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Ak-kalpak craftsmanship, traditional knowledge and skills in making and wearing Kyrgyz men’s headwear marks_1
  • Manage No, Sortation, Country, Writer ,Date, Copyright
    Manage No EE00000073
    Country Kyrgyzstan
    ICH Domain Knowledge and practices about nature and the universe Traditional craft skills
    Address
    Throughout the entire territory of Kyrgyzstan, in all of the seven regions: Batken, Chui, Issyk-Kul, Jalalabad, Naryn, Osh and Talas.
    Year of Designation 2008
Description Ak-kalpak is a traditional Kyrgyz felt headwear. Kalpak is appreciated and worn by all men regardless of age and status. Kalpak is one of the most iconic and recognizable elements of the Kyrgyz culture. The word Ak has several connotations in Kyrgyz language. One of the meanings is “sacred”, “pure”. The kalpak’s shape has not changed in centuries because this shape symbolizes the heights of surrounding mountains and the purity of the folk spirit. There are many varieties of kalpak. Based on various techniques of felting, cutting and sewing, there are more than 80 types of kalpak. Almost all kalpaks have embroidery patterns on them. Each pattern has its own sacral meaning and history. Two varieties are most popular at the moment. One has one small cut in front and the other one, called Bakai kalpak, has two cuts on the sides. Bakai kalpak is worn by people of older age. Various colors on kalpak edges are used to symbolize the age of the kalpak owner, although these rules are not set in stone and there are many exceptions to this rule in everyday life. - Green edged kalpaks are for children. Young boys wore those kalpaks. Green is a color of youth and shows that they are at the beginning of their life paths. - Blue edge is a color for adolescents. This was the color for men over 20s. The color of sky symbolized maturing. - Brown edged kalpak was worn by men over 30 years old. Brown symbolized that the person already has a family and as a head of the family have accumulated enough life experience and is ready to serve the country. - A beige colored edge was worn by mature men over 40, when they could serve as an example for the younger generation. - Black edged kalpak was born by elderly men over 60. Black edge on a white felt symbolizes wisdom. An elderly widower wore a white kalpak with black felt edge. It meant that his kids allowed him to marry again. - The most honorable completely white kalpak was worn by wise elders. Such kalpak is given to acknowledge his leadership and authority.
Social and cultural significance Ak-kalpak craftsmanship has an important social and cultural significance for the craftswomen. While working together in workshop, the craftswomen share blessings, songs and stories about Ak-kalpak and its qualities. Such practice serves the function of transmitting cultural knowledge and experience across generations. It also unites and gives a sense of shared cultural identity based on common cultural heritage. It is also important that traditional handicraft becomes their lifelong vocation, which generates income and creates jobs for young women. Making Ak-kalpak is a creative process which requires deep understanding of the cultural context and the personal traits of the future owner of Ak-kalpak when selecting colors, embroidery patterns and types and styles of the fabric for Ak-kalpak edges. Thus, there is an invisible link that connects the person who makes Ak-kalpak with the one who wears it. Understanding person’s traits and status strengthens social and cultural ties between the craftswomen and Ak-kalpak bearers. Ak-kalpak craftsmanship has always been highly respected in the society, which is reflected in traditions and language. For example, it is forbidden throw Ak-kalpak, play with it or drop on the ground. The proverb has it that the one who neglects Ak-kalpak disrespects oneself. Nowadays, Ak-kalpak is an indispensable part of official Kyrgyz outfit at various formal events. For example, Kyrgyz athletes wear Ak-kalpak at all international competitions and events. Government officials solemnly receive Ak-kalpak when elected or appointed to office. The tradition of giving Ak-kalpak has become part of official state protocol in the independent Kyrgyz Republic.
Transmission method Traditional knowledge and skills for making Ak-kalpak have been transmitted from generations to generations from mothers to daughters in the craftswomen communities. Such transmission safeguarded Ak-kalpaks functionality, that is protecting the head from heat in summer as well as wind and cold in winter. Ak-kalpak making knowledge and skills are acquired through hands-on training, demonstration, coaching, learning-by-doing and master-apprentice interaction. The learning process happens in the workshops during the Ak-kalpak making process. Experienced craftswomen ensure transmission of knowledge, skills, meanings and symbols to their apprentices. Training on making Ak-kalpak is also done in formal vocational schools, which have craftsmanship focus. Some elements of Ak-kalpak making such as cutting, sewing and embroidery are taught in schools at the arts and crafts lessons, extracurricular courses as well as Arts Faculties at the university level. Craftswomen communities also conduct joint workshops, meetings, demonstration sessions on a regular basis. They exchange experience, discuss various felting techniques as well as various methods for cutting, sewing and embroidery. Such meetings are usually open for the general public. As a rule, the eldest members of the family or a tribe teach not only about how to make and wear Ak-kalpak but also about its sacred meaning and symbolism.
Community Ak-kalpak craftsmanship community consists of women engaged in making the traditional men’s headwear Ak-kalpak. They are usually called Ak-kalpak craftswomen. For the most part, they are united into craftsmen workshops or public foundations, but there are also individual craftswomen. In a broader sense, the community also encompasses men of all ages that wear Ak-kalpak, as well as family and clan elders – both men and women – who possess the traditional knowledge about the symbolism, meaning and rules of wearing an Ak-kalpak. For all of these people, the element is part of their cultural identity.
Type of UNESCO List Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Incribed year in UNESCO List 2019
Keyword
Information source
National Commission of the Kyrgyz Republic for UNESCO
https://en.unesco.org/countries/kyrgyzstan/information

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