| Description |
Ama Jomo is the local protectress of Merak and Sakteng communities but most of eastern Bhutan pay homage to this female deity. Ama Jomo is believed to be the manifestation of Jomo Remati, Palden Lhamo or Mahakali (one of the principal guardian of Bhutan). From the 21st day of the 7th month according to the Bhutanese calendar, people of Merak set off for their pilgrimage to Ama Jomo’s citadel, the sacred mountain of Jomo Kukhar or Jomo Phodrang (meaning citadel/palace of Jomo). This pilgrimage is called jomkora.
Laden with different items of tshog (offering items) composed of fruits and food items, areca nuts and betel leaves, people set off on the journey dressed in their best
attire. All the edibles taken on pilgrimage should be free of onion, garlic, egg, and pork, and all pilgrims making the journey should be free from contaminations such
as birth or death impurities. It is not just a pilgrimage; for the local people, it is also a time to make offering to Ama Jomo.
The pilgrimage is undertaken to thank the protectress as well as to renew their relationship with her for continued support. During the jomkora, religious ceremonies in honour of Ama Jomo are held in the temple. Men set off to the summit of the citadel and offer prayers. A sacred song dedicated to the Ama Jomo, called “Aemo Chilay”, is also sung only at this time.
Lyric of the song is as follows:
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
Crossing one mountain pass and yet another,
Having crossed the Gogo Pass.
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
At the Gogo La,
The stallion said he will not cross it.
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
On the white stallion,
Hang the jingling bells.
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
The one who resides on the three peaks,
The healthy Ama Jomo.
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
The gallant pawo reside on the right,
The gallant pamo reside on the left.
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
If circumambulated clockwise,
Defilements of the right side are cleansed.
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
If circumambulated anticlockwise,
Defilements of the left side are cleansed.
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
If circumambulated both ways,
Defilements of the body are cleansed.
How wonderful and auspicious it is!
On that journey, men take the opportunity to ride their best horses. Therefore, the pilgrimage also provides an occasion for horseracing, which is held at the place called Serkim La. Although there is no tradition of awarding prizes to the winners, any man falling off the horse or losing any belongings from his pack is subjected to fines.
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