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Zardozlik (gold embroidery)
  • Manage No, Sortation, Country, Writer ,Date, Copyright
    Manage No EE00001091
    Country Uzbekistan
    ICH Domain Traditional craft skills
    Address
    Fergana valley, Bukhara, Samarkand, Tashkent regions
    Year of Designation 2012
Description Type of traditional embroidery which was widely spread in applied design art of Uzbekistan, Gold embroidery was revived at the middle of XXth Century. It's formation goes back to ancient history. At the end of the XIX – beginning of the ХХ century especially Bukhara was the center of crafts associated with gold embroidery. Notably, at that time gold embroidery was mostly dealt by men. But in some cases, when there were more orders than expected, women (who were close relatives of gold embroiderers) could act in the role of assistants. Bukhara gold embroiderers applied several methods of embroidering. These were: 1) "zardozi-zamindozi" – solid embroidering of the background with gold threads 2) "zardozi-guldozi" – embroidering based on design (image), which is cut out from paper 3) "zardozi-guldozi-zamindozi" – a combined method of embroidering, which unites the above-mentioned two methods 4) "zardozi-berishimdozi" –combined embroidering 5) "zardozi-pulakchadozi" –gold embroidering with spangles. Ornamentation in gold embroidery was predominantly of vegetative nature. Geometric patterns were used less often. Main motifs were rosettes, palmettes, bushes, trees, branches, flowerpots with flowers, almonds, pomegranates, cherries and grapes. Usage of certain vegetative motifs, for example, of "guli-chinni" (chrysanthemum), "guli-qashqari" (Kashgar flower), testify to the fact that pictures of Chinese porcelain (since ancient times it was imported to Central Asia and was popular among elites of Bukhara in the XIX – beginning of the XX century), were borrowed and adapted by Bukhara gold embroiderers.
Social and cultural significance In the middle of the twentieth century, the content and nature of gold embroidery products changed. A gold embroidery factory was organized in Bukhara, which produced skullcaps, women's vests, shoes, elegant handbags decorated with gold and silver embroidery. Thanks to the descendants and students of the masters, the famous Bukhara gold embroidery has not lost its uniqueness until our time. In recent decades, the popularity of gold embroidery has revived. An indispensable gift for the anniversary is a bathrobe with gold embroidery. For the Sunnat Toy holiday, the boy is dressed in a miniature robe embroidered with gold. Girls wear golden Bukhara skullcaps and vests with pleasure. Fashionistas attach elegant velvet handbags with gold ornaments to evening dresses. And the gold embroidery is the best souvenir from Uzbekistan. If the Bukhara gold embroiderers, despite all the historical cataclysms, were able to preserve their traditional craft, but the Samarkand school almost lost its significance by the middle of the 20th century, and only today the old craft of gold embroidery in the "gulduzlik" style has been revived there. Some families of hereditary gold embroiderers have recently moved to Tashkent. And now at the largest city market "Eski Juva" in a huge pavilion you can buy real Zardoz products. Well, in Bukhara and Samarkand, gold embroidery occupies an honorable place in the shopping arcade at local bazaars, where not only dressing gowns are on sale, but also prayer rugs, skullcaps and vests, cases, fancy wallets and handbags, traditional fans. Golden patterns of Bukhara craftsmen adorn the expositions of museums in Uzbekistan, are kept in museums of foreign countries. Bukhara zardozes are indispensable participants in international exhibitions.
Transmission method Comprehensive transmission of knowledge and skills related with element is taking place on the basis of traditional non-formal learning method Usto-Shogird (“Master-Apprentice”) and/or within formal educational programme in specialized educational establishments (hobby groups, handicraft colleges and etc.) Traditional method of transmission covers direct participation of the apprentice as assistant to the bearer.
Community Small enterprices in Bukhara, Namangan, Ferghana, Tashkent, Samarkand cities
Keyword
Information source
Republican Scientific-Methodical Center for Organization of Culture Institutions Activity
http://www.folklore.uz

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