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Manage No DI00001080 Country Central Asia Author LUTFIYA MIRZAEVA Published Year 2021 Language English Copyright

Description | The art of embroidery is one of the ancient traditions of applied and decorative arts in Central Asia. The uniqueness and beauty of Central Asian embroidery, the abundance and diversity of its ornaments and techniques testify to the rich traditions of this art. Embroidery is widespread mainly in trade and handicraft cities and large villages along the Silk Roads in Central Asia. Each existing traditional schools have a unique symbol, style and color balance based on local knowledge and social practices. Embroidery is common activity among women in Central Asia. Traditionally, women and girls embroider individually and in groups. Embroidery is passed down from generation to generation, mainly from mother to daughter, in the form of master-apprentice schools. Indigenous population in Central Asia wear embroidered items, it serves as a symbol of their devotion to their homeland and culture. It is especially found at craft fairs, festivals, contests, weddings and social festivities. Networking on elaboration of the multinational nomination “The Art of Embroidery” in Central Asia was initiated by the NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan (“Umrboqiy Meros”) in May 2019. Main objectives of the networking were to strengthen collaboration among scholars and artisans in Central Asia and to promote joint safeguarding activities by inventory of traditional schools on art of embroidery in Central Asia. Ad hoc working group has been created, which consisted of representatives from ICH stakeholders (governmental and non-governmental organizations, artisans and scholars) from Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Offline and online meetings of the working group were organized from May 2019 to March 2020 on the monthly basis. In every meeting experts exchanged views on current status, development perspectives and safeguarding challenges of the art of embroidery in their countries. It has been observed that element is practiced and transmitted almost in all the regions of three countries: Uzbekistan (especially in the centers of artistic embroidery such as Djizak, Fergana, Namangan, Nukus, Nurata, Bukhara, Samarkand, Shakhrisabz, Urgut, Tashkent, as well as other rural areas), Tajikistan(mostly in Dushanbe, Khujand, Kulob, Istaravshan, Bokhtar, Panjakent, Hisar, Gharm, Darvaz, Khorogh, as well as other cities and regional centres) and Kazakhstan (Eastern/Altay, South-Eastern/Almaty and Nothern/Mangystau and since last century in Western parts of the country). Annually, traditional textile festivals in Central Asia are being organized in Kazakhstan (“Korpefest”, “Kazakhstan oneri”, “Altyn sapa”), Uzbekistan (“Atlas Bayrami”, “Silk and Spices”, “Altin Kul”, “Raks Sekhri”, “Boysun Bahori”) and Tajikistan (“Diyori husn”, “Taronai Chakan”, “Idi Atlas”), where many masters from these countries and also from various regions of Central Asia participate and display their handmade art products. This kind of cultural events are proper places for exchanging knowledge and establishing dialogue among societies, groups and individual masters. The multinational nomination “Traditional embroidery of Central Asia” was successfully completed and submitted to the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris in March 2020 by the National Commission of Uzbekistan for UNESCO. The nomination will be examined by the ICH Intergovernmental Committee in 2022. As follow up activity, following institutional members of the working group became coordinators for ICHCAP/IICAS Survey Project on Silk Roads Handicrafts Workshops, which was started in July 2021: Kazakhstan National Committee for the Safeguarding of the ICH, Institute of Culture and Information of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tajikistan and NGO “Living Heritage” of Uzbekistan. photo : © Lutfiya Mirzaeva |
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EE00001098
Embroidery art
Embroidery is a type of needlework. Beauty of Uzbek embroidery, ancient origins of its patterns and diversity of techniques applied indicate to the fact that this craft has passed a lengthy process of historical development, and has rich traditions. Large-sized decorative embroidery can be divided into several types: suzani (wall-mounted panels; literally - "needle"), nimsuzani (literally - "half of suzani"), ruyidjo, joypush yakkandoz and choyshab (bedspreads and bedsheets), takyanpush (pillow coverlet), oy-palak and gulkorpa (Tashkent versions of suzani), sandalipush (coverlet for sandal), zardevor, dorpech or kirpech (embroidery used for decorating upper parts of walls), joynamoz (prayer rug), bugdjoma (coverlet for blanket), beshikpush (coverlet for cradle), etc. Embroidered items of small size are represented by oyna-khalta and shona-khalta (sacks for keeping mirror and comb), qiyiqcha, miyonband, chorsu and belbogh (versions of men's waist kerchiefs), doppi (skullcap), sarpokkun, qoziqlungi and tanpokkun (long towels with embroidered ends), bugjoma (linen used for wrapping dress), sarandoz and romoli-peshonaband (types of head shawls and headdresses for women), dast romol (handkerchiefs), jiyak (embroidered edges used for decorating certain elements of a dress), etc. Ornamental pattern and composition of embroidery depended on its practical purpose (i.e. for what purposes it was used). Main embroidery motifs are symbols of cosmogonic origin (i.e. sun, moon, stars in the form of large and small rosettes), vegetative and geometric patterns, stylized images of animals and birds. For embroidery of Uzbekistan peculiar is application of distinct technique of sewing, i.e. complete sewing of large surfaces of the pattern, and leaving (relatively) small area for the background. Also, different types of one-sided satin-stitch and chain-stitch are used, which fill motifs of an ornament completely. Satin-stich can be of two types, i.e. "bosma" and "kanda-hayol". There are different types, patterns and traditions of embroidery, depending on their belonging to their respective regions: Bukhara, Fergana, Shakhrisabz, Nurata, Tashkent, Fergana, etc.
