (long-necked shoes), and “hyejang,” a person who made hye, or shoes that did not cover the ankles. According to Gyeongguk daejeon (National Code) published in the Joseon Dynasty, the demand for shoes was so high that there were 16 hwajang and 14 hyejang affiliated with the central government office. This record also shows the separation of the two specialties. Hye are made by pasting several layers of cotton or ramie cloth onto the cotton lining and covering them with silk to make the outer rim. This is then sewn onto the sole made of leather. It is important to maintain balance to prevent the tip of the shoes from twisting. The shoes were finished off by shaping them with wooden lasts. Since traditional shoes were mostly made of leather, their manufacture involved numerous different processes and consequently called for a high level of skill. Many records from the Joseon Dynasty mention shoe craftsmen and shoe-related matters, giving us an idea of life at that time. For this reason, the art of shoe making is historically important and worthy of academic study.
South Korea -
Traditional craftsmanship of zodog and shuudag (wrestling costume)
One of the uniqueness of Mongolian wrestling is wrestling costumes which consist of a hat, zodog (jacket), shuudag (briefs), boots, stockings and boots’ bindings. Zodog (jacket) and shuudag (brief) are a traditional costume of Mongolian wrestlers. The costimes made of silk, textiles and stitched with pliable and strong threads afford a wrestler the ability to hold his opponent during the wrestling bout. Zodog and shuudag adapt themselves to the shape of wrestler’s brawny body. This tight costume greatly affords a wrestler’s comfort to move as well. Only a few specialized masters craft the zodog and shuudag by their hands.
Mongolia
ICH Materials 64
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Craftsmanship of hemmed appliqué
Zeegt naamal or hemmed appliqué is a complex of diverse needlework techniques and is one of the monumental forms of needlework in Mongolia. To create hemmed appliqué, two black-and-white versions of design are prepared, while one version is cut out in detail and the other is painted with different colours. Carefully marking the details such as borders, lines and ornaments on the draft, the various silks and textiles are prepared with different sizes, colours and features of the pattern draft and following with a starch applied to each part. The cut-out draft is pasted with folded edges on the material, employing careful attention and meticulous hands. The hemmed appliqué is a creation of a meticulous team work of embroiderers each of them mastered in different techniques.
Mongolia -
Craftsmanship of hemmed appliqué
Zeegt naamal or hemmed appliqué is a complex of diverse needlework techniques and is one of the monumental forms of needlework in Mongolia. To create hemmed appliqué, two black-and-white versions of design are prepared, while one version is cut out in detail and the other is painted with different colours. Carefully marking the details such as borders, lines and ornaments on the draft, the various silks and textiles are prepared with different sizes, colours and features of the pattern draft and following with a starch applied to each part. The cut-out draft is pasted with folded edges on the material, employing careful attention and meticulous hands. The hemmed appliqué is a creation of a meticulous team work of embroiderers each of them mastered in different techniques.
Mongolia
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Silk Roads ICH Survey Report – Festivals
This survey report was conducted as part of the effort to identify the status of ICH festivals across the Silk Road region and further identify the challenges that should be resolved with regard to each festive event. This report presents the findings of the survey concerning ICH festivals, which was carried out in 2020 on the governments and cultural institutions across Silk Road countries, including the Republic of Korea. The valid sample, consisting of 347 respondents from nine countries, were statistically analyzed and described herein.
Central Asia 2021 -
Silk Roads Living Heritage Network Launch Report
UNESCO-ICHCAP, with cooperation of the International Institute for Central Asian Studies(IICAS) and Korea-Central Asia Cooperation Forum Secretariat, organized the launching events of the Silk Roads Living Heritage Network (SLN) on October 28 and 29, at DDP, Seoul, and Online during Korea Foundation’s ‘Public Diplomacy Week. This publication contains about this event.\n\nThis networking program is based on experiences and achievements obtained from the collaborative work of UNESCO-ICHCAP in the living heritage field in Central Asia over the last decade.\n\nFor reference, the networking program comes on the heels of a three-party MoU signed by ICHCAP and organizations in Uzbekistan in 2019 and was followed by a Central Asia network meeting in Kazakhstan in 2019. In 2020, ICHCAP in cooperation with International Institute for Central Asian Studies (IICAS), conducted a survey project about ICH festivals along the Silk Roads, particularly with countries along the steppe route. Regarding the survey result, ICHCAP, IICAS and Korea-Central Asia Cooperation Forum Secretariat of the Korea Foundation (KF) held an online webinar and a strategic meeting to consider the need for realizing the multilateral values of Silk Roads-related cooperation.
