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Manage No DI00001080 Country Central Asia Author LUTFIYA MIRZAEVA Published Year 2021 Language English Copyright 
| Description | The art of embroidery is one of the ancient traditions of applied and decorative arts in Central Asia. The uniqueness and beauty of Central Asian embroidery, the abundance and diversity of its ornaments and techniques testify to the rich traditions of this art. Embroidery is widespread mainly in trade and handicraft cities and large villages along the Silk Roads in Central Asia. Each existing traditional schools have a unique symbol, style and color balance based on local knowledge and social practices. Embroidery is common activity among women in Central Asia. Traditionally, women and girls embroider individually and in groups. Embroidery is passed down from generation to generation, mainly from mother to daughter, in the form of master-apprentice schools. Indigenous population in Central Asia wear embroidered items, it serves as a symbol of their devotion to their homeland and culture. It is especially found at craft fairs, festivals, contests, weddings and social festivities. Networking on elaboration of the multinational nomination “The Art of Embroidery” in Central Asia was initiated by the NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan (“Umrboqiy Meros”) in May 2019. Main objectives of the networking were to strengthen collaboration among scholars and artisans in Central Asia and to promote joint safeguarding activities by inventory of traditional schools on art of embroidery in Central Asia. Ad hoc working group has been created, which consisted of representatives from ICH stakeholders (governmental and non-governmental organizations, artisans and scholars) from Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Offline and online meetings of the working group were organized from May 2019 to March 2020 on the monthly basis. In every meeting experts exchanged views on current status, development perspectives and safeguarding challenges of the art of embroidery in their countries. It has been observed that element is practiced and transmitted almost in all the regions of three countries: Uzbekistan (especially in the centers of artistic embroidery such as Djizak, Fergana, Namangan, Nukus, Nurata, Bukhara, Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Urgut, Tashkent, as well as other rural areas), Tajikistan(mostly in Dushanbe, Khujand, Kulob, Istaravshan, Bokhtar, Panjakent, Hisar, Gharm, Darvaz, Khorogh, as well as other cities and regional centres) and Kazakhstan (Eastern/Altay, South-Eastern/Almaty and Nothern/Mangystau and since last century in Western parts of the country). Annually, traditional textile festivals in Central Asia are being organized in Kazakhstan (“Korpefest”, “Kazakhstan oneri”, “Altyn sapa”), Uzbekistan (“Atlas Bayrami”, “Silk and Spices”, “Altin Kul”, “Raks Sekhri”, “Boysun Bahori”) and Tajikistan (“Diyori husn”, “Taronai Chakan”, “Idi Atlas”), where many masters from these countries and also from various regions of Central Asia participate and display their handmade art products. This kind of cultural events are proper places for exchanging knowledge and establishing dialogue among societies, groups and individual masters. The multinational nomination “Traditional embroidery of Central Asia” was successfully completed and submitted to the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris in March 2020 by the National Commission of Uzbekistan for UNESCO. The nomination will be examined by the ICH Intergovernmental Committee in 2022. As follow up activity, following institutional members of the working group became coordinators for ICHCAP/IICAS Survey Project on Silk Roads Handicrafts Workshops, which was started in July 2021: Kazakhstan National Committee for the Safeguarding of the ICH, Institute of Culture and Information of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tajikistan and NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan. photo : © Lutfiya Mirzaeva | ||
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EE00001091
Zardozlik (gold embroidery)
Type of traditional embroidery which was widely spread in applied design art of Uzbekistan, Gold embroidery was revived at the middle of XXth Century. It's formation goes back to ancient history. At the end of the XIX – beginning of the ХХ century especially Bukhara was the center of crafts associated with gold embroidery. Notably, at that time gold embroidery was mostly dealt by men. But in some cases, when there were more orders than expected, women (who were close relatives of gold embroiderers) could act in the role of assistants. Bukhara gold embroiderers applied several methods of embroidering. These were: 1) "zardozi-zamindozi" – solid embroidering of the background with gold threads 2) "zardozi-guldozi" – embroidering based on design (image), which is cut out from paper 3) "zardozi-guldozi-zamindozi" – a combined method of embroidering, which unites the above-mentioned two methods 4) "zardozi-berishimdozi" –combined embroidering 5) "zardozi-pulakchadozi" –gold embroidering with spangles. Ornamentation in gold embroidery was predominantly of vegetative nature. Geometric patterns were used less often. Main motifs were rosettes, palmettes, bushes, trees, branches, flowerpots with flowers, almonds, pomegranates, cherries and grapes. Usage of certain vegetative motifs, for example, of "guli-chinni" (chrysanthemum), "guli-qashqari" (Kashgar flower), testify to the fact that pictures of Chinese porcelain (since ancient times it was imported to Central Asia and was popular among elites of Bukhara in the XIX – beginning of the XX century), were borrowed and adapted by Bukhara gold embroiderers.