Uzbekistan -
EE00000047
Chakan, embroidery art in the Republic of Tajikistan
The art of chakan embroidery is a kind of sewing ornaments, image of flowers and symbolic drawings with colorful threads on cotton or silk fabrics. Chakan embroidery is used to decorate women’s shirts, pillows, bed spreads, head scarves, towels, curtains and coverlets for cradles. In the chakan embroidery art, there are symbolic depictions and mythological images related to the surrounded nature and cosmos, which express people’s wishes and hopes. Each ornament has special name and meaning, for example, pomegranate flower, willow leaves, almond, tulip, cockscomb, nightingale, peacock’s tail, moon, star, sun, cloud and so on. Process of chakan embroidery consists of selection of textile and threads, drawing ornaments, doing the needlepoint images, and sewing clothes. The threads were prepared in the past from cotton and silk fibers, and colored them with natural paints prepared with some kinds of plants and minerals. Now, chakan dress makers use fabric threads for needlework. In the Khatlon region chakan shirt is an important dress of brides. Every bride should have chakan embroidered curtain and pillows as well. Grooms during wedding ceremony will put on tāqi – the national skulp-cap with chakan embroidery. In houses of the Khatlon are hang chakan embroidered needlework curtains. During the traditional festival and holy days Tajik women and girls wear chakan dress. Musical folklore groups and dancing ensembles of Tajikistan widely use chakan embroidered dress in the scene. Annualy in Tajikistan are held festivals and competitions of traditional costumes titled "Jilvai chakan".
Tajikistan 2018
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Nurota embroidery
Even though embroidery is widespread in different regions of Uzbekistan, Nurota embroidery is distinct with its peculiarity. Even at present, girls, who were born innNurota learn secrets of the embroidery, starting from the day they learnt how to handle a needle. Elegance, uniqueness of the patterns and flowers are thenfeatures that make Nurota embroidery exclusive. Embroidery art is passed in the family from mothers to daughters, fromnmothers-in-law to daughters-in-law. It is believed that dowry of Nurota brides should contain embroidery, sewed on the bride’s own. As mantlets and suzanas, hang on inside of the house, pillowcases and some outfits maynalso contain embroidery elements. In Nurota embroidery three types of embroiding are used: 1. Traditional direct method n2. Awl methodn3. Embroidery sewed in sewing-machine
Uzbekistan -
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Kazakh Embroidery
Kun. Motif of the embroidery
Kazakhstan -
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Kazakh Embroidery
Fragment of the embroidery
Kazakhstan -
PI00003196
Nurota embroidery
Even though embroidery is widespread in different regions of Uzbekistan, Nurota embroidery is distinct with its peculiarity. Even at present, girls, who were born innNurota learn secrets of the embroidery, starting from the day they learnt how to handle a needle. Elegance, uniqueness of the patterns and flowers are thenfeatures that make Nurota embroidery exclusive. Embroidery art is passed in the family from mothers to daughters, fromnmothers-in-law to daughters-in-law. It is believed that dowry of Nurota brides should contain embroidery, sewed on the bride’s own. As mantlets and suzanas, hang on inside of the house, pillowcases and some outfits maynalso contain embroidery elements. In Nurota embroidery three types of embroiding are used: 1. Traditional direct method n2. Awl methodn3. Embroidery sewed in sewing-machine
Uzbekistan
Videos
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Embroidery with Yellow-Golden Threads: The Artist
Muqarama Kayumova doesn’t speak about herself much, but she appears knowledgeable and understanding. As head of the Foundation of Craftsmen of Tajikistan, she is known as a designer and a participant of the festival movement of folk craftsmen. Her father, a Tajik originally from Samarqand, moved to Dushanbe when the republic of Tajikistan was formed. The family practiced golden embroidery, and the knowledge and skills were passed to children. Golden embroidery was a domestic hobby and the opportunity for Muqarama to create something to decorate an interior or a dress. In her workshop are awards, diplomas, and certificates recognizing her for her accomplishments and talents. Her finest pieces are in galleries and collections outside of Tajikistan. And whatever work is currently exhibited in her workshop will eventually leave as well. One of her rules is to create something necessary for people, something to decorate their lives. Knowing Muqarama means being introduced to the craftsman, the artist, the designer, the art-manager, the historian, and a person who is in love with her country.
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Tajikistan 2017 -
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Suzaniduzi—Folk Embroidery
Embroidery a favorite hobby of Tajik women, being practiced in various forms and styles in different parts of Tajikistan. Suzaniduzi is a popular form of embroidered needlework. Initially, a naqsh (drawing) is outlined on cloth and later is embroidered with colorful thread, according to the taste of the embroiderer. Every suzaniduzi pattern has a specific meaning. Most naqsh are inspired by nature. The patterns have ceremonial significance, and that’s why most of them are prepared for brides and the house of newlywed couples.
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Tajikistan 2017 -
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Keste—Kazakh Embroidery on Various Materials
The video shows Kazakh keste (embroidery) an original Kazakh folk art and craft. According to experts, the word keste comes from an ancient Iranian word that can be literally translated as “painted”. Since ancient times almost every woman was engaged in embroidery. This art was inherited from mother to daughter. Masters embroidered on domestic canvases, leather, suede, and felt and on imported cloth, silk, cotton, and velvet. Also, experts distinguish the seam biz keste, performed by a conventional tambour seam with the help of a hook. Zeynelkhan Mukhamedzhan, the famous Kazakh artist and master of decorative and applied art, has been reviving this technique. Today, the artist passes his skills to students at the Almaty Art College.
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Kazakhstan 2017