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Traditional art of Jamdani weaving marks_1
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  • Manage No, Sortation, Country, Writer ,Date, Copyright
    Manage No EE00000049
    Country Bangladesh
    ICH Domain Traditional craft skills
    Address
    Bangladesh, located in South Asia between India and Myanmar, is divided administratively into seven divisions. It is in the Dhaka Division that the element has been practiced for centuries. Although Jamdani weaving ceased to exist in several locations with the passage of time, it survived with the emergence of new locations. At present Jamdani weaving prevails at Rupshi, Sonargaon and Siddhirganj. Rupshi, the heart of Jamdani weaving, is composed of two sections—Kazipara and Noapara. Rupshi is located in Rupganj Subdistrict, Sonargaon in Sonargaon Subdistrict, and Siddhirganj in Siddhirganj Subdistrict. Rupshi, Sonargaon and Siddhirganj are all located in Narayanganj District of the Dhaka Division. The weaving of Jamdani requires an ideal combination of temperature and humidity which is available in all the three locations because of their close proximity to the Shitalakshya River. The weaving units are located in the sprawling countryside of each location.
Description The art of Jamdani weaving is a time-consuming and labour-intensive form of fabric production by hand on a traditional loom built with wood and bamboo and with little use of metal. Jamdani weaving is based on the traditional knowledge and skills dating back to the fourth century BCE. The distinguishing hallmark of Jamdani weaving is that its designs are neither embroidered nor printed but created directly on the loom in the process of weaving. The product from this style of weaving is called Jamdani, a highly designed cotton fabric which owes its origin to Muslin, the finest and most transparent cotton cloth ever woven by human hand. Of classic beauty, Jamdani effectively combines intricacy of design with muted or vibrant colours. Jamdani is also a highly breathable cotton cloth which brings relief to its users in the hot and humid climatic condition of Bangladesh. The Jamdani weavers have remained in the weaving profession from generations to generations as a means of family livelihood. The element represents Bangladesh’s rich textile heritage, contains significant historic value and has been designated as a unique element of the intangible cultural heritage of the country. Jamdani weaving has survived and thrived due to growing popularity of Jamdani fabrics among Bengali women both at home and abroad. Almost the entire production of Jamdani is carried on in the form of sari, the principal dress of Bengali women. Sari is a long flowing piece of cloth, part of it wrapped around the waist, and the remaining climbs and flows over the shoulder. Women wear more charming or elaborately designed Jamdani saris during festivities and on formal occasions.
Social and cultural significance As Jamdani weaving is a collaborative undertaking, its practitioners are collectively a homogenous group with a sense of unity, identity and continuity. Today men as well as women are involved in Jamdani weaving. The increasing participation of women in the craft has played a significant role in the empowerment of women in present-day Bangladesh. The use of Jamdani saris by Bengali women provides a sense of cultural expression and social cohesion. The wearing of Jamdani saris is often linked to cultural practices and festivities as the Jamdani sari is considered to be the most representative of the highest aesthetic aspirations of a living tradition. In independent Bangladesh, Jamdani as one of the traditional and cultural elements has gathered an aura of nationalistic significance and is considered to be a cultural product rather than a commercial one. The Jamdani weavers believe that the Jamdani sari is a thing to weave with pride, and the users believe that wearing a Jamdani sari is a symbol of identity, dignity and self-recognition in the present-day Bangladesh society. The makers and the consumers of the element unite in social exchange of joy and harmonious bondage. This exchange frames discourse, stimulates thoughts, and provides direction for further enrichment of the element.
Transmission method The knowledge and skills related to Jamdani weaving have been passed down from generations to generations to the present time, which makes this craft an integral element of the family, of the weavers’ artistic expression, and of the country’s rich cultural heritage. The transmission of the weaving skills takes place primarily at the family level. Jamdani weaving is basically a home-based enterprise and the weaving skills are transmitted almost naturally to the sons and daughters who, since their childhood, see their parents weaving Jamdani. The knowledge and skills pertaining to Jamdani weaving are also transmitted on a community basis through the closely-knit community life of the weavers who meet at weekly Jamdani bazaar to sell their produces and discuss various aspects of their production and trade. The demand for Jamdani saris has increased substantially as a result of organized marketing drive and promotional activities undertaken by the practitioners themselves. On the other hand, the entrepreneurs have identified some Master Weavers from Rupshi, Sonargaon and Siddhirganj to train new weavers more intensely. This training of the new weavers takes place in some weaving units of those three locations. In spite of the efforts made by some wholesale buyers of Jamdani fabrics to spread Jamdani weaving to some other locations, it has remained localized in the weaving families of Rupshi, Sonargaon and Siddhirganj, and its transmission continues to take place from fathers to sons or from mothers to daughters at the family level rather than through formal training centres.
Community The traditional weaving process of Jamdani fabric involves a number of stakeholders directly or indirectly:nThe practitioners of the traditional art of Jamdani weaving are composed of more than 5,000 crafts people and the apprentices (the family members who are learning the craft). The crafts people comprise the weavers (about 4,000) and the helpers (about 1,000).The latter are involved in the preparation of the raw materials for Jamdani weaving. Among the weavers, a handful of Master Weavers play the key role in the traditional art of Jamdani weaving because of their long experience, exceptional skills and enormous knowledge of designing Jamdani. The practitioners are collectively known as the Jamdani Shilpa Community. A group of entrepreneurs and the National Crafts Council are involved in the promotion of Jamdani weaving. These stakeholders, located in the capital city of Dhaka, maintain their link with the weavers through their show rooms and supply network.
Type of UNESCO List Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Incribed year in UNESCO List 2013

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