| Description |
Tshemzo includes three forms of art - tailoring, embroidery and appliqué under one name. Tailoring involves stitching all kinds of garments while embroidery, which is called tshemdrub, and appliqué or lhemdrub are done for making thangka and thongdroel. According to Lam Nado (Druk Karpo, 1986), the art Embroidery called tshemdrub and appliqué was introduced in Bhutan by Drung Damcho Gyaltshen, secretary of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. He was not only a scholar but was also highly skilled in the art of Tshemzo. Later the art was widely spread by Penlop (Chieftain) Drakpa Jamtsho and Choeje (Nobility) Jamgon Ngawang Gyaltshen subsequently.
Tshemdrub involves working with thread and needle to produce designs while lhemdrub involves fixing the cut patches of either silk or brocade to produce bigger images. Monks normally practice the art of embroidery and appliqué.Monks produce large religious scrolls known as Thangkas that portray Buddhist deities and
saints. Seven different kinds of embroidery are practiced:
• Lhugtshem-light coloured embroidery
• Sitshem- the bold coloured embroidery
• Nyitshem- double-embroidery
• Chagthagtshem- Iron-chain embroidery
• Zurtshem- lining embroidery
• Dongtshem- front embroidery
• Chedtshem- outline embroidery
a. Sewing Traditional Garments:
Common practice among the people is lagtshem (hand sweing) or thrultshem (sewing by using a tailoring machine). These tailors are skilled at sewing the traditional Bhutanese garments. They stitch gho and kira, the national attires for men and women respectively. They also design and stitch tego and wonju (blouse) worn by Bhutanese women. Traditionally, lagtshem- to stitch costumes with bare hands using the thread and needles were practiced and were done mostly at home. Today,
however, with the advancement in technologies, tailors use modern sewing machines, which are more effective and carried out with much ease. |
| Social and cultural significance |
This art is mainly used for making Buddhist images of various saints, masters, bodhisattvas, gods, goddesses, protectors and deities. It usually revolves around Buddhist themes and is therefore considered a pious act. Sculptors practice this art with great devotion, believing that it will earn them merit. The clay figures can be found in almost all houses, temples and monasteries of Bhutan. Therefore, this art is also a lucrative business for the sculptors. |
