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Although the boot making craft (Lhamzo) is quite old in Bhutan, its origin is difficult to trace. The traditional knee length boots are made from leather using threads made from yak hair. Today, the boots are made of both leather and cloth, which is hand stitched (lagtshem) and embroidered with colourful patterns. The traditional boots come in different colour patterns to denote the ranks of officials. It is mostly worn during the official functions. This dying art has now been revived with the government’s prerequisite for all the officials having to wear tsho lham when attending official functions.
Bhutan’s traditional footwear is a kind of boot worn as high as the knee, the upper, cloth part of which is then held and tied by a narrow strap below the knee. Dra-lham, thru-lham karchung and tshoglham are three different types of traditional footwear and form an important part of Bhutanese national costume. Dra-lham are worn by the senior monks in the monasteries. They are similar to tshoglham but red in colour. Thru-lham karchung derives its name from the white colour of the ben (section just above the ankle) which is highly visible from a distance. The traditional boot worn by the general public is called tshoglham.
The thil or sole of the boot used to be made from hard leather, but these days tshoglham usually have rubber soles. Above the sole, two layers of red and white leather (or rubber) make the drilden. Above the drilden is the ri karchu, on which comes the ben in different colours. The ben, is yellow, orange, red, blue or green according to the official position of the wearer. Yellow ben is reserved only for the king and the head abbot (the Je Khenpo); orange is for ministers, red is for senior officials, blue is for members of parliament (both houses) and green is for the general public. The cloth part above the ben is generally black or blue silk brocade.
It is mandatory to wear thru-lham or tshoglham as a part of formal national dress during any formal occasions.
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