| Description |
[National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Republic of Korea]
Geumbakjang, or gold leaf imprinting, refers to a technique of applying decorative patterns on fabric with thin gold sheets.
Nowadays, women's traditional wedding costumes feature such patterns; in the Joseon Period (1392~1910), however, gold foil ornament was used only in the royal household. Few relics featuring gold foil patterns remain due to problems of preservation. A ceremonial robe worn by Princess Deokon (1822~1844), the third daughter of King Sunjo of the Joseon Dynasty, is decorated with the gold leaf Chinese characters “壽” and “福,” symbolizing “longevity" and "happiness," respectively. This robe is designated as National Folklore Cultural Heritage. Gold foil designs are produced by stamping the glued surface of a pattern block onto fabric, pressing thin gold sheets against the glued patterns before they dry, and removing the leftover sheet outside the patterns.
An artisan of gold leaf imprinting has to master the skills needed at each of these stages, i.e., carving decorative patterns on wooden blocks, choosing and arranging patterns to suit the garment, understanding the properties of gold and glue, and processing them, all of which require extensive experience over a long period. Among these, preparing the gold sheets, or geumbak, requires great skill as well extensive labor.
In recognition of its value as an indigenous craft for producing gorgeous and dignified dresses in Korean style, gold leaf imprinting has been designated as an important intangible cultural heritage so that the tradition can be revived. |