Uzbekistan -
EE00002046
Keste - Kazakh embroidery
Keste - traditional Kazakh hand-made embroidery with colored thread and needles or hooks (biz/ilgek/ilme) and hoop (kergish). A Kazakh word keste means 'a scheme or painting'. Direct analogues of colored woolen threads embroidery are found in artifacts of the Berel burial in East Kazakhstan, dating from the IV. BC. The embroidery is often made on velvet, plush, cloth, felt, velveteen, cotton and silk with woolen, cotton, silky, golden, silver threads and spun gold. Gimp, beads, coral, pearl beads, silver details are frequently applied. There are about 40 kinds of complex and simple Kazakh embroidery: biz keste - tambour embroidery created with a thin awl-hook; tizbek tigis, shyrash tigis, tyshkan iz, kұs izi (a “bird” seam) shynzhyr, shym keste (tight cover seam without gaps), koykusak, kigash, albyr keste (distichous seam) are the names and versions of tambour embroidery with needle; oraypek/oraypa is a kind of albyr keste; kebeke is a seam similar to Russian embroidery on canvas; zhorme, zhormeme, orys keste, aykas tigis is a cross-stitch embroidery; kereghe bas tigis is a “goat” seam. Baspa is a couched hemstitch technique and shyralzhyn is a simple one. A satin stitch with bedding bedel keste creates relief forms. A columnar seam zhormeu makes zigzag weave. The techniques can be used in combination. Embroidered products are made for domestic purposes and various ceremonies, which led to the species diversity. In festive men's and women's clothing: shapans, dresses koylek, flared skirts beldemshe, sleeveless jackets beshpet, hats, scarves oramal; in interior items: tablecloths, korzhyn etc.
Kazakhstan
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PI00006416
Nurota embroidery
Even though embroidery is widespread in different regions of Uzbekistan, Nurota embroidery is distinct with its peculiarity. Even at present, girls, who were born innNurota learn secrets of the embroidery, starting from the day they learnt how to handle a needle. Elegance, uniqueness of the patterns and flowers are thenfeatures that make Nurota embroidery exclusive. Embroidery art is passed in the family from mothers to daughters, fromnmothers-in-law to daughters-in-law. It is believed that dowry of Nurota brides should contain embroidery, sewed on the bride’s own. As mantlets and suzanas, hang on inside of the house, pillowcases and some outfits maynalso contain embroidery elements. In Nurota embroidery three types of embroiding are used: 1. Traditional direct method n2. Awl methodn3. Embroidery sewed in sewing-machine
Uzbekistan -
PI00006167
Kazakh Embroidery
Kun. Motif of the embroidery
Kazakhstan -
PI00006166
Kazakh Embroidery
Fragment of the embroidery
Kazakhstan -
PI00003196
Nurota embroidery
Even though embroidery is widespread in different regions of Uzbekistan, Nurota embroidery is distinct with its peculiarity. Even at present, girls, who were born innNurota learn secrets of the embroidery, starting from the day they learnt how to handle a needle. Elegance, uniqueness of the patterns and flowers are thenfeatures that make Nurota embroidery exclusive. Embroidery art is passed in the family from mothers to daughters, fromnmothers-in-law to daughters-in-law. It is believed that dowry of Nurota brides should contain embroidery, sewed on the bride’s own. As mantlets and suzanas, hang on inside of the house, pillowcases and some outfits maynalso contain embroidery elements. In Nurota embroidery three types of embroiding are used: 1. Traditional direct method n2. Awl methodn3. Embroidery sewed in sewing-machine
Uzbekistan
Videos
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VI00000082
Embroidery with Yellow-Golden Threads: The Artist
Muqarama Kayumova doesn’t speak about herself much, but she appears knowledgeable and understanding. As head of the Foundation of Craftsmen of Tajikistan, she is known as a designer and a participant of the festival movement of folk craftsmen. Her father, a Tajik originally from Samarqand, moved to Dushanbe when the republic of Tajikistan was formed. The family practiced golden embroidery, and the knowledge and skills were passed to children. Golden embroidery was a domestic hobby and the opportunity for Muqarama to create something to decorate an interior or a dress. In her workshop are awards, diplomas, and certificates recognizing her for her accomplishments and talents. Her finest pieces are in galleries and collections outside of Tajikistan. And whatever work is currently exhibited in her workshop will eventually leave as well. One of her rules is to create something necessary for people, something to decorate their lives. Knowing Muqarama means being introduced to the craftsman, the artist, the designer, the art-manager, the historian, and a person who is in love with her country.
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Tajikistan 2017 -
VI00000090
Suzaniduzi—Folk Embroidery
Embroidery a favorite hobby of Tajik women, being practiced in various forms and styles in different parts of Tajikistan. Suzaniduzi is a popular form of embroidered needlework. Initially, a naqsh (drawing) is outlined on cloth and later is embroidered with colorful thread, according to the taste of the embroiderer. Every suzaniduzi pattern has a specific meaning. Most naqsh are inspired by nature. The patterns have ceremonial significance, and that’s why most of them are prepared for brides and the house of newlywed couples.
00:40:00
Tajikistan 2017 -
VI00000041
Keste—Kazakh Embroidery on Various Materials
The video shows Kazakh keste (embroidery) an original Kazakh folk art and craft. According to experts, the word keste comes from an ancient Iranian word that can be literally translated as “painted”. Since ancient times almost every woman was engaged in embroidery. This art was inherited from mother to daughter. Masters embroidered on domestic canvases, leather, suede, and felt and on imported cloth, silk, cotton, and velvet. Also, experts distinguish the seam biz keste, performed by a conventional tambour seam with the help of a hook. Zeynelkhan Mukhamedzhan, the famous Kazakh artist and master of decorative and applied art, has been reviving this technique. Today, the artist passes his skills to students at the Almaty Art College.
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Kazakhstan 2017