South Korea 2021
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Mongolian Culture and HeritageThe culture of the Central Asian steppes expresses itself vividly in the lifestyle of traditional nomadic practices. Mongolian culture has been in practice in the nomadic life and the traditions surrounding the nomad’s home (ger). And it is present in religious celebrations, national festivals, art and crafts, music and dance, language and literature, which form the backbone of Mongolian intangible cultural heritage of Mongolia. Mongolia is filled with valuable cultural properties and intangible cultural heritage of humanity that have been kept or practiced for thousands of years.\n\nGer, Mongolian Traditional Dwelling\nThe traditional architecture of the Mongols differed strongly from that of the settled peoples of Asia and other continents. Centuries ago, there the ger, also known as a yurt, appeared. It still offers shelter to nomads in particular places in Central Asia. Its development and fundamental principles are determined by the specific features of the way of life of Mongol tribes, which made it necessary to evolve a light and collapsible structure to be used as a dwelling or for public functions.\n\nMongolian Language and Literature\nMongolian is the language of most of the Mongolian population and inner Mongolia. By origin, Mongolian is one of the Altaic family of languages, and the history of the Mongolian language is long and complicated. Significant literary work of early Mongolia includes The Secret History of the Mongols, which was published in 1228).\n\nMongolian Religion and Beliefs\nThe Mongols have practiced several religions, of which Shamanism and Buddhism were the most common. The faith in Mongolia is Buddhism, though the state and religion were separated during the socialist period, but with the transition to the parliamentary republic in the 1990s, there has been a general revival of faiths across the country\n\nMongolian Art and Crafts\nMongolian arts and crafts have been passed down across generations from the Paleolithic times to today, leaving behind deep impressions on all facets of life and conscious, aesthetic, and philosophical thinking. Highly developed Mongolian arts and crafts come from the second millennium BCE. The works included sculptured heads of wild animals with exaggerated features. Other items include knives, daggers, and other items of practical and religious use.\n\nMongolian Music and Dance\nMusic is an integral part of Mongolian culture. Among Mongolia’s unique contributions to the world’s musical culture are the long songs, overtone singing, and morin khuur (the horse-headed fiddle). The music of Mongolia is also rich with varieties related to the various ethnic groups of the country. Among the most popular forms of modern music in Mongolia are Western pop and rock genres and the mass songs written by contemporary authors in the form of folk songs.\n\nHorse Culture of Mongolia\nIt is famously known that horses play a large role in the Mongols’ daily and national lives. Common sayings are, “A Mongol without a horse is like a bird without wings,” and “Mongols are born on horseback” these are arguably true words. Even today, horse-based culture is still practiced by nomadic Mongolians.\n\nVisit https://www.toursmongolia.com/tours for additional information about Mongolian culture.\n\nPhoto 1 : Prairie meadow grass inner Mongolia traditional clothing © Batzaya Choijiljav\nPhoto 2~7 : © Batzaya ChoijiljavYear2020NationMongolia
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The Art of Embroidery: Subregional Networking on Multinational NominationThe art of embroidery is one of the ancient traditions of applied and decorative arts in Central Asia. The uniqueness and beauty of Central Asian embroidery, the abundance and diversity of its ornaments and techniques testify to the rich traditions of this art. Embroidery is widespread mainly in trade and handicraft cities and large villages along the Silk Roads in Central Asia. Each existing traditional schools have a unique symbol, style and color balance based on local knowledge and social practices.\n\nEmbroidery is common activity among women in Central Asia. Traditionally, women and girls embroider individually and in groups. Embroidery is passed down from generation to generation, mainly from mother to daughter, in the form of master-apprentice schools. Indigenous population in Central Asia wear embroidered items, it serves as a symbol of their devotion to their homeland and culture. It is especially found at craft fairs, festivals, contests, weddings and social festivities.\n\nNetworking on elaboration of the multinational nomination “The Art of Embroidery” in Central Asia was initiated by the NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan (“Umrboqiy Meros”) in May 2019. Main objectives of the networking were to strengthen collaboration among scholars and artisans in Central Asia and to promote joint safeguarding activities by inventory of traditional schools on art of embroidery in Central Asia.\n\nAd hoc working group has been created, which consisted of representatives from ICH stakeholders (governmental and non-governmental organizations, artisans and scholars) from Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Offline and online meetings of the working group were organized from May 2019 to March 2020 on the monthly basis. In every meeting experts exchanged views on current status, development perspectives and safeguarding challenges of the art of embroidery in their countries.\n\nIt has been observed that element is practiced and transmitted almost in all the regions of three countries: Uzbekistan (especially in the centers of artistic embroidery such as Djizak, Fergana, Namangan, Nukus, Nurata, Bukhara, Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Urgut, Tashkent, as well as other rural areas), Tajikistan(mostly in Dushanbe, Khujand, Kulob, Istaravshan, Bokhtar, Panjakent, Hisar, Gharm, Darvaz, Khorogh, as well as other cities and regional centres) and Kazakhstan (Eastern/Altay, South-Eastern/Almaty and Nothern/Mangystau and since last century in Western parts of the country). Annually, traditional textile festivals in Central Asia are being organized in Kazakhstan (“Korpefest”, “Kazakhstan oneri”, “Altyn sapa”), Uzbekistan (“Atlas Bayrami”, “Silk and Spices”, “Altin Kul”, “Raks Sekhri”, “Boysun Bahori”) and Tajikistan (“Diyori husn”, “Taronai Chakan”, “Idi Atlas”), where many masters from these countries and also from various regions of Central Asia participate and display their handmade art products. This kind of cultural events are proper places for exchanging knowledge and establishing dialogue among societies, groups and individual masters.\n\nThe multinational nomination “Traditional embroidery of Central Asia” was successfully completed and submitted to the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris in March 2020 by the National Commission of Uzbekistan for UNESCO. The nomination will be examined by the ICH Intergovernmental Committee in 2022.\n\nAs follow up activity, following institutional members of the working group became coordinators for ICHCAP/IICAS Survey Project on Silk Roads Handicrafts Workshops, which was started in July 2021: Kazakhstan National Committee for the Safeguarding of the ICH, Institute of Culture and Information of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tajikistan and NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan.\n\nphoto : © Lutfiya MirzaevaYear2021NationCentral Asia