| Description |
Art metal processing works made by masters found in museum funds of Kyrgyzstan and those that are passed from generation to generation shows that the Kyrgyz possessed metal processing techniques from the ancient times. The Kyrgyz metalwork masters are named as ‘usta’ or ‘zergher’. Distinct features of different techniques of metalworking can be observed in the works of the Kyrgyz masters, such as forging, molding, appliqueing, notching metal with silver, engraving, minting, pattern plating, pelleting, fretwork and black finishing. Silver is the most common metal used by the Kyrgyz. Masterpieces distinct to the Kyrgyz jewelry making have been created with a help of simple tools used in metalworking. The kit of jeweler’s main instruments included an anvil, hammers for different purposes, dies, stamps, chisels, puncheons, mandrels, cutters, poin-tools, etc.
Motives of the ornaments used in jewelry and metal works are very diverse. Of a particular interest are the Kyrgyz traditions of metalworking expressed in details of the horse equipment. They are richly decorated with metal braces covering joints of belts made by embossing technique and notching.
Kyrgyz jewelers broadly used the technique of denting, that is coating notched iron plates with silver. Such coated plates of different size and forms were then used to embellish harness elements, man’s belts, knives, fire stones, trunks, cases for dishes, etc. Quite often jewelry articles were framed with granules. This technique was primarily used in woman’s adornments, such as ear-rings, rings, seal-rings, bracelets, and etc. Like formerly, granulation was combined with filigreeing and incrustation.
Community of craftspeople metalworking was a purely masculine craft, but women zergers are also known.
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| Social and cultural significance |
Metalworking is one of the main types of traditional Kyrgyz crafts. At first, metal craftsmen served the household needs of the families and the needs of the nomadic economy, based on the functionality of metal objects. Later, however, attention began to be paid to the beauty and the artistic processing of the metal.
Masters in metal processing were highly respected and had an authority among the people. For a long time, jewellery had a ritual character and was sacred among the Kyrgyz people, it often served as a kind of talismans and amulets. Kyrgyz people believed in the healing power of silver, and so, tried to be closer to the nature with the help of precious metals and stones. Accordingly, pagan symbols of the sky, earth and water, various magical signs, images of animals and plants often can be seen on the Kyrgyz jewellery. Jewellery also showed the social status of a person.
Initially, the jewellery creations of the zergers were intended only for men. Metal products served as a distinctive sign of the clan, they endowed the young warrior with magical powers. They were usually fixed on the horse harness, on the leather belts and on the men's outfits in general. Later, women also began to tart themselves up. Kyrgyz women decorated their clothes with clasps and buttons of various shapes, triangular amulets, and patterned plaques. Depending on their age and social status, they used different decorations for different purposes.
Women's jewellery is an indispensable attribute of the traditional bridal dress. The ancient wedding headdress called shekulyo, which is a tall hat with a boning as a base, is usually lavishly bejewelled - it is often decorated with rows of stamped silver plates, coral threads and glass beads.
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| Transmission method |
Traditional knowledge related to the technique of metalworking and jewelry is inherited within the family and in the craftsmen communities. |
| Community |
Community of craftspeople, Public organization «Union of Jewelers and Entrepreneurs», Jewellery house "Kyrgyz Zerger".
Major Kyrgyz craftsmen of the past: Joldosh Matraimov, Kuluk Kulukeev.
Modern individual craftsmen: Sharshenaliev, Akmatov, Syrnev, Chentemirov.
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